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ianp

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Everything posted by ianp

  1. Amazing, thank you
  2. Hi All Does anyone know what size bolts are used to mount the bonnet hinge to the bonnet on an R32 GTR please? I'd usually just buy them OEM but they are nearly £20 each and I need all 4
  3. Its likely to be 70% road 30% track usage, track usage will increase if anything. Decided not to fit it as I cant be arsed changing the bushes on my LCAs again 🤣 I did get the below back from GKTech though so they should work together The anti-squat kit and roll center adjusters work independently since they change the rear lower control arm's angle in different ways. The anti-squat kit adjusts the angle from front to back, which impacts anti-squat values. Roll center adjusters change the angle side to side, mainly to correct geometry on cars that are significantly lowered. They might affect each other a tiny bit, but overall, you can think of them as separate.
  4. Ah, that does change things then as I have Nismo LCA's with Superpro poly bushes fitted. Frame is out of the car as I still need to weld in the reinforcement plates before painting my frame and fitting the new bushes.
  5. Hi All Finally getting back to work on the R32 this weekend and had a quick question about the GKTech anti squat kit (https://au.gktech.com/products/s13-180sx-r32-subframe-anti-squat-reduction-weld-in-kit?_pos=39&_fid=eb6b5077e&_ss=c) So, this straightens out the rear LCA and increases the roll centre by 20MM which is great BUT I also have MFR roll centre adjusters (https://www.rhdjapan.com/moonface-super-lap-rc-joint-roll-center-adjuster-bnr32-ps13-rps13.html) which gives a +15MM lift. My question is whether they can/should be used together or if its going to massively effect the geometry? In my mind, I can't see that they work together but was hoping for some feedback on someone who has done this before deciding which to use or if both? Thanks
  6. Been going back and forth on these for the past year. I like them but also thinks it makes the front end look a bit goofy.
  7. Received what should be the final delivery for the rear overhaul. Only thing I still need to buy is a Nismo diff but that can wait a little longer Also need to get some sheet metal to put some strengthening plates into the Nismo A-Arms - Seems strange the 33/34 Nismo arms have them but the 32 doesn't The Nismo bushes (Rear lower A-Arms & Upper Links) will be for sale soon because I bought Superpro ones instead Bosch ABS sensors to match the PRP ABS adaptors
  8. I like these 2 pics of mine
  9. Got quoted £50 per knuckle to vapor hone them, so bought a sand blasting cabinet and did it myself Pretty happy with the first attempt I didn't get a before picture, I was too excited to use my new toy The knuckle was pretty much black though when I started
  10. Its been a while since the last update, I've been collecting parts to overhaul the suspension - Most of the bits have arrived, theres still a few bits to come in the next few weeks and still to order I started by overhauling the ATTESA unit I stripped it down, Cleaned the main unit and replaced all O-rings, bolts, Accumulator, Pressure Switch and painted a few bits And done! For anyone swapping the accumulator, a 3-inch socket makes life a hell of a lot easier And a big pile of parts ready to go on, with more still to come over the next few weeks 😐
  11. I had Cuscos on both of my 350Z's, brilliant piece of kit, loved them. IMO suspension parts are one of the items not to cheap out on
  12. I'd buy the Midori one that's for sale in the for sale section 🤣
  13. It only needed a spacer because it was the Nismo struts with the external resevoir, if it had been regular coilovers, it probably would have been ok
  14. They were 19*11 +25 with a 10mm spacer to clear the shocks. Tyres from memory were 295/35/19
  15. Ignore the monster truck ride hide, I messed up on the offsets and widths and ended up ditching them a few weeks later when my coilovers didnt fit
  16. I had 295s on mine when I had a 34 and they didn't rub and that was with Nismo coilovers
  17. Had a change of plan on my HICAS set up so have for sale a Midori Seibi canceller kit. Its not been used but has been test fitted Based in the UK but shipping to Australia is no problem £230 delivered to Australia (I think its about 450AUD :))
  18. The Daily - 2011 Audi A5 And the camper VW transporter T5
  19. That looks incredible 😍 I like yellow, The wife says its stupid and that I'm nearly 40 and too old to drive bright yellow cars 🤣 All good feedback on the colours and certainly some interesting options! Rebuild is pretty deep but if your gonna do it, do it right the first time - besides, I'll never sell this car so might as well do it right
