Scotsman

Newton will have a few to add, mostly regarding queue jumping and sausage purchasing.

The compliance cat is probably your biggest enemy. Generally they use the cheapest cat they can get and often they are not even new. Therefore the flow of the cat is probably less than factory one from Japan. I know with mine the cat was like a 2" opening pipe and flange and as soon as I got rid of it power returned. I'd say get a good cat or "customise" your cat if it's a good size, adn this should return the car to stock power.

1st Post updated with results from Round 1. Thanks Kev, was just forwarding on information provided by the WRX club. Of course if your an SAU member you would obviously goto a Driver Dynamics day....

I know what your trying to say here, but surely you mean a GTR is harder to drive fast than say the EVO or STI. I think the EVO and STI are more forgiving to drive than the GTR. They are lighter and seem to recover easier. They seem to be better braked because of their weight. (in standard form of course) The EVO can just be pointed and planted and this is all you need to know. Not the case with a GTR. And since were throwing insults around, I think the GTST is actually the meat head car. lol Because it takes more skill to know and understand what the GTR is doing. A RWD will just oversteer or understeer and that's all you have to deal with. But a good GTR driver will know that they can enter with slight understeer and push their car into oversteer by utilizing the 4WD. You need to know how the GTR can kick if you get it all wrong. GTR drivers will know that pulling the wheel and pointing more in wards into a corner wont be the final direction you exit the corner as forcing some four wheel slide will give you the best drive out of the corner. This is because you are on boost earlier and you have four wheels scrambling for traction, and this points the GTR in the direction you want to go better. Or you can just point and steer a GTR and use 80% of it's potential.

I agree that some GTR are easy to drive fast, because they are fast. I don't agree that GTR's are easy to drive to their full potential. As they do spit many people off the track. True ABS can save you from cooking a set of tyres or over braking and loosing it into an armco. True when the torque is sent to the front of the car this can get a GTR back on track quicker and loose less time than a RWD car doing the same bad manouver. However, a true 'quick lap' on the edge will not use these 'GTR' features and requires the full attention of the driver. When you are man handling a 1700kg whale around a track at speeds you need precision and the faster you and the car get the harder it gets. The more money you put into the car the harder it gets to drive it balls to the wall. Put it this way 'easy' isn't a valid description of lap when I get behind the wheel.

Pft - Nice lap you hack!

Dude - Your so quick on the oppo lock. There was at least four times in that vid that your car would have spat me off the black stuff. Very quick reflexes. One of the main reasons I let you drive my car. Nice work.

Nice work Matt. We might need to get you on board as the official SAU camera man. Seeing the Datto makes me want to get the gemini out there.

Agreed on the above. I think last year the WRX club were not going to allow DT @ Phillip Island at the start of the year. But in the end I sent them an email asking for confirmation and they allowed it. Hence why the 2nd post says you can do Phillips Island as your first event. But the preferance is you do some other track / murcots day first.

Lol - That's exactly what I was going to say. And he needs to keep his bad influences away from this years number one team. I've already banned newton from VB long necks. Not that it seemed to slow him down any. I just feared for my cars structural integrity.

Yeah you guys got me. I actually believed he had done the 1.19 when I got the SMS from Bris, because I know Newton is a crazy man. But I should have known that GTST's aren't capable of sub 1m20's

Cages are fine mate. Just not considered a standard modification. We don't want to discourage people from using a cage, as this is obviously a major safety item. But we just figure if your car is serious enough to put a cage in, then your intentions aren't to keep it a standard car. If you follow... Therefore this mod puts you in modified class. But I don't think this is what you are asking. As for Jap cages i'm not 100% on the exact rulings, but L2S days specify all cages need to meet CAMS requirements. So I guess you may need to investigate if your jap cage meets CAMS minimum requirements for a safe cage. This will all come down to the scrutineers rulings on the day I guess. So it's not something SAU will police. Hope I have answered your question mate. Furthur information could be obtained from CAMS manual / website, or have a chat with a CAMS scrutineer.

Should I bring the super wagon and make this a three way stock shootout? P.S Scott will looooose.

