SargeRX8

I'm in need of some new pads. Although the Remsa pads are good for performance and appear to last, the dust is HORRIBLE. 30km of driving is enough to see dust start building up. Local shop recommends Bendix Ultimates but I know they aren't what I am after.

I just put some cheap rotala tyres on the front. The noise is horrible. Every bump sounds like someone is bouncing a tennis ball and they transmit a shit ton of road noise. Hankook evo s1 or something or rather i had on the fronts were much better but these were just a cheap option. I will be getting some rsrr for the rear.

How hard was the crossmember to change? Control arms are easy but supporting the engine and doing all this on the ground, under the car seems tricky. Mind you I've changed my clutch on jack stands so I can probably manage this. Yeah I wasn't too sure what to do with the alignment. I went to the shop and asked them to remove as much camber as possible to increase tyre life. The shop suggested against it but still did it for me. What should I ask for as ideal settings for a road car? I'll be back under the car next Sunday. 6 day working week.

If you remove them, the arms will not sit right. They will have nothing to sit flush against. Those look like aftermarket bushes too.

Use them. The new arms sit on the outside of the original bushes.

Parramatta, Sydney. I also need the guards rolled and more camber damn things bit into the tyres when entering drive way.

Thanks for the input. My mate is bringing his 33 around hopefully later today we can do some comparisons with mine and his. I had a look at mine I removed the castor rods and the holes look nice and round. It looks straight but then again as you suggest I need something to compare it to before I give it the tick. Visually there is no paint flaking or creases on it. These shops you are suggesting, what are they generally called? The only suspension places around me are Pedders and Jax... One of the garages down the road from me has a guy who is quite the genius when it comes to aligning and what not but I don't know if he is capable of doing what you are suggesting. I've attached 3 images. The holes on the LCA, the length of the LCA(pretty useless) and the area where all the contact is occurring. One thing I did notice was when I disconnected the castor rod, I could very easily wiggle the whole hub left and right. This is probably to be expected though since the castor rod holds everything in place. All the contact occurs when at right full lock with the outer edge of the tyre hitting the firewall.

Can I loosen bolts to check for excess play in the components and parts you specified? What do you mean by the upright? Is that the actual strut tower? It would be a mission for me to try straighten all this up. I hope tomorrow isn't raining, I get one day off a week and would really like to get under it and start doing some measurements. I installed adjustable camber arms to reduce camber, I think I'll plug the factory ones back in then, see if it eliminates play and also add the camber back and see if the wheels tuck in a little better. To add castor, do you shorten or extend the length of the castor rod? Would a damaged and crossmember give other symptoms such as vibration in the driving train? I don't think there is any vibration, but I would assume there may be some if the engine is sitting a degree out. If I loosen the bolts which hold the whole thing in place is there wiggle room for me to adjust or am I in need of a new subframe. This sounds like a huge job

I'm having some annoying problems and I'm weeding them out one by one. I got a new set of wheels for my car in 18x9 +15. They will sit on my 33 gts-t. I've got the fronts wrapped with 225/40/18 tyres and after installation I had issues with the tyres scrubbing that metal part of the body which protrudes quite a fair bit, the seam which joins the panels together(there are pics in this thread). So I did the only reasonable thing I could think of and bash the shit out of them until they were flat. I still have some scrubbing contact when throwing the weight of the car around, even lightly. My main concern was the edges cutting the tyre but now they're folded back so my main concern is why they touch on the left and not the right. This leads me to the second concern. It APPEARS that my driver side wheel sits too far back in the wheel well. Pics attached. Opinions? I've found quite a shitload of play in the whole hub assembly too, please refer to the video. I am confident this is due to the camber arms I just installed. Everything is tight and again only evident on the RHS of the car. The RHS of the car has never been hit but prior to me owning the car the front left took a beating and it was repaired(over gutter, panel damage, some arms were replaced, it was repairable). The thing is the left feels much more solid than the right. Could adjustable castor arms incorrectly set cause any issues like this? There appears no damage to the crossmember. Anybody able to shed some light? I really doubt I am the only skyline driver with this wheel configuration at the front. Its quite standard and not that large at all. My car sits 115mm at the lowest point on HSD coilovers. Any feedback on anything would be good(the play, the wheel touching, wheel being too far back). I'm uploading the video to youtube at the moment. The video shows play in assembly. https://youtu.be/0vbFKOsTkEg Here's a pic from my last alignment report.

Does anyone have issues with front wheels unable to full lock steer or touching the front most point of the side skirts in their 33? I don't know why but just looking at my car from the side, the wheels look to sit further back of the centre of the wheel arch...

Skyline model = R33 GTST Wheel diameter = 17 Wheel width = 8/9 Wheel offset =+40 Tyre size = 225/255 Modifications to fit = None Wheel: Inter Milano 17" Wheels On the other hand Skyline model = R33 GTST Wheel diameter = 18 Wheel width = 9/9 Wheel offset =+15 Tyre size = 225/40 245/45 Modifications to fit = Won't fit, hits side skirts, hits guards, hits everything. Need smaller profile. Wheel: D1R's Car isn't all that low either. I have 115mm clearance at the lowest point. I've gotta wrap the new wheels with 35 profile on the rear and can MAYBE get away wit 40's up front.