  20. Part 3 My car was away for almost 3 months, mostly due to issues their end with compressors and the amount of work they had on. I'm not 100% happy with the work that was done and some of it will need redoing when it comes to the paint stage. Car was blasted back to bare metal (Except roof, doors & rear quarters as the metal was too thin to blast), rust was repaired with new metal patched in & then it was etch primed to give it some protection. I don't have as many photos of the strip down as I would have liked but there are some This is the part I am least happy with, I don't think the repair follows the lines of the rear arch as nicely as I would have liked. the majority is hidden away when the rear spats are fitted but I think I will probably end up replacing the rear quarter eventually just so that its perfect. Back home and into the garage That brings us up to October 23, I tore my ACL last September, so haven't done much since, its only the last 2 weeks that I have made any progress other than buying parts. I still need to decide on a colour. OEM grey, CRS Grey, Pearl White or British Racing Green are my current choices although my daughter wants me to paint it yellow and as tempting as that is, I'm not sure the 32 suits it. Until I decide on the colour, I am just bolting everything back on to make sure I have everything I need to complete, I also need to decided if I am going to seam weld it or not.
  21. Part 2 I've spent much of the past 3 years collecting parts to complete the build. I think the only OEM parts I need other than the odd bracket and nut/bolt are the ABS sensors. Progress has been slow, I've lost nearly a year of work on the car between having surgery to remove my gallbladder, a torn ACL & a couple of months where the car was away at a restoration "specialist" for sand blasting & welding. I wont bore you with photos of parts bought, You can check my Instagram for those 😜 The first thing to do was to get the car up on the ramp and strip is completely to see exactly what I was working with, it turned out to be a lot better than I was expecting. I had been speaking with a couple of different restoration places before deciding on my choice who came very highly recommended by local enthusiasts. We agreed that I would strip the car completely (Windows, sound deadening & as much underseal as possible) before sending the car so them. 🤬 Happened on both sides, thankfully the seals were knackered anyway so needed to replace the whole thing anyway Sound deadening was a 🤬 of a job, never doing that again, took weeks to get it this clean Next up its off to the specialist who are going to media blast the car, repair any rust and weld in new patches of metal where needed & prime the car to protect it until I've decided what colour to paint it & whether I want to seam weld it or not. - Ignore the Honda wheels, it was all I had spare that fit to get it rolling 😛
  22. I had an R34 GTR about 15 years ago but sold it to raise a deposit for a house, Since then I've had a TT Supra, 2JZ 350Z, R33 GTR, Impreza STI, Twin Turbo 350Z and an S14a. Back in 2021, the S14a just wasn't scratching the itch and I wanted another GTR, I wanted a forever GTR. I couldn't afford to buy an R34. Ideally I wanted a 33 but as I had never owned a 32, I kind wanted one to complete the collection I sold my S14 but couldn't afford a running GTR, especially when I was just going to rip it apart and spend a fortune building it my way. I also didn't want a 30K rust bucket that would need a fortune spending on it. I had the space, I had the time & with the wife soon to be restarting work after maternity leave & then redundancy - I had a bit more money. I found an R32 rolling shell in the midlands and it looked relatively clean so I dragged my dad along and went to look at it. It was in decent condition, rear drivers side wheel arch had the worst of the rust along with a bit on both sills. Underneath was covered in underseal but it passed the "screwdriver test" Agreed a deal on what I thought was a good price & arranged for it to be picked up a couple of days later
  23. Further update. Ali Express parts didn't fit, retainer clip was too short. Spoke to local Ferrari dealer, They sourced them within a couple of days for me & perfect fit Cheaper than LPI too!
  24. For anyone wondering Stock lines work, using my GKTech ABS delete kit lines and they fit. The only place that advertises they sell the pins and retainers are LPI above & they don't ship outside of the US. All other Brembo suppliers I reached out to either ignored me or couldn't get them. Found a set on Ali Express (Don't judge!) so will try them and see
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