SargeRX8

Tune really wouldn't alter the sound unless you are running less boost or changed some hardware.

Doesn't look like the series 2 r33 turbo...

This is solid for about, well I can't time it it just stays on solid for at least 5 seconds.. Flashing CEL means something is maxed, solid means sensor failure. I just tested my tps, it seems solid, I can increment it .01v at a time to 4.06v.

I was just driving home and my check engine light came on. It came on first solid for a few seconds then went away. Few seconds later it came on again, solid then went away. I went to stop the car and the idle was hunting really bad. I tapped the throttle and it stabilized. Then it came back again. Each time I was low in RPM, low speed(probably 2nd or 3rd gear max). Car has a Power FC. Hand controller showed 5 knock(the light was solid, not flashing), injector duty was low and temp was about 74c when I shut it off. Any ideas what can trigger the light? I guess the only hint is the hunting idle, which it has never done before... Only thing that has changed since this happened were the rear brake pads... Where the hell do I start? The car is low on fuel atm, but no warning light for fuel and I wasn't giving it any. Any way to diagnose if its the TPS or AFM? What else throws up the warning light which could cause the engine to hunt? The only thing I can think of is throw the standard ECU in there and do the diagnostic, but Ive got a Z32 AFM and Nismo injectors. I can swap out the AFM but I can't swap out the injectors... Will it throw error codes about the injectors?

I'm not going to say that the other tuner suggested by the liberty forums is shit, just its a name I am unfamiliar with when it comes to this forum. The general consensus is: If its on this forum and given the go, its good for your skyline. People don't trust eBay turbos because they are unknown and untested BUT if you read on here about the Kando turbo, which is essentially an eBay turbo, they are given the thumbs up and alot of skyliners are getting into them. You ever mention the name hypergear to anyone who doesn't drive a skyline? They won't have ANY idea what you are talking about. Then come here and find a 200page thread on this turbo and every step its taken to be developed into a pretty awesome turbo for the skyline. GTI forums, my mate was showing me. Some weird name of some guy who does backyard tuning and my mate was like take your skyline there. I was simply like what the f**k, WHO the f**k IS HE? Some backyard guy working on my skyline? He might know his way around a GTI but I won't let him near my car. Toshi on here is a backyard tuner, probably one of the best tuners you could come across in Sydney. Horses for courses.

Some guy gave it to me, it came welded onto the standard hot pipe to be a direct replacement into the R33. He said they don't sound like the other high pitch BOV's. I tried it out, didn't like it, sold it lol. Turbosmart, turbofart.

I was running a vented BOV on the hot side, right infront of the turbo actually. I took it off the same day I fitted it on, mainly because I hate vented BOV's. It worked just fine. Plumbing back a BOV back onto the hot side hmmm kind of sounds weird to me but that would be very interesting...

What? If you want someone good go to Status tuning. Don't go to other websites suggested tuners or workshops. I personally have never heard of spring motors(being from Sydney) but I have heard of the names of popular tuners which get used on here often. Status is the first one to come to mind down that way.

Any half decent workshop will be able to provide you with a Nistune chip, a compatible ECU and they do the rest.. Well they do everything. If you are in Sydney, Toshi on here will do all this for you.

Going off blind elks statement, and the name of the unit it self(manifold absolute pressure), as long as you are reading pressure from the manifold, its fine.

Yeah after reading it, you are right. I would hook my boost controller where I said initially and hook the MAP sensor to any line running directly off it(to the BOV, FPR) or you can always tap one into it.

This. When I was in the market for a skyline, I did actually see some stock turbo and some modded skylines with close to 250xxxkm on the clocks. Naturally I wouldn't buy a car with such high km, especially since they aren't rebuilds, but with that said I would not have a worry in the world if the car I owned made it from 92000km all the way to 200000km. I know that if it does let go, either I done something wrong or I didn't take care of it properly. Ive had more issues in my car not related to the engine than things that have been engine wise, and most of them are f**king noises(squeaks, squeals, noises that are normal for old cars but frustrate the hell out of me). Keep her going man, these Rb25's are stronger than the Rb30 motor holden used. My cousin has a Vl with 330000km on the clock. Non turbo but he does and the past owners have given the car a hard time. They still take care of them right, regular oil changes, when something is playing up get it fixed before it gets worse etc.

