arsnic_apple

The point of doing this exercise is to prolong the life of the motor and not have to do a full rebuild. It also hasn't gone 27 years with a big single hanging off the side haha. There's a few guys over here who have done the same mods and made big power and their motors have survived a long time with a decent beating, although they didn't have to do the crank as they had later model motors. I have an e85 set up that I'm about halfway through putting in at the moment and was looking to do some supporting mods so it doesn't just die. When the time comes for a proper rebuild I'll be able to reuse the sump and oil pump anyway so isn't a loss there.

The motor has only done 100,000kms so I wouldn't think that it would be too worn. If it were only going to cost me a couple of hundred extra I'd be happy to throw some new bearings in at the same time (would it really be worth putting new rings in?). I'm just not keen on spending thousands and thousands on a full rebuild right now (forged pistons, rods etc etc).

Haha I can see what you're saying. Does the crank require machining to fit the crank collar? I suppose the bearings are right there and aren't a great expense to change, are they as simple as just old ones put and new ones in, or is there machining required to ensure all the clearances are correct.

Crank Collar Install Hi guys, I'm looking to install an aftermarket oil pump, sump and head studs to try and extend the life of my standard 26 bottom end. However as my block is an 89 it needs the extended crank collar to run the aftermarket oil pump. Is it possible to pull the crank out and install the crank collar and put it back in without having to do a rebuild on the bottom end? Cheers

Hi guys, Have a mate looking for a r33 gtr in the gloss red colour, not the burgundy red. Located in WA but don't mind if car is interstate. Pm if you have something. Cheers

This is it here http://www.powerhouseracing.com/p-4597-phr-fuel-hat-for-nissan-240sx-s14-skyline-r33-r34.aspx Im thinking that normal R32 must be different to GTR and they didnt know this because 32R's havent been legal there for very long and therefore didnt know any better?

Hey guys, Recently just purchased a powerhouse racing dual in tank fuel hat for my 32 gtr. Before ordering it I asked them of it'd work with the factory fuel gauge and they said yes. I've now received the fuel hat and cannot see how it is going to work with the sender, has anyone else installed a similar setup and got the factory fuel gauge sender setup. I know powertune were doing a similar setup at one stage if anyone has used one of those. Cheers

Haha maybe we he computer is getting mixed up between HP and kW. But screen was definitely saying hp

I can see what your saying with comparing dynos, I'm just concerned because the variance is so large. In terms of boost leaks, couldn't hear anything when it was on the dyno and held boost fine. I'll have a closer look at the intercoooler pipes and stuff anyway. Car was serviced probably less than 2k ago. Good tyres and good clutch. He has just had another gtr on there, had - 5's, similar cams and 17psi...made 370? Does this sound about right or should it be more also?

Hi guys, Recently had my 32 Gtr on the dyno to fix an unrelated boost controller issue which has now been solved. However the problem is my car has lost roughly 150hp since it was first tuned. Specs of my setup Stock 26 motor Type B Poncams 3582R All supporting mods, Exhaust, Fuel etc. It was tuned on a hub dyno originally and made 510hp at the rear. Just recently my tuner has bought his own roller dyno which is what my car has recently been on. Obviously you expect some power loss because of the different dyno (he has a few other cars which have been on the same hub dyno as mine and they have experience about a 10% drop in figures). So now im trying to figure out how my car has gone from 510 all the way down to 365. I have checked the following things; -Ive removed each piece of the exhaust and checked for blockages and there is none (no cat) -Ive done a compression test, 152-158 across all cylinders -Ive taken the timing cover off and rotated the engine until the timing marks on the cam gears lined up with those on the head. Not sure if there is a way of me getting the motor to TDC without being able to see the gear at the bottom to ensure i have checked that the belt has not skipped a tooth? The belt and tensioners etc. were changed prior to the car first getting tuned. When the car was on the dyno there were no obvious reasons as to why the car had lost power. It held boost fine, AFR stayed constant...Tuner said between 7 and 8k rpm it started to break down a little which may be because of the stock coil packs, but couldnt cause 150hp difference. I've run out of ideas and its doing my head in, so any suggestions would be great. Thanks

