BundyBear

::Z54 definatly not, I'm not sure what the .17 indicates(I assume it'ssomething to do with 17"Rims), but they are the only 2 posibilities FAST can give Cheers Bundy

Jamie Not sure bout the old fronts. pop one out and check the label 2 be sure. (Melting rear speakers seems 2 be a thing with skylines) I'd be trying to swap them 6x9 for some 6" or 6.5" (4get which fits) for the fronts, I had Quarts 5.25" in my last system, put them in a 2-3Leter fibreglass box, really gives some kick to things like snare drums (tight box, lots of power = ) ^^^don't have a pic without the grill but you get the idea. cheers Bundy

yea 33/34 show V Spec, 32z only show GT-R or GT-R.17 2 check models in FAST type 'r32' in "Model series", click OK, then the top right button out of the 8 Jap buttons (DU-AD) cheerz

hey jamie you got the config with the first go, one amp for Front/Rear speakers, and one for the subs. This should give a good balance of power between the speakers and the subs, although for pure Sound Quality you might back off the amp 4 the subs the subs won't mind the lower power, just be sure to tune the amps properly once installed Depending on your Front/rear speakers you could run the second amp in 4 chanel mode for Fronts and Rears OR run it in bridged mide (same as the subs) for the Front speakers and run the rears of the deck I used 2 run a pair of Alpine MRV-F400z and 2 x 12"ZR subs in that config, great IF the front speakers can hack it Wire Size : I'd go 4 guage, takes about 80A so pleanty of overhead . Don't 4get the fuse at the battery end of this cable I'd also upgade your Earths to motor, battery etc Brands don't really matter 4 the wire itself, just be sure it's OFC copper (Oxygex Free Copper), Stops corrosion , less Voltage drop as for fuseholders and other gold plated fittings, spend the $$$. Cheap = nasty Cheers Bundy

probably not, V Specs are normally listed as GTR/V in FAST like the one below although I've never seen the 17, so looks like "Something" special, maybe someone else can shed a light also just notice d the othert 32z I got 'on file' list engine as 'RB26DTT' yours lists as 'RB26DETT" & your Geabox lists as MT.F5 not MT ... could be Series 2 maybe someone familiar with 32'z might know EDIT: splelnig

??GTR.17?? not sure what it is, bit I think I'll like it. cheers Bundy

don't thing so ,based on this (post # 56) cheers EDIT: fixed link

Cheers

Where bouts in Oz r U??? might be able to replace to tuner if its seperate, if not put a Oz digi tuner on the AUX input to the TV

I thought they all had it. maybe thats why I got no dash dimer?? areal will probably go right up, good reception

hey Scott flick ya antenna switch. On my 33 It makes the areal only go half way It's still kinda big but not as bad, reception only drops a bit cheers bundy

Best bet is to unplug your radio, clock & ciggy lighter then try a new fuse, if it pops youve probably got wireing issues if not plug stuff back in till the fuse pops & bingo... my moneys on the CD though cheers

Brandon mine comes up invalid to, thats on the VIN , the model No and using both??? I'm using FAST Ver 3.5 btw cheers

I don't think so, although ECUTalk is not my software see ECUTalk.com 4 info I believe conzult will via custom registers hey Anthony had similar ideas myself but VBz just not up 2 the task. Would love to see it come to life my end goal is to go the CarPC route with live stats (ECUTalk), so animated logs would be a cool addition my prog basicaly converts the 12Hr time from the log file to an 'Index' and copyz the rest of the log line, simple I know but most of the graphic log viewers couldn't deal with the time format are you gona release either variant to the eager public ?? Freeware is Goodware Cheers Bundy

mic you've obviously lost the constant feed to the entire dash (probably ECU, dash lights also). I know the 32'z have a fuseable link (not fuse, they look like a loop of wire) near the battery this might have gone with no wiring diagram 4 the 33'z I'd grab a test light and start pokn round check the back of the Ignition switch 4 constant power (make sure plugs arn't loose 2) it'l give you an idea where 2 look where bouts you located ?? maybe someone familiar with autoelec in your area can help cheers ps you know there are 3 lots of fuses ....

sorry FAST does not deal with Engine Numbers Cheers Bundy

Sweet How'd u go ?? , any feedback good or bad always apreceiated cheers Bundy

Mike I'm gonna assume that you've had the memory problem since installing your CD player the usual cause is the constant and Acc wires crossed over (there the red and yellow ones) swap them round you should be sweet if the above assumption is wrong the the fuse is near your right knee cheers

BUMP

Macross there doesn't seem 2 be much solid info on these satnavz, seem to have lots of begs though given that the speed wire is a signal rather than power I'd expect less that 100mA current flow, therefore you should be safe if you put a 100mA or similar fuse inline with the speed sig (I'd start with the ecu signal - easy access) cheerz

hey SirRacer probably the easiest way is:- start wiring from the amp when you'r putting the terminals on for the first speaker, wire another length ( for the orther speaker) so each crimp terminal has 2 negz or 2 poz( I'd solder these after crimping) put your crimp terminals on the second length of wire drink beer repeat 4 other speakers sorry bout the delay work been hell, lovn friday cheerz

Macross just stumbled on 2 this might help Linky bit

cheerz

hey Al I'd be havn a look at the back of the Ignition Switch for any 'Less than Standard' Wiring, if not try around the fuse box'z also check the radio's wiring ( behind the plug) someone may have joined the 'constant' and 'Acc' cheerz

hey You won't get any power loss by putting your speakers in parallel and both willl get the same power. Your amp (like most) puts out 50W RMS @ 4 Ohms (ie one 4Ohm Speaker) OR 100W RMS at 2 Ohms ( ie Two 4 Ohm speakers in Parallel), this means each speaker still gets 50W RMS (Assuming Identical Speakers) 4 convenience I run twin from the AMP to the closest speaker, then on to the 2nd speaker. So the first speaker has 2 x twin cable attatched one to the amp the other to the 2nd speaker Basicaly as long at the 3 positives are wired together, the 3 negatives are wired together and NONE of the positives are wired to any of the negatives yu'l be sweet Cheers