SargeRX8

If you turn your headlights on, run your demister, turn your steering and pump your breaks all at the same time and the car doesn't die, you should be able to get away with it. Maybe the guy did clean it but maybe not properly or maybe he tried to adjust the spring on it and f**ked up the idle. Check your ECU see if it has the idle control dial thing. Clean the AAC your self put it back together and plug it in then tinker around with the idle control on the ECU. There's a guide on here somewhere.

Sounds like the car was in the hands of some nasty people, featuring a 3D printer making home made guns. Must be some pathetic wanna be thug life trailer trash asshole who can't get anywhere in life. I like numleg's idea above. Take the ECU out. Two mins to pull out and put in. Would have been awesome if the PFC had some sort of a setting which you could alter to kill the car with the hand controller and then pull the controller out when leaving the car. Hopefully after a little more snooping by the police they can find your wheels and turbos. Shit go but still good to hear its back.

Passenger side is a pain if you dont have the right tool. Its a security torx shape no idea on size.

Should I go genuine or aftermarket.

Just checked it this morning no oil seeping out. Started the car and about 10 mins in a fresh trail from the same screw and the half moon of the exhaust rocker. Gonna drop by ford spares see if the nissan chaps have anything in stock. Ill do both as id hate to pull it all apart again of the other gives way.

Taking off can be rough. It cant be ridden or else the it causes shuddering so you gotta push the rpm up. 3 years is awesome life span. How many km have you guys done in that time? Up hill in rain is terrible. In actual fact I avoid big up hills when its raining, mostly and especially car park ramps. Make sure you do bed the clutch in properly.

You tightened the bracket too far to begin with.

Awesome. Did you change the leaky side or both? I'm thinking of just doing the suspect leaky one.

My clutch was custom made. Keith from penrith clutch engineering built mine. I gave him figures he calculated and built it. How long do regular clutches last?

Yeah this guy told me its the best thing to go with before going twin plate and its popular with drifters. What he told me though that the torque figure is more important than the kw. I was expecting the car to produce 320rwkw and about 500nm torque. The shop told me its the power is fine and its capable of holding about 600nm of torque. I don't do drifting or anything but thats not to say the car hasn't seen some 1st gear launches and 2nd/3rd drops. Currently pushes 260. I also will say the clutch does not feel like a standard clutch in terms of pedal feel. My old exedy was heavier than this but this is also heavier than stock.

Hmm I payed 400 for my 5 puk carbotic clutch and its rated for pretty big power. Its still holding up after about 40000km. Ive heard they don't last as long as regular clutch material in standard cars. Do they give a life expectancy of their clutch?

It was something stupid I forgot. Like when I did my timing belt and forgot the cam seals. I took the belt off to change the cam seals but the gearbox is a pain in the arse to take off. Gonna get the rocker cover gasket ordered, change the moons and hope that fixes it. If only there was a way to see inside the box if there is oil in there.

Hey all Ive discovered an oil leak. When the car was in the drive way and I moved it out noticed a droplet on the floor no more than a drop or two at most, so I payed attention to the next spot I parked and noticed the same thing after an overnight park, a drop or two in the same spot. They are dripping from the front of the bellhousing on the gearbox. I tried to follow the leak but that is not possible. I did find a point of leak though, the last screw on the passenger side rocker cover, nearest the firewall, had a trail of oil coming out of it. A fresh wet trail. I wiped it up went for a drive and parked it. Next day same spot had a fresh new trail. I tightened up that screw as it was loose. Today noticed another fresh trail so I wiped it up degreased the bottom of the car and gonna see how long it takes for the drips to get down again. I can't see anything underneath the car. I can do a comp test to see if the headgasket is good but there are no other symptoms. I think the problem is either the rocker cover gasket, the half moon or the rear main seal which I stupidly f**king forgot to change when I did my clutch. Anyone able to suggest other points to check and how I can actually get a look? I tried wiping the half moon but all I got was black crud on the tissue and too hard to see oil so I cleaned it up and will wait til tomorrow.

