SargeRX8

My boost plot.

My car has had the intake side sorted out with proper 3 inch to the pod. I'm going back to get it tuned soon. My compression is good (155), exhaust is good (will do a dropped exhaust run), my intercooler is a nice big genuine hybrid cooler. Fingers crossed.

it's best to face down because is gravity that flows the oil. Use wd40 to help. When they get stuck, they get stuck good.

Jem build them, red r racing, matooks racing, rageb racing.

I run 13 to 14psi low boost(all actuator with some gain to keep the line flat). High boost is 18 to 19psi. I'll get you my dyno graph, low boost is perfect, high boost tapers of up top but this could potentially be changed with some settings or a boost controller capable of controlling boost at x rpm.

This wert work. Under vacuum you aren't going to get bubbles. He needs to pressurise the intake then soak the stuff. Failing fuel pump will make the car hard to start and will cause it to pop on boost and potentially even in low medium load without boost.

My ss2 with a 17psi actuator made 25psi. Got it swapped for a 10psi one which couldn't do 5psi. Got that swapped for another one which does 12psi. They are weird actuators.

Saw a white R34 at around 630am and a black R34 just after that on victoria raod.

You might have a hose which is spilt but not visible. Under boost the split will open, counted air will leak, engine will run rich and blow black smoke.

Sounds like the ticking is gasket related. Back when I didn't know much about skylines, my car had a ticking sound which drove me insane. It was the injectors and its normal. Ticking isn't bad, a knocking sound is always a concern.

Does this mean your dyno is ready???

Ive had my car hit R&R when the old shit boost controller decided not to work. It wouldn't splutter, you just instantly lose all power. It revs perfectly fine, but makes no power. Spluttering is the symptom of another issue.

f**king lucking it didn't touch the comp wheel.

Spitting and carrying on, you're either misfiring or lean popping. R&R will not cause splitting and sputtering. It pulls timing and pumps fuel. Misfiring will cause the car to spit, fart, splutter. Lean popping is the same kind of thing but you can distinguish lean pop from a misfire.

Permatex yeah, not pirtek f**k thats the hose fittings company lol. Yeah I used this red stuff on pins and parts of the shims, but put the red paste between the metal shims. Ill probably pull them out again and put this stuff everywhere.

Is that the pirtek branded stuff that comes in a two sachet kind of pack? I really don't know where the problem is. Some people use the QFM pads with no noise. I used to get noise from all 4's. After fitting in some of those Project Mu shims up front, I now only get noise from my rear passenger side. My wheel is spinning true and perfect, Ive put that red stuff everywhere I can, the grease stuff on all metal to metal points and still I get noise. It is certainly no where near as bad as before, its MUCH MUCH less now but it still happens.

Some guy on youtube also uses this method but he said try do it with a cool motor to reduce the chance of combustion under the bonnet. He also said that butane gas in a torch works better and is generally safer...

Remove your afm, block it with something with a port in it to blow air into then listen for leaks. You can blow cigarette smoke in there and look for smoke leaks.

His op said, new plugs out after a short drive. I really doubt that short drive is substantial time to darken the porcelain...

Next time I do my I change i'm going a little thicker with the Penrite stuff. Currently I use 10w 40. No noises but I feel, as said above, I need a thicker oil

Brake boost to compensate for lag

it's just a safe measure, 7 will stay cooler when the engine is running above standard measures. Lower the risk of pre ignition. Repco should have them, super shit won't.

If you looked at the first picture you will see they are bcpr6es plugs. I also may suggest you run 7 heat range plugs.

Wet coils will misfire, if you aren't misfiring, why would the could be an issue? I really don't that in that moment the spark is too weak to ignite the mix but not weak enough to blow out..

They look fine. Don't boost to the shop if you are worried.