SargeRX8

The new belt is abit longer, but the right length as per suggested here and in books for my car. I was running a belt off a different car which was 10 shorter than this one.

My deepest sockets aren't deep enough. I'm gonna apply tension to it as suggested to see if I can get some turns done by hand

The problem isn't testing tension its actually doing up that nut on the PS pump. The piece of shit is impossible.

Ok well after closer poking at the belts, AC and alternator seem nice and tight. Powersteering had I kid you not about 2cm of play in it if not more, and I know why. How the f**k do you fit any sort of tool in there to tension up the belt? That 12mm nut on that long ass theaded bolt gives you about 1mm of turn from top, bottom, side. You can't tighten it, I sat there for about 10 minutes, cut my hands open and got about 1 to 2 turns. Ive got a really long eco socket I think they call them(about 15cm long with 13mm one end 12mm the other). I jammed that in there and turned it as much as I could and it still doesn't feel tight enough. Anyone got any advice? I don't know how or why Nissan made the other two tensioners a piece of piss to work with and this third one decided to troll everyone. You made bro? f**k YEAH I AM PIECE OF SHIT.

Back in the day I used soap to cover it up. But since these are new belts they are squealing because I did something wrong. I'll tension them up tomorrow. I'll give them all some pressure see which one feels least ysioned then tighten it up. Cheers guys.

Hey guys, I just changed the 3 belts for AC PS and Alternator. The old ones were worn and not much left in them. I put the old ones on in the past and never had any noise issues. Now these new belts(Bando and Exebelt) give off a squeal on startup and only for about a second. No noise if I turn the wheel left and right, no noise from switch the AC on etc. I don't know which belt it is. Is the sqeual due to under tensioned belt, over tensioned belt or do I need to let the new belts set in?

Bando is a Japanese brand so its very probably they make the stuff for Nissan. I bought my bearings from Japan, cost me $140, belt was a gates $99, seals $40. Its a big job but not very hard at all. I can do it in about an hour, without removing the radiator.

I was driving the car as I always do, like a bitch. Then came to a point where it was necessary to hit some boost and get around some traffic, so I done so and all seemed fine. Then I pulled up at the light and my idle went rough as shit and I was leaning out to the point my ratios were 18.0+ I thought while driving that it can't be the AFM anymore and it seemed only to occur after I hit boost. So I pulled over and switched the car off, looked under the bonnet and didn't notice anything popped. Got my mrs to start the car for me while I was under the bonnet and my ears immediately heard the PSSSH sound you hear on an intake leak then I noticed the black rubber gasket between the plenum and runners was sticking out, I gave it a little touch and I could see the actual O openings and air was gushing in which was causing it to lean on idle. I loosened the manifold, jammed it back in with a screw driver, tightened it up and it seemed alot better but I could still hear the psssh from around the plenum so I thought it could be busted on the inner side too. Drove home, ordered the parts and pulled it all apart while I waited. Its running way too rich now, at points 10.5 on idle. After I fixed it, I took it for a drive and everything was fine on little load and little tiny boost. I then pushed it all the way, the power was there, the boost was nice and consistant, but then at about 6500rpm I see the engine light and hear a pop under the bonnet, then it idled weird and shut off on me. I thought I just destroyed my car, it was that fat hose that runs from the cross over pipe to the plenum, I forgot to clip the clamp thing back at the right place. Hopefully that ping reading was the noise of the pop pssh bang hose coming off. Its never pinged on me before on low boost and Ive already pulled out a fair bit of timing so it didn't ping on high boost.

To add to these symptoms, I also had a popped plenum chamber gasket(the one between the plenum and the runners). I took out the old gasket, cylinder 3 and 4 were egg shaped and when fitted in the car they were sticking out from inbetween the components causing a pretty big leak. Fixed all this up and now my idle is back to where it was. Seems fine now just a tad rich now after compensating for the leanness before lol. WARNING TO ALL: CHANGING THE PLENUM CHAMBER TO RUNNERS GASKET IS A f**kING JOB AND A HALF! Undoing the piece of shit took the best part of an hour and alot of cut fingers. Putting it back together and tightetning the bolts up, in the right order(and f**k me if I didn't tighten them enough!) IS ABSOLUTE HELL.

When I fiddled with settings related to fuel cut(raising the cut), my car would often pop pop pop when the revs drop in a gear. On occasions, you get the massive f**k off BOOM MOTHER f**kER that will scare most people. Ive got a 5" cat. It most certainly is tune related. If I drop my fuel cut back to standard, its not as noticeable in the lower RPM range. I think its quite awesome. My mates old GTIR would pop insanely. My old R33 would shoot flames, it had a gutted cat(which I honestly had no idea about). I wrapped my dump pipe up in some heat wrap and now when I drive the car with abit of oomph, these pops are certainly more persistant lol.

I don't think it has anything to do with the BOV's. I had the exact same problem with my old car. Boost would come on then flop then on then flop and you can hear it, the turbo sucking hard then backing off then sucking hard. Took it and shoved it on a dyno. It displayed pretty much what your boost plot shows, an oscillating line. In my car it was my boost controller setup incorrectly. It would come onto boost, hit the warning and because the warning(max boost) wasn't set right, it would open the gate and I would lose all pressure and turbine movement. It would then shut the actuator and do it all over again. Few moments of fiddling with the controller, we got a dead straight line. If you've got pod filters, you should be able to tell by the sound if it is your BOV's venting. If it just sounds like suction on, suction off, suction on, i'd say its your boost controller. Quick method to test it out is run actuator pressure and bypass the boost controller. If they don't hold enough boost to test properly, get a bleed valve and just set it up($25 just to set it out with) to what ever psi you want then see how it goes. Its really unlikely to have failing GTR BOV's, let alone SSQV's doing the same thing. I run 19psi through a stock GTST BOV...

