BundyBear

Hey skudR33... have you got access to anymore wiring diagrams by any chance...im putting a 95 2dr auto harness into a 93 4 soor (was manual) havong dramas with lights atm...havnt got to engine yet Anything would be legendary Cheers leith

Ive done more digging have gots: A/C works (blows, changes vents etc...No actual A/C mostly because theres no motor yet) clock and mirrors work hI/low bean works Brake lights work Rear indicaters only Front CDL works All windows work interior lights x3 donts Tail lights/parkers no go A/C and clock dont dim with parkers ?? little light on the key doesnt seem to work still dont have the passangers side harness in the engine bay so maybe thats why no front blinkers/driving lights??? but why no tail lights

Hey guys. after some serious guidance before I go digging Im building a r33 9/93 4 door up. it was a factory manual but I got a built auto at a good price so...... ive swapped the dash harness and the one from the drivers footwell to the front of the car. The rear harness is still original at this stage most things seem to work fine...except the back doors dont lock/unlock with the fronts.....Windows work fine even from the drivers door.... so Im guessing theres a missing wire of 2 in the dash harness to the main plug (near the gas pedal) anyone know which ones Im looking for.... the plan is to remove the bits I need from the old 4dr harness and splice into the 2dr one.... cheers Leith

adam just incase your still trying to fix..... i have a dinged door with the wireless CDL in it. your welcome to the unit and harness if you want it...im on the central coast NSW Leith {was going to include a couple of pics of the plug but this muppet of a system wont let me include pics (wrong type or something?? tried jpg png bmp.....gave up)....can pm or something if you need}

Hey jerome Was interested in the bonnet. But.was looking around the 150 mark to be honest...but could do 200 if you can meet near. Hornsby as im at the north end of the central coast. will have to send a mate down with my ute as im unlicenced atm Let me know if u interested Leith 0438808825

I think the GTR dashs go to 320. my gtst nismo cluster only goes to 300K. no idea where to get one, mine came with the car

Stock exhaust section. Good 4 rego or stock rebuilt Located Morisset . $80 or best offer Call Leith 0438808825

Hey. Interested in reco alterater. Sent u a sau message have $$can p\u next weekend Bundyzbitz @ gmail.co.....

spotted a black 33s1 (BB 63 ..) right infront ov me @ Berro, like the white 'SKYLINE' ont he back.. bit sad to see the stock rimz but

'GearWrench' Spanners 16/17mm one end 18/19mm the other (ie 18mm on side, 19mm the other side) + reversable Great to keep in the boot, half the tools = half the weight

spotted near Hexam Yesty

Conan if the caps drawing current it may have developed an interal short , a relay between the batt and the cap will switch it out but your limiting the current flow cause it goes throught the relay, with the little terminals and the like, your gona create other issues. I'd disconnect the cap 4 now. First I'd yank that boot light and see how the battery goes. the poping in the speakers, is cause there's a slight delay in the amps remoteline, that allows the amps IN the headunit to startup before the External amps are trigered, 2 options there 1 , take the remote line of the accesorys (back of the deck), and put a switch in . that way youl basicly turn on the key then the switch or 2, betta option, instead of a swtch as in option1 , put a 12V delay circuit in. I've seen a few on FleeBay, but if ya know anyone good with electronics they could whip ya something up. only needs around 1 second delay or a new deck I supose Cheers Bundy

yea kinda the same, but I'd just paid :-(> ($1.649 If memory serves)

Guess I was 2/3 then, few battle scars 3/3

you develop a fear of painted lines, every time it rains

spotted 1 x maroon R33 bottom of karions hill this morn 8:00 2 x maroon 33s1 & White R33 @ Wes gossy this avs 5:00 1 x maroon 33 gettn of the F3 Somersby, Fridy morn bout 8 that is all

Hey Mate If ya gona build your own start by contacting the manafacturer of the sub, and getting the 'recomended' Enclosure specs, depending on the sub youll get specs for sealed &/or ported &/or x order bandpass's. These realy are the best box for the sub (the Manaf have a huge R&D budget and know the sub betta than anyone). If your into soundsystems and know what Exactly what sound your after then use the 'recomended' as a starting point. as for the link above, those box specs ARE TO SUIT REAUDIO SUBS, if you have another brand these specs are useless. you'll need the Theil/Small peramaters of the sub, before you can start to design a custom box (not 4 the faint hearted). Best and easiest way, call the manafacturer, get their sujested box sizes. If you want loud bass build a ported box, if ya want good sounding bass build a sealed box. Given you said you wanted to free up boot space I'd sujest the ported box cause their usually smaller.

Sorry Dude but that just WRONG. Firstly the Amp is rated at 180W @ 4 Ohm, given that Ohms Law is P=(ExE)/R and R is halved then the total power output would be double, retaining the original 180W per sub. Therefore would deliver around 180W to EACH Sub, Wired in parallel as sujjested.

it's like a desease hey!!

I read as: 0x20 0x21 0x22 Temp sensors 0x42 target temp (ie display temp) 0x40 as a trim then again there's 0x26 sun load, could be a calculated value? & 29, 2A

OR give it 2 me 4 an hour. I'll FIX it..!!

fond of the unknown myself, but having the standard controls and consult access woult be very nice, best-O-both worlds yea can't leave God's country but ...hehe got a bro-inlaw up there but ... another 33

Simon bugga, can't recomend anyone else, bee'n 900K away and hav'n a habit of not recomending anyone I couldn't learn from, I'm out Someone in brizzy gata have had a box build latley!! ......bump bundy

At least for my 33 gtst, a positive definate maybee. in short, there are active tests for the doors (fresh/recycled air, dash/vent/foot) and fan test with 2 speed etc etc but you can only adjust the cabin temp by +-2 Deg (not enough) however the mysterious test 0x44, could easly set the temp and more ( the temp range could be covered in 5 bits, leaving 3 spare), I just havn't found any further info on ox44, or had the time to sus it out. the potential is high to hijack the A/C via Consult, however it does seem to fall in the 'just to easy' category attatched the file, see last page, last couple of lines Generic_Nissan_ECU_Sensor_or_Data_register_table_Ver_2.pdf Bundy ps piped by slow typing AGAIN !!

Basically not, you can control most of the A/C but not all (can move all the doors but limited temp and fan functions) HOWEVER ( there is a single 8Bit register in the A/Cs Active tests, that is undocumented, and has the potental to be able to control the fan and temp), Info Source: Google ==> "Generic_Nissan_ECU_Sensor_or_Data_register_table_Ver_2.pdf" published by the 'Nissan Tech Group' Last page, Reg 0x44 says 'see Table' but the table is not included. Susing out this reg is on my todo list, but its a long list