SargeRX8

Im using a 90 degree filter in my 33. Works just fine even to the end of the tank.

Sent you a pm yesterday regarding a couple parts

My ss2 is stuck at 240rwkw due to detonating unigroup tuned my car and ive since removed all restrictions. They used ssome device to measure electronic noise from the cas and that might be the problem with the knocking.

Yeah I've got a set of solid locking mounts in there atm yet still have axle tramp. In my spare subframe I've fitted solid diff mounts and by looking at the hairline cracks all over the subframe bush I'm contemplating cutting them out and getting new ones in there. Then it feels like a waste if I do all then and not replace all the old bushes in the arms at the rear and gearbox mount... This could go on forever.

Is your engine square with the chassis? I made a huge f**king mistake when removing my gearbox. I loosened both engine mounts to tilt the engine back. Took some f**king around to ensure it was sitting in the right spot. That's the unfortunate thing about driving high power vehicles with very old rubbing throughout. I'm doing a rear end bush and rubber swap out. The subframe bushes still look rock solid but the diff bushes all cracked. Chances are my gearbox rubbers will be cracked. When I checked the engine mounts they were fine. My old car had a cracked passenger side mount but gave 0 vibration/noise under high load.

I got my rear diff bushes out. Made up a jig and squeezed them out. I've concluded the subframe bushes will be impossible without cutting them out. There is nothing around them to bite onto and the local shop wants 85 per corner to remove.

The ink looks very fresh. The colours are far too vibrant. Unless these were stored in above optimal condition, they could be reproductions. It isn't hard to find reproduction boxes. All my boxes have washed colours or damaged My SMS cases are still awesome thanks to the plastic wraps but even those are fading somewhat.

Happened in my car. 5th gear in low rpm would cause vibration to travel through the whole car. The rear view mirror was useless. After I changed my clutch, the issue went away. It was interesting. I had a stock replacement clutch and stock flywheel. Now I use a carbotic button clutch on a stock flywheel and it seems fine. If I put the rpm low enough though, the car really doesn't want to go. Kind of seems dumb and pointless to ever need to use 5th gear at 50km/h. My car is very comfortable at 70km/h in 5th but I still drop to 4th or 3rd when I need to move. Take it as you may but I also put solid subframe locks at the same time I did my clutch.

Is it worthy for a street car to sit in solid rear subframe mounts?

Ill probably grab two rears. It makes sense. I got another qn guys. Ive got my hands on a subframe. What id like to do is get the bushings out and new ones in then just swap everything out of my car onto this frame then back onto the car. This is for the rear mind you. Ive tried bashing the thing out with a 2kg hammer and a 60cm handle. Won't budge. I tried using a cylinder with a closed end and a bolt through to try pull the diff bushes out and no dice. My cylinder began to flex and it looked like i was just gonna tear the rubber off the mount. I tried bashing a chisel in between the subframe and bush and looked like id cause damage to the subframe before anything would happen. I dont want to burn the thing. Are there any special tools that can be used apart from a massive press or could/should i just take it to a shop and have them press it. Im doing solid diff mounts with whiteline or hard race subframe mounts. Im contemplating solid subframe mounts. People say their is more noise and shock transfer to the chassis but if all it does is increase noise but eliminate energy absorbance and rebound from the rubber mounts then ill do it.

Yep where i work had one guy snap something up front and another guy somehow snapped an exhaust mount. Council will drag it on and on until you forget an give up.

Just ground the fpcm. I used a 040. Now im using a 255lph from walbro. Ive road driven both to the last drop with about 3l of fuel left in the tank. Never had any issues. Symptoms of a failing fuel pump are usually cold start issues and lean popping while attempting to raise revs with load.

Yep spoke with those guys. Just noticed they're not in North Parramatta anymore. It is $160 for the shock which is awesome. Apart from this knocking noise in the rear they've served me well. If I can get out there tomorrow to grab a shock then I'll do that otherwise my next day off, next Tuesday!

What Duncan did was list everything possible from the description you gave but if you give more detail it could be narrowed down without going through that whole list. Does it do it when you accelerate on smooth road or brake hard on smooth road? Does it sound like its coming from a corner? Which corner? Is it a metal sound or a hollow sound(hollow sound as in knocking on your steering wheel vs tapping on a piece of metal). My car does something similar, in the rear corner. I have a leaky shock. Its like constant tapping in the rear right with every bump on the road.

Is there an Australian distributor for HSD

Can you elaborate on this?

Good to know. If my parts come this weekend I'll be under there checking things out. Hopefully there are some obviously cracked rubbers.

Yeah the car never sat low(exhaust hung low though). It was a little lower than stock. But probably since I am running bigger wheels, it will force them to go into -ve camber. I've jacked the rear up about 30mm now. The diff is sitting about 130 - 140mm from the ground. Both front and rears have camber wear. I really am considering doing all the bushes in the car, including engine and gearbox mounts its just unfortunate that most of the money ends up going into labor since all this stuff needs to be press fit. How high does your R33 sit from the bottom of the diff(just below the drain plug)?

I had this problem. Keep a hose off the drain nipple into a jar of fluid. Sometimes when you pump and then release the pedal, air can get back in. Also what I'd suggest is bypass the whole bullshit between the master and slave using a braided line.

Fatz do you by any chance have a 33 gtst 2 door rear subframe laying around?

Very much appreciated GTSBoy. After mucking around last night, the clunk/loud knock seems to have gone for now. What I am left with is a hollow rattling sound. Its coming from the same corner but definitely not the same clunk/knock as before. I've sent SydneyKid a message regarding options. I've ordered some parts online, I've now got the Hardrace adjustable rear camber arms, solid diff mounts and looking to possibly get solid subframe mounts(battling axle tramp). This is the real shit storm though. I have no idea if this rattling sound is from the shock or if its from some other old 18 year old rubber component. I'm thinking of buying a whole rear subframe, changing all the mounts, then dropping my old subframe and fitting the new one in with hardrace components the whole way round.

Hi guys, Chasing some knocking in the rear, I did some inspection on my suspension and I found a liquid/crud build up on the top of one of my rear shocks(the noisy one). I couldn't take it out as I was running out of light and couldn't be stuffed removing the back seats. The point where the oil/stuff is is just where the piston exits the tube and it was enough to start sliding down the outside of the shock. They're a set of the HSD coilovers, the green/black set. I bought them off here about a year or two ago and had this knock there for some time. I don't know if its something else but its essentially a thump/knock whenever going over a bump, speed hump, pot hole or rough road on that one side. I've seen some people get quoted nearly $250 for a rebuild(per corner) and if thats the case, I'll either sell these as worn and just buy a new set. Input would be good. What interest me though is the cylinder says its gas filled, if so what is the liquid just a lubricating system? My second question is regarding rear camber. I have too much negative(?) camber. The top of the tyre is closer in towards the car. Its eating away at that side of the tire. What do I need to buy or replace to have this rectified? Are there any reputable shops anyone can suggest which can do on car suspension checks to determine if there is an issue without needing to pull everything apart? I have also noticed in/out play in my rear half shafts. There is no up down play. I get clicking sounds when taking off and reversing, from the rear.

Is my exhaust valid now since it is built by Nissan, being a Nismo exhaust and a bolt on option for the R33?

Bugger if you were local, I'd have taken it. Can't post those as they're considered explosives. I've got plenty though, when you have a boat these things expire more often than they should.

Yeah ill be cutting in a design. Ive found a local shop im gonna check out next week. Do those guys have a site?