My advise would be take the car to a workshop who knows GTR's and get an inspection done prior to handing over any cash. I would rate this higher than say an RACV check. But if that's the only option then go with the full RACV check.

Yeah - I'm not commiting to anything this year until I have a sponsor on board.

Yeah we will see if we can do a lowest power winnar, amungst some other fun things and organise some little prizes for the winners (or loosers) Again it's all meant to be just for fun.

Troy when your done with her/him can you post up some pics and or vids. Thanks. PS - Mav likes being whipped on stage. Might be worth including him in the Video.

Cool - Looks like we might have a good turn out. I'll perhaps run my car too.

I used snow tyres once before on the GTR @ DECA and they were slippery. But not in a good way. I thought snow tyres are designed to work @ a very low temperature to suit ice / snow conditions. Therefore they go off a lot quicker. So wont ripping skids @ DECA just delaminate the tyres very quickly. I know mine didn't last long @ high temperatures.

Please note the additional class created in the SAU-Vic Track Championship. Class F - For Pre 1989 vehicles. Also note that DECA will not be a 4 part championship this year. - There will still be four possible opportunity's to attend DECA Days (2xSAU Normal DECA's, 1x SAU DECA Masters, 1x WRX DECA) - This change to the usual 4x DECA's is due to the SAU motorsport committee wanting to try some new things in 2008 and will need this time to plan these new events. We are investigating the possibility of a Broadford Fun Day amungst some other new motorsport ideas. Stay tuned.

Championship Scoring & Points System SAU Track Championship 1st Fastest time in Class - 10 Points 2nd Fastest time in Class - 6 Points 3rd Fastest time in Class - 4 Points 4th Fastest time in Class - 3 Points 5th Fastest time in Class - 2 Points 6th Fastest time in Class - 1 Point There needs to be at least 3 people representing a class in each round for maximum points to be scored, otherwise 1st can only receive a maximum score equal to 2nd place which is 6 Points. Two championship rounds are able to be dropped from the score before a total is achieved, this will be the worst scoring round from the entrant, or an event not attended. DECA Rounds Each Sub-Event of the Event will be scored individually. Points will be awarded in order of finishing from highest to lowest as follows: 1st = 50 points, 2nd = 49 points, 3rd = 48 points, 4th = 47 points etc, and so on down to the last competitor. All points from each sub event are accumulated and a total is created with the highest score winning. Classes are AWD and RWD. Penalties: Hit Cone (Make a cone move from it's spot) = +5 Seconds Per Cone Missed Gate/Cone (Wrong Direction) = Slowest Time + 10 Seconds. Did Not Finish = Slowest Time +10 Seconds Did Not Complete Full Course = Slowest Time +10 Seconds (Missed more than 3 Cones) Did Not Start = No Score - Nil points

Track Etiquette Passing It is the obligation of the passer (faster car) to make the pass. Do not erratically brake or move off the racing line without first signalling to the faster vehicle behind you. Signaling If you want a faster vehicle to pass you, signal with a clear hand pointing to the side on which you wish to be passed. If you want them to pass on the left, then signal over the roof of your vehicle. Do not use indicators to signal passing. Flag Signals Flags will be used at designated points around the circuits. Yellow flag: The yellow flag signals a situation of danger ahead. Drivers must slow down and show extreme caution. Drivers may not overtake other vehicles until they have passed the green flag. Green Flag: All clear signal. It is used at the end of the danger area controlled by yellow flags. Drivers may continue on at race speed. It can also be used to signal the start of a warm-up lap or practice session. Blue flag: Overtaking signal. The blue flag informs the driver that he is about to overtaken by one or more faster cars. When the flag is waved, it draws the driver’s attention either to the closeness of the car about to overtake him, or to the high speed at which it is approaching. The blue flag can be shown motionless when the faster car is still some distance away but approaching quickly. Red Flag: Stopping the race. The red flag will be shown at all posts on the circuit when the Clerk of the Course has decided to stop the race or practice session due to a hazard effecting the course. All drivers must stop racing immediately and proceed to the pit area. Drivers must exercise extreme caution and being prepared to stop if necessary and be aware of the possability of support vehicles on the track. Black Flag: Return to the pit area. The black flag is usually shown at the Start / Finish line by the Clerk of Course or his marshal. The flag will be shown whilst your vehicle is being pointed at. This informs the driver they must return to the pit area immediately and report to the Clerk of Course. Chequered Flag: Denotes end of session. Use the remaining lap to cool the car and return to the pit area.

