BundyBear

hey Basicaly wire each pair of speakers to one chanel, you can run the speaker wire from the amp to one speaker then to the other, just keep the positive's together and the neg's 2 as 4 being a boat ... corrosion WILL be your bigest issue ( I've worked on a couple of cruse boats and its more of an issue than water) use OFC (Oxygen Free Coper) cable as it suffers much less. Avoid joins like the plague, ie continuous run from the amp 2 the first speaker etc Silicon on the speaker terminals helps to, seals the end of the insulatoin something like this ^^^ cheers

Sorry not V-spec, not sure if FAST list n1'z cheerz

yea FAST gets a bit funny @ times, I've had VIN's that come up invalid, then reboot 'd my PC, and suddenly their valid ????wtf others that will not work on mr Ver 3.5 but they work on other versions of FAST ????? weird $h1t... don't 4get your paint code, interior color and date of manafacture are on the compliance plate anyway, FAST is mostly 4 looking up part numbers, rather than verifying a car identity though Cheerz

hey Aaron this could just be a F up in FAST, I used your model and got the following details, I does tell me the ER33 part IS valid mmmmmm, another V-spec ..... Cheerz

So basicaly you shoud have a white 34GT-T with hicas. If you 'decode' your model number (the GGKB...) it will tell you what options were fitted @ factory, do a search on SAU as memory tells me there are at least 2 threads covering decoding. Chers bb

is V-tech is good. Cheers

mmmmm Type M, Cheers kay I'm assuming your having problems using FAST, which Version are you using?, do other VIN No'z work? Did you get the PM I sent you?? Cheers

hey Mat look like a sweet ride Interior colour 'K' = Grey paint colour 'AR1' = Super Clear Red II GST25TM1 = GTS25T type M, Spec 1

hey Nigel I think this is what I'm lookn at ?? drains back to the side of the block. used your VIN so you SHOULD get the right part, im no expert though Cheers

cheers

looks like its blown out in line with the dump pipe flange, maybe a dodgy gasket ??? might b worth a look bit of thermo wrap in that dump wouldn't hurt, shoud be good for +0.5hp also

Naa nothn wrong thats just FAST, try shudown/restart on windows, helps sometimes The 6U9000 tells you its a jap import(into Oz) 4 sure, unfortunatly Engine Numbers arn't covered this is what mine got looks sweet Cheers EDIT:: KH2 ==> Gun Grey Metallic

cheers

my bad was in a rush

no probs there tim, think I seen a 'swap parts 4 rego' thread somewhere on SAU, might B of interest PublicEnemy : my version of fast doesn't do that Series but while FAST will let you look up the std diff part no it won't give you a ratio, I'd sujest ya local 4WD club

hey Akis Try these BUT you'd be better off getting a copy of fast as there are upto 14 different variation for some parts cheers bundy

yea probably an EBSAC (Error Between Screen And Chair) error on Vic Roads behalf, seen NSW RTA do similar things, I'd give em a call n let em sort thier shit out

hey dude hope ya get this in time ... had PC issues think I got a Viri cheers all EDIT:: KH2 - Gunmetal Grey Metallic

hey Guys bought a S2 33 a few months ago fitted with a mines ECU, I havn't noticed any detonation, BUT I have to use 'top shelf' fuels otherwize I get a bit of hesitation, missing, backfire, generally a very unhappy car on the upside I can tell which local servos have real clean tanks

hey let me make sure I've got this right.. your headlights and front parkers are on the standard switch, while the dash and rear are on an aftermarket switch , dash/rear only work sometimes.? ASSuming this is right then * get a test light ( even a globe in a socket with 30cm of wires) to use conect one wire to the chasis and 'probe' with the other * have a look at the aftermarket switch, it should have a power feed (Acc of IGN) and a feed that goes to the taillights/dash * the second feed ( tail lights) will need to be hooked to the parkers feed on the standard switch I'd also trace the power feed back and remove ( could go to fuse panel/durry lighter/anywhere really) I doubt the dimmer would be the culprit as tail lights are generally not dimmed ( unless your doin the afore mentioned runner ) they can blow dash globes when faulty though cheers post or PM if ya need more help EDIT:: just had a thread reRead are we talking an R33 or a SENATOR ???

Eric a VIN ( vehicle Identification Number) is the chasis No for new vehicles, so the basicly the same thing The model no, big 18 char job defines the options fitted to the car at the factory a FAST lookup can be done the either the VIN or model no. Ian this is one of those Q'z if havent looked into yet, possibly some light may be shed by decoding the model no. !?! considering how many V-specs you see 4 sale with "paperwork to prove V-spec" it must be possible somehow, maybe you need papers from the original purchase. maybe someone else might know / post cheerz

maybe alternate between heating the little bugger, then drill till it cools, and repeat ??? maybe how are you heating them?? gas Axe or blowtorch? white hot or just hot

:::iplen GGJPRQFR33ZDAAA--A R33 GTR RB26dett manual hicas 4/96 paint KR4 interior (K) grey :::ralf19812001 GGJPRQFR33ZDA-EP-C R33 GTR RB26DETT manual hicas,4wd 11/97 paint KH3 interior k :::Dezoner sorry dude but thats neither a model # or Vin # for a 33. An R33 has '33' in both model and vin , same 4 ya 34 FAST unfortunatley DOESN'T contain Engine No'z cheers all

+1 I got a 'Sharpie', can do (cough) 'mods', need cash whats the goin rate for a nice 33GTR these days ?????????????? chrome dish = maybe. chrome rims = yuck put the type Rz back on

comes up: model : KBNR32RXFSLMZG Series : R32 built : 10/89 paint color : #732 ??? : 2k Engine : RB26DTT : HickA$$, 4WD GT-R Manual no interior color code listed looks genuine cheerz