Fueling I can adjust. Timing not so much as I am not sure of the safe points and there is no standard principle. I shall do what you suggest as it is the easiest way. Prior to this though ill try the aem 1v nb simulation and see if this does what I desire.

The only way I can learn is by understanding what is done and why it was done. From what I gather, this setting should not have been changed. I was just asking for the functions of these settings, how they affect the tune and why they would have been changed. Clearly the tuner who did the initial tune on my car was just trying to get their money for the least amount of work. Maybe if I learn and understand what all these settings mean, I can write my own tune from scratch. Maybe its not broken, but its certainly been bent out of shape, so rather than slap some paint over it, lets beat it back into shape then put the paint on.

I haven't loaded this tune yet, I'm going off current actual afr's and looked at another tune I found of a car with similar mods. I didn't make significant changes but what I tried to do was get everything flowing smoothly and evenly. I'll need to do some more logging see what cells are being hit the most during common, light use and work with those but overall I think if it blends in more evenly and consistantly, it should run smoother and there won't be such drastic changes in afr's when cruising.

It wouldn't be hard to drop the voltage but I think its more thsn just dropping it. I'd suspect it has to be scaled to 0 to 1v. Ive got a bung at home and should have my o2 sensor which is almost brand new so I'll try get it mated up. If fuel eco doesn't change much ill try do some leaning to the cruise charts. Ill upload a screenshot of the table ive worked on so far.

Aem. Just checked. Doesn't do simulation. I'll get another bung in.

Does that mean I need to move my wideband? Its sitting in the standard o2 sensor bung. Is there a way to use the wideband for o2 feedback?

Issues are with cruising. My wideband shows a pretty rich mix 12 to 13 cruising.. If I did want to start again would I be safe to use the current ignition table? Really have no problem with power its just the way it skulls down fuel and I am a pretty calm low rpm driver. Haven't had a chance to do any logging yet to see what's going on with air flow curves and load.

That BOV vents to atmosphere. The port on the inside is where the pressure goes in, BOV opens and you can see those holes machined into the BOV all the way around the neck of the BOV, out comes your air. Pretty innovative design.

Isn't what you said about altering the afm voltage about altering the air flow curve table? The air flow curve table lets you see the load point then alter the air flow voltage at that point. The part I'm picking on is the top part where you select the AFM you want and the numbers next to it. Everything Ive read said to leave those at default 100 when using the chosen AFM in the standard diameter housing.

I took this screenshot from the current tune in my car. After reading some online sources about power fc tuning, I recalled these settings and from what I have read, they should not have been changed. From what I know, these settings are used to alter the AFM calibration if it has been housed in a different sized tube to what it comes with standard. My car is running in the standard afm housing with 3" piping infront and to the turbo. According to what I have read, these settings should not have been changed. When I got this tuned the second time(the current tune), we didn't think to check this tab and it was only weeks after we had noticed it. Now its been a year later and I'm looking to try do some DIY tuning to help increase the fuel economy on my car and just eliminate some knock in the upper end. If I changed this back to default; 100 all the way down, will it throw out the tune, mainly the injector map? My car is a standard motor with the SS2 turbo and supporting mods with the Z32 AFM. Thanks all.

Your fuel pump is likely on its way out. Its an easy method to replace it. Unplug the fuel line from the pump and puy it into a bucket then start the car. If no or little fuel.comes out the pump is gone. Make sure the pump is getting power. Might be a fuse. They screw up because they wear out, seize, sick up dirt etc. Its an old compoment. Easy to fix.

Hey guys, last week i changed the suspension on my car. Under the pracel tray I found this thing and it was not plugged in. I know it wasn't plugged in because after I saw it I remembered that I was the one who unplugged it last time and forgot to plug it in. Ive been driving for a year without it and have no idea what it is. I plugged it back in and theres no difference. Anyone know what it is? I thought it was the HICAS ecu but the pics ive seen of a HICAS ecu show it to be bigger than this. Cheers.