Between your manifold and BOV is good. Between your FPR and manifold is good but not suggested, if somehow that line in any way gets damaged you will lose pressure which is applied to your FPR to help raise fuel pressure. ie you will run lean if you somehow split the line going to your ECU. I think the best place to get the boost reading from is right infront of your turbo. You have the boost reading as is, straight out of the turbo. Route it through the driver side rather than passenger side, there are cleaner ways to get in on the driver side in an R33.

Hmm I don't think there is anything wrong with the sensor... I was watching my PFC hand controller and the timing on warm idle is abit bouncy, 15 - 17. It used to sit perfect on 15. Also the vacuum on idle has changed, the engine isn't sucking in as much as it was, I'm going to suspect there is a leak somewhere. Usually my boost controller(profec b spec2) reads -94 on warm idle. Now its reading around -88.

This is true, JEZ and I were speaking about this when he was tuning my car. Dialing in timing, I can do that, getting it right though, that is a different matter all together and each car will take different timing. I don't think it's a good way to judge tuner but it's an awesome way to compare turbos and see what people with the same turbo are pushing. If you get the dyno before the next pie cruise, I'll come up.

I was going to suggest he do something like this but with the injector on 5 and 6. Listen to the injector clicking open then see how that correlates with the head. If it is a bearing in the bottom end it will thud of every cycle, if its the lifter it will only thud on the exhaust or intake stroke or how ever the f**k it works.

When I saw the guys do the timing on my car at the shop, they removed the coil pack from cylinder 1, put some sort of a plug from the coil pack to the spark plug then clamped the timing light to that line going to the spark plug. Has to be cylinder one, any induction light will pick up the signal through the wire to the spark and flash when it does.

All I can hear is my brakes squealing. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HOOKER-AERO-MUFFLER-3-5-CENTRE-CENTRE-OUT-21507HKR-/360366906812?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53e78a9dbc This could suit almost any 3.5" exhaust.

ATR43SS2 tuned by DVS JEZ. Tuned for 20psi, didn't ever ping, now it does so I pulled timing my self.

Any timing light will do, just ensure its hooked to your first spark plug and flash away. Good to see it started and ran fine. Check you've got everything plugged in nice and tight. Could be something very simple.

Whats the reason for sale? Any issues with it?

Spark plugs unlikely? Sounds EXACTLY like my car after spark plugs were fitted in about a week earlier. Fresh plugs went in. Drove home from work at night. Parked the car. Next day tried to start it up the car coughed and spluttered, started and died then would never fire up. New plugs, started up just fine. Plugs got fouled. If you've failed to start the car a couple times, every time after that you are wetting your plugs and pretty much f**king them up. Try new plugs, if it doesn't fire up, then try the fuel pump test. Remove the hose from the fuel pump to the rail, put it into a bucket and check its flow for a couple of seconds. If its moving fuel, and you say throttle doesn't help it start, I'm going to say spark related. I don't know how you would develop a vacuum leak after parking the car but if you did have one, the car will start and just idle rough with alot of black smoke. Ive had minor and major leaks and each time the car does start, its just rough as ass.

I've also got the nismo, removed it for my nos. It was too quiet for me lol.

Its about 2 - 3mm spacing I think he needs to put. It can put undue stress on the CAS and on the shaft. Maybe it could be linked to the noise...

You could get the Nismo exhaust for the R33. 3", two mufflers, quiet as f**k, no idea how it flows though. Ive got a HKS Hi Power Silent exhaust. Its pretty good when driving on light load, comes up nicely on boost and high up in the revs. Cost a fair penny to buy brand new though. Pretty sure you can get 3.5" or 3" mufflers from anywhere and get any exhaust to chop up your current exhaust and weld in the muffler. You could then get a resonator or hot dog to lower the drone of your exhaust. What exhaust exactly do you have? Is it stainless or mild steel? There really is no reason why it can't be shut up a little.