SargeRX8

Just got my car back from Unigroup. Running without any issues now. Coil packs were the problem. Has brand new splitfires in it now. Looks like old packs failed, new ones were duds. Had the car retuned too. Feels a whole lot nicer to drive overall. More power on same boost. Issue now is fuel system isn't sufficient to run anymore boost. Next mod is trying to trick up the power to the 040 otherwise I need a new pump!

My last statement was trying to say that if you tuned the idle cell at 15 degrees on the ecu but the base timing was incorrect, the hand controller will show 15 degrees but the base timing at idle will be different. Afaik there is no djetro for the rb25 r33.

The power fc cant take a fuel content sensor and edit the tables on the fly. It also cannot accept a map sensor and allow VE tuning. I also thought that the timing number on the hand controller was the load table that the ecu is currently in, not the actual timing of the cams.

I have no issues with how the pfc works by all means both my cars run a poser fc. The issue for me was getting my tune to work with my new intake pipe correctly. I also wish they added the ability to give inputs. I would have loved to run flexfuel. The thing about newer ecus is they have higher resolution ignition and injection tables which can allow for a much more precise setup which can be felt on road while at cruise. Ive read only good things about unigroup and their ability to do the power fc but if i am able to get a new ecu to run a VE tune and leave the gates open for flexfuel then i would be a happy man.

I've read most of the content in this thread. Interestingly I am having somewhat similar issues with my car. It will get a little sloppy between gears until boost ramps up. Idle can also be retarded when the car is warm. My car is an R33, some similar parts but the one that has hit me the most so far is the f**king Gates timing belt. I use one. Its a piece of shit. When I first installed it, it was noisy. I had to pull everything apart and tweak it. It still makes noise. I took it to a shop and they said this is why you do not use a gates belt. f**king piece of horse shit, I should have just went with the Nissan. None the less my car is going to Unigroup this Thursday to rectify a misfire. I also need to eliminate the slop I've created in my tune by pulling timing to eliminate a ping. Does anyone know if Unigroup are able to provide ECU's? If so I might get them to rip that f**king power fc and AFM out and give me the MAP goodness.

It is an two individuals. They're still around. I made some phone calls. I need to fill out some forms for the Sheriff but they ask for details about the other party(address, number etc) which I cannot provide. Tedious task.

I too use the 100 cell and really don't notice any difference in smell. I've had it on my car for 3 years. Best bit of gear. I took it off the other day to inspect the core and she still looks good. The only issue for me is a slight alignment between either the dump and cat or cat and exhaust. One or the other isn't sitting in the right spot. Even if you went 200 cell, you will not pass emissions, especially on an aftermarket ECU, more boost and regular 98 fuel. Also to note, the ruling is you must have a cat installed. A deleted cat or gutted cat is illegal, but if you ran, just for the purpose of this example, a 50 cell cat, you are still running a functioning catalytic converter which is not up to standards. You will be defected but you will not receive a hefty fine for running no cat.

I would honestly try DIY. Find a how to on dismantling the headlight and get one of these suckers and use PlastX. That stuff is godly at making headlights look brand new.

At the local car wash I've seen numerous cars pull in, pop the hood and just start spraying with the engine cleaner mode then water. You won't really cause any harm if you protect your filter, protect your coils and protect your alternator. Ive tried the cloth and degreaser method, you'll need to dedicate alot of time. Also don't use the aerosol degreaser, use the stuff you need to dilute and put into a pump spray bottle.

I did this in my S2 without removing the dash. Can't remember how so this is gonna be interesting job for tomorrow. Now we have 3D printers, we should get someone who is familiar with CAD to design a replacement piece and have it printed by a company who does 3D prints! I'll if my colleague can design it, if so, I'll get in contact with another work mate who has a printer and see if he can print out a batch!

This is a bad bump but hoping I get a reply. I did this about a year ago. Fixed it. Today it came back. Everything still works in relation to air flow in my AC. I'm going to disconnect this piece of shit. Would it affect my AC and if so i what way?

Hey all, Not sure if anyone here recalls but some years ago, my car was written off. Long story short, the matter went to court, I won my case. 3 years later the other party still has not made any effort to make payments. I don't want to go to a solicitor again since they charge an arm and a leg. I just need advice. Where should I go with this? There is no expiry date/response date on the judgement. All it says is the defendant is to pay plantiff x amount of money and after 28 days interest will be charged at 8.5% If anyone has any suggestions that would be great. This stressed me out for far too long and I just want it done and dusted.

Sounds like a hack job installation to begin with. As other suggest, with electronics, if something stops working, step backwards and undo what could affect it. That isn't to say you need to reconnect your speakers, but I'd definitely be looking at removed fuses, removed taps into ignition/acc and removed ground.

Hang moth balls up. Sucks when you don't have enough room to work on your car.

Looks like a nice clean install. What you should have done too was fit the BOV in the box. That's what I did with my boost controller valve, use the box to hide anything you don't want peering eyes seeing!

Why didn't you try swap injector 1 to cylinder 2 and injector 2 to cylinder 1 to see if the issue follows the injector or if it stays on the injector channel? Also interesting to see the Nismo injectors have jacked up price since I bought mine. That's interesting.

I didn't have my turbo done there my self but my old skylines turbo was built there. It was great.

That is why I suggested turning off the AFM warning. If you turn off the AFM warning but still have a flashing Check Engine light then the problem is not the AFM peaking. If you check online you'll find picture guides on disabling it. Once you can differentiate between enabled and disabled symbols its pretty easy.

The ECU will not flash the check engine light for a rev limiter. If it happens mainly/only when its raining there is a chance water is getting into something. Do you have a vented bonnet? If so does water get into your vents? If water hits the TPS and other electronic components in there and throws a signal the ECU does not expect, it can quite likely cause the engine light to flicker and the engine to run like arse. The light should bother you. A check engine light isn't usually a good thing. It will not come on unless a specific condition is met. It doesn't necessarily mean your car will explode but it could be an indication something is not operating within its expected boundaries and its probably a good idea to get ontop of it and be aware of the cause.

What you can try do is disable the ECU from giving warnings if your AFM or injectors are at peak. What I would do next is have the control in the mode which lets you view the sensors and if the ECU triggers a warning have a passenger watch the screen closely to see if one of the triggers switches off. If the ECU is throwing an issue, it can be reported by the hand controller, whether it be a threshold limit or a component failure.

The second time I did this service on my car, 20 minutes and I was already putting everything back together. I still think the biggest pain in the ass is getting the harmonic balancer off.

Nismo 740cc. About 2.5 years old.

Interested in selling the silencer separate?

Hi all Having issues with a misfire in my car and trying to get to the bottom of it. Invested some $ into it and nothing has worked so far. Does anyone have a coil loom for the series 2 R33 which I could try, to rule out or confirm the loom is the issue? I am around the Parramatta area.

Just did fuel filter. Grounded my 040 to increase flow. Cleaned the afm with maf cleaner and cleaned up the contacts on the afm and coils. No luck. I can make the car climb to 6 to 7krpm without boosting and its fine in the rom range. As soon as I push my foot down it blap blap and carries on. So if im driving on light load the car is fine even at high rpm. As soon as I am on boost no good. If I boost up an incline its worse. My tps is giving good numbers. My wideband is about 10 to 12 afr at wot during the miss. New loom for the coils next. If there is no luck then im taking it to a shop.