BundyBear

this is what I love about FAST, mines accepting levelrides TuDay ... go figure !!

Don't happed to have any rear pods there ??

:Source http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/mot...adr_online.aspx

rs73 my model list looks preety similar to yours, I think yours has the data. I'd try a couple of vins from further up the page and see if you get the same results my copy is from utorrent if your interested (fairly sure i posted the hash value bask a month or so). where did you source the 2009 ver, I wouldn't mind a copy to ..'complete' the colection so 2 speak cheers

I got .. with FAST V3.50 :BC210 :levelride Sorry dude no go with mine either What is your model no , the 14 char one, I can do a look up on this instead, may get results :DemsA31 cheers n beers BBQ TUE

a bit more hear/say Like Kujotk said ^^^ check with the rta, get it in writing and keep a copy in the car hehehe bout 7 yrs ago now I got pinged for my 'A' pillar guage being 2 far up the pillar and was told by the blue slip bloke (real hard a$$ type) the entire guage must be behind the rim of the steering wheel ( the bit ya grip), moved it down and got passed also I had tweeters in the vents(had them hid back behind the grill) , old eagle eye spotted em while sus'n my guage and made me move them 2, so I'd say guages in the vents would be out I have in the past rang the RTA to ask specific Q'z and if ya nice enough they will post a printed extract of the regs

have a search on SAU for heater threads you should find plenty of info on the heater. being a 33 owner I'm not familiar with the 34 BUT if ya stick ya head under the glove box and hit the 'recircualte air' button, you should see a 'rod and lever' arangement mo0ving, thats the cowl door. Same goes 4 the heater cores tap, change the temp and something will move to direct the water flow. like I said though do a search. I'm sure I've seen full removal guides and all.

not sure bout 32z ( i got a 33, bitch 2 decode) but i'm reasonably sure theres 2 'decode model' thread on SAU somewhere that should let you decode the letters ( they represent different optional extraz ) a quick search should find them cheers

almost sounds like the 'heater core' tap is stuck on, as well as the cowl door not closing properly, probably the seal is cactus

Colour code KH2 :Gunmetal Grey Metallic MT :Manual Trans RB26DTT : RB26DETT <=Weird NISSAN thing HickAss, 4WD rest is preety easy no interior colour code ?? does happen sometimes with FAST.. cherrs

Sorry there Simon I seem to have plain old farked up this one should be betta (fingerz X'd) Hope I got that one right 2 hehe Cheers

Cheers

Try this README.TXT or this showthread.htm ^^^ Probably betta Cheers

hit the recirculate button (inside air ) to stop the blowing with the aircons off, the cowl vent door gets left open its been said B4 but, the designer of the A/C should be shot cheers EDIT: Some 'Console' programs can diagnose the aircon, might be worth a shot if ya got access to one

Given you just had work done done on the car I'd say the ambient sensor is unpluged ( it should be the little black lump next to the horns, behind front bumper). Like GTScotT said its a common thing, mechanic forgets sensor, A/C thinks the outside temp is -40C or something and fires up the heater 4 ya There are 2 other sensors, one at the back of the dash ,left side (sunLoad) and one just to the left of the steering columb (interior temp). Any of these left unpluged/faulty will screw up ya AirCon (usually with the heat your gettn) Cheers EDIT: Water temp hitting 110C sounds like a seperate issue, I THINK this is a common issue 4 workd motors (I'd sujest you search SAU 4 this one, I've seen a few good posts covering this)

Bump / UpDate V1.1.0.0 is now available, the AM/PM spanning fault is now fixed along with a few others DOWNLOAD is Here https://sourceforge.net/projects/ecutalktowinlog/files/ ** Download VB5 Runtime Library here

cheerz

eightsixboy RedEmblem

cluch, just did a quick search (rough idle) n found these http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ro...=r33+rough+idle http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ro...=r33+rough+idle http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Id...=r33+rough+idle also check the vacume lines around the turbo & BOV 4 splits and reset the ECU ( they self learn ) cheers bundy

Sounds like the clasic lack of backpresuer in the exhause ??? you said standard but so.... I'd look at plug packs or maybe blocked injecter... a consult program like ECUTalk/Nissan DataScan would show up faulty AFM's etc, could be worth a look (datascan can shut off each cylinder, you might be able to tell if its one/two pots misfiring(plugpack) or random(sensor)

chutch, I changed mine b4 chrissy and my mechanic said go 4 the 5z. 6z if ya got a few modsand hi boost (12psi+), I think the 1.1mm is OK, Close the gap if ya have misfire probs. Which plug you use comes down to the mods. I run 5z ($3 each NGKz, changed every 3500km) & have no probs in my R33S2 with a 3" turbo back, pod,9~10psi & mines ECU (just pours more fuel in) , Oh & standard coil packs... Daily driver 2 how was it running b4 you pulled the plugs?? Hany Chart VVV

looks good but has a 30 day trial limit or $$$ ( can't get it to work with ECUTalk log file either) I'm after a free/unrestricted setup Cheers

After spending days looking for a decent/free way to graph ECUTalk logs (without excel or datascan) I deceided a program was needed to convert ECUTalk logs to a more generic format. Mainly the time stamp which most LogViewers have difficulty with the existing format, they are now converted to the number of seconds from the start rather than a hhmmss format I know NewKleer is working on adding this type of feature to ECUTalk, however I've been know 2 be impatient ( 3 cheers 2 Peter for all his work ) Anywho, the converter is free to use, copy, share... you'll need Microsoft VB5 Runtime librarys if ya don't have them only known bug is with logs that span Midday or Midnight Download Here WinlogView is available HERE Preview

yep was an auto cheers