Currently my setup is as follows: RB26 - standard bottom end Tomei type b cams 3inch exhaust GT3582R 19psi and all the other bits and pieces to go with it Now i made 510rwhp, my tuner took the torque figure because he sais it was pretty useless. From others graphs Ive seen with the same turbo the torque has been around the 500 mark. My question is, if i change back to say -5's and put my car on e85 will i make the same power but heaps more torque? Most -5 setups Ive been seeing are all 700+ with some making just over 1000 with around the same 500hp figure And then have the other obvious advantages like legality. The car is a street car but I would like to get into a track day here and there and would really just like to get the most out of it. No point having the high mount single when i could have better results with the twins and still look legal under the bonnet. Am i on the right track?

First of all I was unsure what section this was in, so if this is the wrong place please move. I've got a 32 GTR and I'm getting the front guards rolled tomorrow. My question is, what do I do with the fender liners? Does everyone just chuck these in the bin or are you still able to refit them afterwards? Thanks, Blake

Yeah i have the mindset that I'll have to build the motor eventually and to be honest the car really doesn't see a real hard life. Simon you did oil pump gears and bigger sump if i remember correctly? Did you change these yourself?

So do you personally think it's worth pulling the motor out just to do the same oiling mods that you did and chucking in some new head studs and head gasket? Haha your recent results Simon was what inspired me to put mine on e85

What tends to break on these at this power level? Do they normally just spin a big end or do they throw a rod out the side of the block haha? Im running a 35r at the moment with just over 500hp and was thinking about changing to e85 for a bit more but a bit unsure if its going to hold up to the extra power or not and what will break if it doesnt.

My 32R made 510hp at the rear on a hub dyno with pretty minimal mods; -Std bottom end -3582r -260 degree Poncams -350lph walbro -Haltech -1000CC injectors -manifold nothing special -std intercooler -3" turbo back exhaust Thats about it really, made that power on 19psi, 98 octane.

Still searching

Hello, Looking for some r34 GTR Brembo Calipers for a friend. Interested in a good condition set. Located in WA so would rather pick up only Please PM and let me know what you've got and how much. Thanks

Awesome! I'll pm it to you :-)

Hey guys, Bit of a long shot and probably dreaming but I'm looking for the Panasport g7 c5c2's for my gtr. Looking for the size close to 18x10.5 +22's or close too. If there's anyone out there that has some, send me a Pm with what you have. Thanks, Blake

Sweet thanks GTSboy. The car currently has Ksport and whiteline sway bars front and rear so those aspects should be alright. As far as tierod ends and ball joints go should i be only looking at genuine nissan or are there particular aftermarket brands that you guys prefer. In regard to the adjustable upper arms at the front, should i be using something like cusco? I had a look on nengun and it seems that they have a few different sizes like +5mm or -5mm, are these non-adjustable or is this what i should be looking at getting? On alot of the sites ive been coming across a lot of these "roll centre adjusters", just wanted to know what they are all about and if they are needed also. In terms of bushes im pretty sure they have been changed (they are green in colour) but ill double check to make sure. Ive seen that various places make solid subframe bushes also, are these worth going for or should i just look to replace with polyurethane ones if need be? Thanks, Blake

Mostly street with the odd track day. Legality i can deal with so dont worry about that sort of thing. Would rather it be good a tight stuff like chicanes and tighter corners and such, rather than long sweeping corners. Rims are 18x9.5", tyres are Nitto Invo 245-40, compared to the set of toyo t1r that were on there to start with they have a lot more grip. As far as tail happy id like a little bit but probably lean more towards safer. Made 510hp so tail happy is achievable with a safe setup probably anyway. Yeah putting in the lock bar and pulling all the solenoids and stuff out. Is there much benefit to changing the entire subframe?

Hey Guys, Have been trying to do some research on what good suspension bits are good to buy but i just keep getting caught up in all the technical mumbo jumbo. Im basically planning to take out all my hicas gear soon and obviously will need a wheel allignment after that, thinking i might as well get some adjustable bits and pieces to improve the handling a bit. So basically i'm wanting to know what are the most important bits of suspension that i should buy to improve the handling before taking the car to get an allignment? Blake

Price drop. $400

Sorry, Located in Perth, WA