SargeRX8

I don't know what an rsm is but you said the tacho shows a different, the wrong, reading compared to the rsm. This tells you the fault is directly with the tacho. Both of these components read directly from the ecu or the sensor on the box. Both displaying different outputs. If both displayed the same output but the output is wrong then the sensor is at fault. Sounds to me like intermittent failure which will one day fail completely inside the tacho... Maybe you can get lucky, clean the connectors at the back of the tacho, plug it in tight and see what happens. Check dry solder joints. Might be a capacitor or resistor failing.

Good to know this stuff. It seems logical to replace a $100 belt than risk a 5k engine.

I looked through the first ones store, he has alot of parts, alot of bulk parts for different other cars too. I would say he is legit. These people buy the parts cheaper in the US from wrecks and know they will sell quick on the net.

Mmmm I don't think car oil has the properties to ruin a timing belt... Its made of material much MUCH tougher than rubber and oil doesn't eat rubber. It should be fine. Someone should confirm this, I don't want to be wrong and then the belt breaks..

No idea what their name was. I looked through their store they had a shit load of import car parts and wrecks. The guy said it was genuine and guaranteed it with money back.

I bought mine from the US, from a guy selling bulk amounts. Haven't had an issue with it. If it concerns you too much, go brand new genuine.

If you used a fresh timing belt, you don't need a new one. You've done less than 250km on that belt, waste of money changing it. Its not like you change your pulley belts everytime you take one off to get to something else.

Pretty sure it can but if you've got everything connected exactly like stock, there is no reason this should be happening.

If he has an R34 it wont be the same. 21U I think is the R33 specific code. Most, if not all, part numbers for R33 specific parts are 21U. Even the turbo housing is stamped 21U.

It was in one thread about another problem, neat and tidy. I wasn't actually having a go at the guy, it just seemed the attitude he got from others wasn't helping. I don't know the answer to his second question and his first question isn't going to take a short response. It also isn't worded right, boost is not equal to power. Had I not said he was being trolled, or you guys didn't jump in on this, he probably would have believed his turbos are capable of safely pushing 45psi. Matter of the fact is, he was being trolled by other members, I merely warned him of it and why it was happening. To attempt to answer his questions; It all depends on what turbo you are running on your car. An example is if you were to run a GT3582r on your car and push 25psi. It may very well run nice and safe for a while and make some healthy power. If you got a bigger turbo, say a GT40, and ran 25psi off that turbo, chances are you will pop your engine. There is no direct figure. People often say don't set your self a PSI level, or a rwkw figure but I think setting a target rwkw figure can help you when searching for parts. If you want about 220 - 250rwkw with close to stock response you can get a highflow, injectors, ECU, exhaust, intercooler and AFM. Run about 14psi and she will be happy. My old highflow made 225rwkw on 13psi on a very conservative tune. With my setup, I should be pushing >300rwkw but the dyno shows otherwise. Its not all about boost, or one part in particular. Its all clock work. Every gear, every part, every component from the filter you run to the tip if your exhaust will affect the power you make. See when I'm not on my phone I can give a better response. As for your second question, those turbos will not handle 40psi safely. Free boost them, sure you might hit 40psi but....

I done my own, read properly, it's a piece of piss. Read properly. Read. Properly.

When you fitted your bov back, did you plumb it back properly and check there are no vacuum leaks? I'm going to guess you are on stock ecu. After you've made sure all your pipes are tight and plumbed properly, unplug your battery and let the car sit for about 30 minutes to naturally discharge everything in the car. Connect the battery give the car a few drives and let it adjust to the new conditions.

Through a straw.

Trollolololololololols This thread contains no useable information. You know why? Believe it or not, but since SAU started more than 7 years ago, this topic has been discussed before. Please use the search function in future. It may be found here: http://www.skylinesa...earch_in=forums While we understand that it can be frustrating to have your thread trolled - Please consider that other members may feel it to be disrespectful and selfish of you to post a simple question, without using the search feature to review the wealth of information provided by said members over the years.

My car took 10% to create 12psi. There are no generic settings.

Why do you all wheelspin so much for? My car doesn't come on hard but sounds as if it revs out quicker but doesn't wheel spin and Rolls, what happened at 7rpm where it just sat there before hitting the limiter? Was it wheel spinning? www.youtube.com/watch?v=82af-c-1bVo&list=UUdWWN6LAjhhsnyeQIlhiNLQ&index=2&feature=plcp 19psi is a different story, more often than not 2nd gear is unusable. This was my 224rwkw skyline. The sound is way out.

The ecu well prime the pump when the ignition is on and keep it on when the car is started, pretty sure it's ecu which does it... unless is part of the acc wiring...

Have you got them hard wired to another source? Are you still using the original fuel pump voltage line as your trigger line to switch your pumps on? You might have a stuck relay. I would punch my mates in the face if they init my pfc lol.

I took a photo of it normal, now I'm waiting for that engine light to come on so I can snap a photo of it in that state. Judging from what I have read, if the check engine light comes on, the issue WILL be displayed on the sensor screen on the commander(or at least values which are out of the ordinary).

Something stuck in your intake? Something blocking your exhaust? Different dyno?

It should always be close to the half way mark, really is no reason it should change...

It really sounds like something is off. If you are getting weird readings you really should use spark plug one as the base. The engine needs to be warm, idling at 650rpm then set to 15 degrees.

Cool, it won't do it anymore. f**kING SHIT f**kING PIECE OF SHIT. I was reading on the net the way you diagnose with a power FC is go to the sensor page, anything which triggers the CEL is on that page and either you look for something out of the ordinary or you look for something which is highlighted black which means its at fault, not connected or not working. I wish there was a list of EVERYTHING that triggers the light to come on solid, then I can check them out one at a time and tick them off.

This is the NGT4 ECU? Location?

Check if your plugs are getting wet, are the injectors pulsing? Remove a spark plug and touch it to the head, can you see a spark arc? Need to know if you are lacking fuel or spark. My money is still on plugs. fould plugs.won't look any different to working plugs. You were getting coughing and now it's just turning over without any coughing. Would indicate either no fuel flow at all (unlikely), or no spark.