SargeRX8

These are worn to the shit and having near metal on metal contact. Anybody know where to source some new parts? All the pieces I found were in the UK. Need all 4.

I've pressed bushes in before by making a jig. What I did was get a thick steel plate with a hole in the middle some thick heavy duty stainless cable and other bits and pieces. You will not get them in by hitting them. What I done was use the jig to help pull them in while I hit it with a mallet. What you're trying to make is the opposite of a bearing puller. Its hard to explain but essentially some sort of jig to pull the bushings in while you hit them and tighten your jig as you go. This is one of those things I would start doing my self. If I failed, I would load the subframe into the ute and drive it to a shop to have the bushing pressed out and new pressed in. Then reinstall the diff. FAR cheaper like this. I actually bought a subframe and have been changing the bushes on it and when I have time I'll drop the old and fit the new in.

I have the HKS Silent and it is loud as balls. I don't think the NON SILENT will be any quieter than mine.

They should have stopped. I asked to fix a pinging issue, it didn't mean the tune on their was bad but something causing a ping in the rev range. They still kept going. I found a shop selling brand new units for around $500, I'll grab one of those and fit it on then get the timing done.. Would the CAS require the car to be tuned or would this just eliminate the chance of a fluctuation which causes a misfire?

This is why I am concerned, those numbers are too high to take lightly. I was hoping they were true to their word that the ping is gone. If this was the case, the fuel pump upgrade would have only made the tune safer. This wasn't the case. I don't like being taken for a ride. When I picked up my car and they told me what they done, I felt insulted. If it wasn't so late at night I probably would not have just payed and walked away and thus I will not be going back there for a re-tune. If they told me, prior to tuning, I need a new pump and need a new CAS, boom fix it and give me the bill. Instead I payed them and was told to fix it my self then take it there for a re-tune. I will look to getting a new CAS. At the moment my injectors peak at around 70% so I have plenty of headroom in the fuel system. I will take the car for a re-tune afterwards as this is all I can do.

The values are usually quite consistent between 70 and 90, sometimes up to 110. It will only ever happen when pushing the car and usually between 5000rpm and redline. No idea which cell as I don't trace when it knocks and I don't have anyone capable of watching it for me because they don't know what to look for. What frustrated me the most about the experience with the tuner is they did not tell me the CAS was noisy prior to turning rather they tuned the car then told me the CAS was noisy. If I knew this prior to having the car tuned I would have payed for a new CAS and had it installed then tuned. As such they also tuned around a lazy fuel pump. I would have been happy to receive a phone call mid tune saying your CAS is screwed or my fuel pump was lazy, what do you want us to do. The pump has been upgraded and they said the car may run rich is this is the case. The car is not running any lean conditions and I am not peaking the injector duty cycle. I work in a trade where we need to look at customer equipment. Prior to beginning work or even during work, if we notice a work we stop straight away. I gave my car in with an issue and asked for it to be fixed and then looked at after all problems were fixed, not bandage fixed around a problem. This will cost me a full retune now. I called to have the car touched up and they said just to plug the laptop into my car is $500.

I'm using a Power FC. All I have to go by is my Power FC monitor. I took it to the tuner as it was pinging and misfiring at the time to have both issues corrected. They confirmed the ping and said it shouldn't ping anymore. I am aware that plenty of mechanical components can set off the knock monitor to show a false reading but I don't want to take it lightly especially if it can cost me an engine. I don't have access to an oscilloscope. Can the Power FC software log raw data from the CAS? Around 250rwkw. The car never showed any pinging when it was running on a very low boost tune but there is no fun at 12psi. Unigroup Engineering. I don't think they would fudge me and say the CAS is f**ked if it isn't the case. I also don't think I can get access to a CAS to test. What would be the best method to approach this problem?

Anyone able to shed some light? I'm running a stock internal motor with a SS2 turbo at 17psi and the car is pinging. I had it retuned by a popular and recommended shop and they also caught on the pinging and said they have tuned the car and eliminated the ping. Needless to say, it still pings. I've got 740cc injectors with a brand new 255l walbro genuine pump and all the supporting mods. I was told that my CAS is producing excess electrical noise and this could be partially to blame for the pinging. Is this the case? If I go out and buy a brand new CAS for $500+ will it eliminate my pinging? Regardless of ambient temp or operating temp the car will still randomly ping. Boost holds quite flat at 17psi. Any ideas on what I can do?

PM Sent.

