SargeRX8

Haven't taken a plenum off a GTR but I do know you will probably need a new gasket kit ready to go on as the old gaskets might be dry and could crack when you take them off. Better to be prepared for the worst.

Title says it all guys, I cannot get the wiring for my fuel pump in tank or my new wiring from my Walbro GSS342 to take solder. It just beads on the top. My solder is giving plenty of heat, but the solder will just bead up and either sit ontop of roll off to the side. The wire in the tank, looks brown and shit but I have no idea how to get new wire in there. Will flux help? If so what type of flux? Considering the wire from my GSS342 is brand new, why won't the solder bind to that either? The wires are getting enough heat, nearly too hot to even touch.

That's an immaculate fit Johnny. Good to see more SS2 turbos feeding air to these motors! Did you get the hot side of your turbo modified to suit the external or did that come from Hypergear as an option? I'm thinking about running an external but I'd like to maintain the standard dump pattern.

I've had two R33's. Looking at potentially getting another one if I can find a black/purple s3 GTR.

As above. Wipe it with a white tissue if its red its your power steering fluid

Yeah the 040 doesn't seem to like any ethanol content. My pump is 2 maybe 3 years and its probably not running up to spec.

I'd try to ditch this turbo and see if you can pickup a highflow. Dicking around with this turbo, making a custom dump flange etc. Pain in the ass. I'd prefer to spend a little more on the turbo for a bolt on setup and harness more power and better performance all round(response and general feel). Response is the real factor with these sleeve bearings vs ball bearing/bush bearing

The tapping sound? If it isn't the isn't the injectors clicking then its probably lifter noise. How long since your last oil change? What oil do you use?

I've checked all sensors and the voltage are in spec. I'll be taking the car back to Unigroup to have the tune finalized after my fuel system us up to scratch. Do you happen to have the O2 sensor connected?

Hey all, Just got my car back from Unigroup after it was tuned. Noticed now that when its cold, if I drive in first then clutch in to go to second, the car will hold revs at nearly 1.5k before eventually dropping back down. It makes for uncomfortable driving and shifting between gears. Now I understand when the car is cold that it runs in different modes hence the rpm being higher, but when the car is warm it sometimes presents the same issue. The car was pre tune tested for leaks and other issues, timing set etc. I suspect it might be something to do with the afm but at the same time, I have no idea. The AAC thing has been removed and cleaned about 2 years ago. Idle is set to 750 - 850 rpm if I recall. ECU is a power FC. Also have another annoying issue. When starting the car, the hand check engine light will flash and display a knock reading usually between 40 - 60 on startup. I have narrowed this issue down previously and it seems if I have the datalogit connected to my car OR if I have my narrowband feeding a signal to the ECU, it does this. Without either, the car will NOT flash and there is no ping on startup. I don't care about it but its annoying for someone with OCD with everything running right. Any ideas guys?

I too had a huge leak. Got rough lumpy idle not a 5k idle

Hi, I need two wheels, don't really care about brand or make. Prefer a black wheel. Little to no gutter rash, don't need rubber, must fit a 235 comfortably. Offset to clear the brakes and thats it, I do not want wheels protruding out of my guards and I do not want to use spacers. Reason for request is front wheels need spacers. I want to eliminate this. Sydney local pickup only. Please PM pics and prices.

My O2 sensor plug isn't happy. The plug is nearly lost its shape and the wiring that is close to that region has brittle coating. That top half of the engine isn't so bad, I'd be more concerned about anything you have near the hot side.

As above, switch it off then prime it by turning the ignition on. If you can hear it making the same sound, its the pump. If its the stock pump, it could be tired and on its way.

Just set it all up. Damn those wires for the o2 sensor are brittle as shit from the exhaust and turbo heat. All the shielding is dry and crumbly lucky i saw it. Cheers guys. Next on the list is fuel pump and beefing up the power.

Do you have a datalogit? If you can get your hands on one. Backup your current tune the reinitalize the ecu. Let it do its cold start setup and then drive the car until its warm and shut it odf and restart it. If issue persists then its hardware at fault. I had a cold start issue. Car would never start first go. After many people suggesting the water temp sensor, contact cleaner on the afm sensor had the car starting instantly every single time and improved drivability 10 fold.

Its a lambda sensor but the AEM unit will simulate a narrowband output. Unigroup suggested to run it in there and switch o2 feedback on as it can improve economy if I am doing mostly cruising driving, which I am. Plenty suggest ditching the o2 sensor all together and letting a good tune handle everything. These guys suggested it will do no harm to have it in there and enabled as it won't hinder performance at all and will either have no effect or some effect to economy. I've still got a near new o2 sensor here and a bug but don't really want to put another unit in the exhaust.

Hi guys just after clarification. Unigroup tuned my car and suggested to run the narrowband output. Ive set my wideband to p4 and it puts out approx 0.1 to 1.1v. Now if i am correct ill need to connect this to the clear wire on the o2 loom in the engine bay. I do not want to splice the wiring near the ecu. Is the voltage given out by the narrow band safe for my ecu? Some say 0 to 1 v but if ive seen 1.2v coming out i dont want to fry my ecu. its an r33 gtst with pfc.

The squeak is usually a sign of the cylinder not sealing properly or a worn spring. In my unit the spring snapped and the piston inside wasn't sealed causing the clutch to semi disengage and the excess fluid in the system to backwash into the reservoir.

When my clutch master failed it produced noise before it eventually collapsed on it self and i could only get home in one gear. The system is a pain in the arse. The whole loop is redundant. If you can get.your hands on a braided line id eliminate the entire loop and go straight to the slave. It would help you ensure you've bled correctly .

Actually, I am not going to run a surge tank. I don't need it and I cbf fiddling around. Just gonna browse through the dyno section and get an idea of suitable in tank pumps.

Some say fuel lines tend to weep and since the boot in the bay isn't sealed the smell from weeping lines can get into the cabin. Ive got a small surge tank at home.ill get a 044 and wire up a surge tank and build a fail safe light on the lift pump

I thought though that a 040 would be more than capable of flowing enough fuel for 260rwkw. I want to avoid a surge tank as the car is a daily and the smell of fuel in the back would be intolerable. I can get a 044 and use the 040 as a lift pump and the 044 to feed the injectors but if i can get away without doing that I'd be happy. So i take it the for wont do any good for me. If that is the case, what drop in is going go provide the greatest flow and life? I was looking at the nismo drop in. The other option would be a walbro 255 since these are proven oerformers. I want to try something new from the bosch pumps since 3 have failed on me in both my cars.

They must be fakes. The chap who I got them from was more than happy to support the product and offered a full refund but stated his parts are genuine and that he imports them from Japan from Hashim or how ever you spell it, who he suggest are the company who build coils for Nissan and Mitsubishi. He really knew his stuff when I spoke with him and vouched they are genuine. None the less he supports his product and was happy to help. Hello splitfires, please don't let me down! I have another question. Unigroup suggested my fuel system was peaking. They said my injectors are good for about 400kw and that the problem is either the fuel pump or the wiring to the fuel pump being insufficient. What would you guys recommend as a drop in, no dicking around fuel pump? I currently use a Bosch 040 and this is the second Bosch 040 I've had go in this car. Ive also got a Nismo FPR. Could this be of any use to them to increase pressures in the fuel system? I need to find the DIY to beef up the power to the fuel pump.

Sounds like an afm issue especially and the lower spectrum of the rpm. If you're handy with a solder you can crack it open and soldier all the joints inside it. Its not likely the element is damaged but more likely there's a cold solder in there. If that doesn't fix it then it might be a long road.