The problem seems to have gone now, it seems more consistant(touching the wires now doesn't change anything). It runs leaner on idle(13.8 when cold and 15 when warm). If I can add fuel to make it a little richer, it will pull a little more vacuum and run smoother.

When we tuned it yeah, it was fine. Remember how I told you I changed the intake pipe and since then it was always coming close to stalling? I must have rooted something and it caused everything to run a little richer but never felt it was down on power. I'll give it some more fuel for comfort and see how it goes. I just read a few places and what you are saying seems true. I glued the AFM back together because it appears to be fine now, so incase this issue arrises again, ill strip it and resolder those 4 points and also get a new loom incase the it is the fault. Either that or if funds permit, ill go with a new ECU.

An interesting, and very stumbling observation. My car, as long as I have known, has always had idle control issues when coming off load into neutral such that the rpm will drop to about 500rpm then climb back up to their usual rpm. I thought this was normal... When my afm starts "failing" the car actually works much better. Coming off boost revs drop and hold properly at 750rpm. The ONLY issue is it seems to run leaner in this state. I am actually thinking my AFM wiring was dodgey before hand and now I have actually fixed the problem. If I give the car more fuel on idle, it will pull more vacuum, and be much more stable.. Actually sounds like this is a solution to a problem(almost stalling vs a lean idle(on boost is perfect, power delivery is perfect)). Going to hook up the FC Edit tomorrow and drop more fuel in on idle and if that brings the engine burble down and a smoother sounding idle, I may have well and truely fixed my never ending idle hunting issues. Maybe it wasn't necessary for me to make so many intake pipes due to my suspected reversion issues which could have been AFM wiring issues.

Hey all, been a while since Ive posted here. Having some issues when I'm idling and I think its AFM related. Its an intermittent issue, happens sometimes, then can go away for days then comes back. Anyway driving feels and seems fine, power on boost seems fine too. When I come to a stop the car will idle but seems to pull less vacuum than usual and my AFR gauge goes from the usual 12 on idle to about 17 and as you can imagine it feels really rough. Once you start moving or give the car a tiny bit of throttle, even while idling and stationary, the issue goes away, AFR's come back down to about 12 - 13. Its only when completely stopped and off the accelerator. I popped the bonnet open and the engine was running and just fiddling around with things I noticed when I jiggled the socket on the z32 afm the problem went away, jiggling it again and it came back. Jiggle again and it went. Seemed consistant enough. Today I stripped the wiring and checked all the harness joints, patched them up and taped them and started the car up. Still has the issue. I then read about dry solder joints. After cracking the AFM around the top cap, I finally got it off only to see perfect joints, none were loose, none were cracked, none were just touching. They were strong complete solders and rather than risk damaging it by heating it up unnecessarily I put it back together. Now while I wait for it to dry, I have been looking for a new loom, I suspect there may be some brittle wire close to the socket but am unsure. Questions to ask here, do these issues seem consistant with a AFM issue? The only thing I got is the fact that jiggling the wire will often rectify the problem. Just because I can't see(I also did use a little probe to poke at the joints to check their stiffness) dry solder joints, could those joints be a problem? Is it odd that it only occurs on idle? Should I just buy another known working AFM and loom? Cheers guys. If anyone here is in Sydney near Parramatta and can let me borrow an AFM for like a day, free bottle of smirnoff vodka.

I now use the stock pipe. It didn't line up anywhere near the BOV return on my intake pipe, so I cut it up at a certain point where it would angle down towards the return point in the intake pipe then used the rest of the rubber pipe to fill the gaps. I'm still using the same stuff for my oil breathers but they don't sit as close to the manifold as the BOV return did. Its funny, I had these 90 degree PVC couplings to create bends in the BOV return where I needed them. They lasted fine, except for the one ontop of the turbo, it shrunk and melted like a motherf**ker lol.

Fuel cost money, injectors cost money, the tune cost money, you will never make your money back lol but it definitely saves on the wallet. 380km from my last tank, still haven't got the warning light on. Thats with moderate to minor-aggressive driving.

My turbo came with a bent actuator rod.

It didn't melt for me, ran fine for months until I changed it.

The chap I bought them from was local. I paid $650 for the set if I recall correctly. Brand new in the boxes. I checked the packaging I got from him and he bought them for more from some performance place in QLD, I can't remember the name(a while ago now) it was sunny something or sun something performance something or rather. They are up and queensland. With these injectors and alot of boost, I get about 45 - 55% injector duty, so alot of headroom.

As per usual with all this kind of stuff, power wires to one side of the car, RCA to the other side. I suggest you remove the driver/passenger seats and rear seats. Makes life easier.

Ill reply to this since this is my thread. My car did this all the time, a few decks to it too(always on). Its shit, stupid, ugly and pointless. I now run the car without the antenna wired to go up and down(always down). Radio works perfect when I'm, well anywhere(under cover parking different story but meh). Honestly, disconnect the wire and see how it goes with it always down. That switch on your dash doesn't control a voltage or anything. It controls the motor for the antenna directly. The deck turns the antenna on, that switch tells the motor to either do a half way out antenna or whole way out. I think if you rewired the switch to turn it on and off, you will lose the half length full length antenna feature. Another option is a dedicated switch between the antenna power and the deck. On and off, this way you retain the standard skyline switch and don't f**k anything around.

I always thought hot dogs are used to reduce droning, not sound levels... My old nismo exhaust is piss quiet, it had two huge f**k off mufflers.

5 puk carbotic button clutch. Holds my power well with room for more. Cheap too.

When you run a larger turbo, like physically larger housings, the turbo won't so much be affected by the cooler. The ss2 isn't very much physically larger than stock. I'm comparison a 3071 is noticeably larger.