Hi Guys I have a Teal BOV here. Came off my brothers Rotor running a 42 turbo. I have no idea what the spring inside it is rated to but it requires two thumbs to press it in with great force. He upgraded then stashed this away with other parts he upgraded, another which was a Tial wastegate which I need and cannot find. The detailing on the top of the BOV is engraved in, not printed as per fakes. The T in Tial is also two separate rectangles, not a T as per fakes. In great working order, has some cosmetic blemishes but nothing which affects performance. $150 but would MUCH prefer to trade towards a 44 - 45mm external gate. Located in Sydney and would prefer pickup but can post aus wide $12.5 should cover freight plus registration.

I can get new rims to suit, the project will cost me nearly 3k.

Inter Milano 17" wheels. I've uploaded a couple pictures of my fitment with the standard brakes. http://i.imgur.com/cJtKNpm.jpg http://i.imgur.com/OJ4iU4Z.jpg

Which part requires clearance when used with 17" wheels? Is it the rotor or the caliper? If these can fit my car, I am very interested. Can you do a bodged up number test for me, put the caliper over the rotor and see how far the caliper sits from the rotor. ie the part that will have clearance issues. So essentially to the external most diameter of the caliper on the wheel and to the spokes of a rim. Just rough. I am at Parramatta and can pickup.

Looks like a gates belt. Pieces of shit. Noisy as f**k. I wish I never put one in my car. Even at the right tension, you will get occasional noise from the belt.

Focused EMP, fry a cars electronics and it will stop. This is possible. This is how exploits work. I am a software developer and what they explained is essentially an opening into the cars software via an outbound connection. If the vehicle can auto reverse park then they can control the steering and this may explain why they were only able to control steering in reverse. This is very plausible. The same way a computer can be remotely hacked and controlled, if the electronics in the vehicle are linked via one ECU and you can open and close signals via an outside source then there is good basis to give this credibility. The first of anything connected to a network is very prone to being exploited. I remember when bluetooth became big, you had bluetooth viruses just by walking near someone with an infected mobile which could send you a virus if your phone was actively running bluetooth. Nothing is impossible.

I've done everything the kit suggested. I then used a sealant in the kit to protect them from future wear. No luck. I've hit them again with the headlight polish from maguirs or what ever it is called and still no dice.

Care to elaborate sir? Ever since I did the DIY clean on my headlights, they turn to shit pretty f**ken quick. I'm sick of it.

Hi guys, Can someone recommend a place around Sydney Parramatta where I can take my car to check my front suspension out. I am having huge issues with tyre wear on the insides. The car is slightly lower than usual so I'm thinking either will need some sort of camber adjustment or something else is really f**ked since there's a whole lot of clunking and shit going on(check older thread of mine). Suggestions can be made via PM. Cheers guys.

If this radius rod is the castor rod, mine are replaced with solid arms. Must be shaggered, I'll pull it off and have a look. Cheers guys.

Any idea what this could be? Last time it happened it was to do with the bearings in the hub. I don't think its bearings since I cannot feel it in the steering and its only a sudden clunk on braking. It will only do it once when going forward. If I putt he car into reverse it will do it again if I brake in reverse, then again if I go forward. I've applied some force to anything I can to check for free play but can't find anything. Where should I begin?

It is a GTR BOV. I'll google it now!

Hi all, Have no idea whats going on. I was suspect of a boost leak so loaded up my intake with a small amount of pressure and had a leak between the BOV and mounting plate. Problem seems to still be there. I've uploaded a video to youtube. You must use headphones as the sound is low frequency and barely audible but you will hear it as soon as boost ramps up. The sounds frequency changes, it starts off high(still very low) and gets lower. Anybody able to confirm this is a boost leak based off the sound? It is not a mechanical sound. You can hear it at exactly one second.

If you'll take 50 ill pay tonight man. If you're not far from parramatta assuming youre in sydney ill pick it up

You'll probably need two bottles of fluid to ensure you get all the old shit out. Water is pretty bad in a hydraulic setup.

Hi guys, Trying to change my brake pads. Its a surprise how fast the car munched through these. Anyway, I cannot get the pistons to squeeze back into the caliper to fit the new pads in. With that said, I've also got a new set of rotors to go on the front too which is just gonna make things even more challenging. I've got someone to crack the bleeder as I applied pressure using a screwdriver against the piston which didn't help. My old method was to use clamps to squeeze the old pad down the middle to evenly push both pistons back in. No dice. They won't budge. Any ideas? Will cleaning then with brake cleaner help? Any special tools to do this? Everything I've found is designed for those brakes which are different to skylines, they only have pistons on one side.