I've had a spark plug fail on me, one in 6 wouldn't fire and as such it fouled up. New plugs went in and away it went. I don't doubt that outside influence may cause rotors to get bad but sometimes it could also be a rotor issue. There was no issue prior to swapping to RDA rotors. I've read all the data from RDA when I was discussing this issue with Scott from RDA. I am happy to use the product, I'm not taking anything away from the product either but I don't appreciate companies who are always quick to blame other variables/components and never their own. Could it be something else on my car made the rotors go bad? Yes. Could it be bad rotors? Yes. I'll go get them surfaced tomorrow. I have new castor rods coming, I have new eyelet bushings. My wheel bearings seem solid. I'm also going to order new sway bar links and bushes. I might do a caliper rebuild and if this happens again, I'm taking them back to place of purchase. Its funny, the guys at RDA even tried blaming my pads. I'm not the first skyline driver to use Remsa pads.

Yeah the shudder did go but they're too thin to run anymore. I hit them with some sandpaper today to take some crap off the surface and will test drive tomorrow. I don't have a gauge and super cheap, repco and bunnings don't sell them, where can I buy one without having to wait two weeks online? I'll jiggle the wheel tomorrow with a bar. I thought a kingpin or wheel bearing issue would cause shudder while driving.

If you actually read what I wrote, these issues all came AFTER the shudder. Shuddering can and will cause excessive wear on other components in the suspension system. With that said, all of the other issues my car is now having will not cause the car to shudder under braking condition only. Put it simply the rotors are the issue for the shudder. My rotors and my mates rotors both fitted at roughly the same time are now shuddering. Two separate cars. I can put my old DBA rotors on and the shudder goes away.

I've ordered eyelet bushes for my HSD coilovers. I'm essentially on metal/metal contact. I quite likely need new radius rods as these are about 3 years old and have never been greased up since initial install(lol). What else should I look at at the front while I am there? Will shaggered sway bars cause clunking noises? It gets so bad at full lock sometimes it feels like my wheel is going to fall off sometimes there is that much play. I can't physically(by hand) put enough force to feel play but when the car pushes its weight on the corner, you know there is an issue. There could also be some bush walking going on there but again I don't know. I will order some hard race parts. I've just recently installed solid camber adjustable camber arms too which I had adjusted at the local shop. Fresh rego on the car I have about a grand I can throw on the front to rectify any issue and eliminate this shudder.

I've got those rose bush things up front, are they a bad idea? Should I go hardrace aftermarket or stick with factory and new bushes? I've got issues up front with worn bushes as I am having some severe clunking and clatter noises up front when reversing and going forward and turning. When at full lock too my left wheel is like thunk thunk thunk. I didn't think this could affect the rotors though since the rotors will be flush to the hub and the hub would be flush to the caliper etc. Mind you though, these clunking issues started after the vibration issue.

I have no reason to suspect my calipers are an issue, but I might as well service them. Going off what I've seen online there is a chance mine could be pitted simply because of the age.

I will try hit them with the wire brush my self. There is no burning or discolouration at all. They look pretty good. If this is no dice I will get them machined and see what the go in. In regards to brake rebuilding, from what I've seen there is usually a lot of wear to the piston it self. Would it still help to do a rebuild without changing the piston?

Prior to installing them, the hubs were cleaned with a wire brush and everything was good to go. When I installed them I checked runout and it was all within spec then everything was put back together. The wheels were torqued with a torque wrench, I never use air tools or electric tools to tighten wheels. Duncan, will machining them bring them true again or is it a bandaid fix for a faulty rotor or underlying issue? I'm thinking while I am at it I may as well rebuild my calipers if its an easy job. Does it matter if I use genuine/after market brake seal kits?

Hey all, My mate and I both have R33's so we bought some RDA slotted and dimpled rotors to replace worn out stock/dba parts. They settled in nicely but about 5 - 6 months later my set started developing a shudder when braking which feels like its coming from the front right. Its pretty violent slowing down from anything above 80 but happens down to as low as 40. My mates car is now doing the same thing. I would barely call my self an aggressive driver. I don't ride the brakes either. I've had skylines for the last 6 years and all cars had DBA's on them. This was the first time trying RDA out and I feel I made the wrong move. Has anyone else used these rotors and had issues or not had issues? I am using these with Remsa pads all round. Machining will get the surface true again but if the disc is warped, I'm better off just buying a new set of rotors. RDA give a warranty/guarantee but their customer support simply pushed all the blame on me, my car configuration, my driving style, everything me.

Does it miss, cough or splutter at the rev range or just lose power? What is your boost gauge showing? Is your BOV plumbed back?

I took my car to a shop. I am -2.5 degrees on the driver side rear wheel and -1.11 on the passenger side. There are no adjustments they could do to get the thing straight and they also ran out of time trying to find the cause. This is probably due to me adjusting my suspension height my self with a finger spacing though.

I use the stock regulator with my Nismo 740cc injectors. Pressure is fine.

Take the majority advice dude, ditch the Power FC and go for something a little more modern(adaptronic, haltech), go with the bigger injector. I use 740cc Nismo injectors which are great. I've also used the 555cc nismo injectors. I had no issues with either car idling with my Power FC. My 740cc crack about 60% injector duty cycle so I have headroom for E85 but I will be cutting it OH SO CLOSE. If you're gonna do it, plan it properly and do it right. I started modding my car years ago. Injectors have really come down in price and there are some more options for ECU's. The real pro's of a modern ECU are you can add inputs for mafless setups, flex fuel, other sensors etc. The pfc is a brilliant ecu but its outdated. A larger resolution can also give a tune far more detail and it can make the car feel just that much smoother. If I was building my car today from scratch, none of the parts I have in there now would be used. They're good for their time and back then more affordable than what is available now. I also was lucky, I picked up my nismo injectors pretty damn cheap. Even cheap for todays prices. They've got up since I bought them. With that said, I love my car

No buzzing or loose feeling on the up and down?