Vehicle Requirements - Fire Extinguisher (AS1841, AS1846 or AS1848, Minimum of 900grams) Securely fastened with a metal bracket and reachable by the driver from the drivers seat. - Valve Caps (Preferably metal) - Boot / Cockpit - Must be free from all loose articles - Headlights - Any forward facing glass must be covered by tape or contact (This only effects R31 and R32's in the Skyline Range) - Roll Cages - Must be CAMS approved - Bonnet Catches - All rear-hinged bonnets must have an additional independent non-flexible strap fitted. Permanent straps/pins attached to the bonnet are not necessary. It is acceptable to tie the bonnet down with light rope. Bonnet Pins are also accepted.

R-Spec Tyres Explained Competition Street Legal Radial's (Dot Approved Semi - Competition) In other words they are sticky / soft compound List of known R Spec Tyres - UTQG Bridgestone Potenza RE55 - 40 Bridgestone Potenza RE520S - Yokohamma Advan A048 - 60AA Yokohamma Advan A032R - 60AA Dunlop D98J Dunlop D01J Dunlop D02J Dunlop D93J Toyo Proxes RA1 - 40AA Toyo Proxes R888 - 50AA BFG G Force T/A R1 - 0AA Michelin Pilot Cup - 80AA Hoosier A3S03/R3S04 - 40AC Avon Tech R-A Kumho VictoRacer V700 - 50AA Kumho Ecsta V700 - 50AA Pirelli P Zero C Pirelli P Zero Corsa List of soft compound street tyres - UTQG Federal 595RS - 180AA Falken Azenis RT615 - 200AA Toyo Trampio R1-R - 100AA Nitto NT-555R Drag - 100AA UTQG = Treadwear, Traction, Temperature Treadwear - The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test track. A tire graded 200 would wear twice as long on the government test course under specified test conditions as one graded 100. Traction - Traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B and C. They represent the tire's ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. Traction Grades Asphalt (g force) Concrete (g force) AA - Above 0.54 - Above 0.41 A - Above 0.47 - Above 0.35 B - Above 0.38 - Above 0.26 C - Less Than 0.38 - Less Than 0.26 Temperature - The temperature grades, from highest to lowest, are A, B and C. These represent the tire's resistance to the generation of heat Temperature Grades Speeds (in mph) A - Over 115 B - Between 100 to 115 C - Between 85 to 100

Information for Beginers Personal Requirements - Safety helmet (AS1698 standard) in good condition (ie. free of dents and scratches). - Gloves are optional. - Leather or suede footwear must completely cover the foot and be firmly fitted. No sandals or thongs allowed. - Driver apparel must cover the body from ankle to neck including up to the wrists. Long sleeved and flame-resistant clothing is mandatory. Wool is best but cotton overalls or trousers and shirts are also suitable. Race-type overalls are not necessary. Driver Training – Is not absolutely required, but SAU recommends you make your first track day a driver training day. There is a lot to take in and you wont post a quick time on your first outing. Driver training sessions won't be timed and you will only be on the track with other driver training vehicles. You will have the chance to have an instructor with you, this will typically be another club member who has some track experience. Driver training costs slightly less than the normal sprint days (You wont get to compete in the super sprints at the end of the day) If you choose to 'not' do driver training as your first event, just place yourself in a slow group and spent the first half of the day following slower cars and learning the racing lines before trying to go off on your own and improve times. Phillip Island Sprints: You can do driver training at Phillip Island as your first event, and if your instructor believes you are skilled enough he can allow you to participate in sprints after speaking to the clerk of course and making that recomendation. If Phillip Island is your first 'sprint' event you will need to provide details of an advanced driver training certificate.