BCCairns

First off sorry about the fonts cut and paste makes it go crazy. I would really appreciate your two cents on a few stud and gasket purchases before I fork out cash. Looking at Kudos motorsport they supply two brands of exhaust gaskets for a rs4s which are either the Cometic Multi-Layered Steel (MLS) Exhaust Manifold Gasket. at $ 77 or Genuine Nissan gasket at $110. Any recommendation or experience with the cometic gasket? With the exhaust studs i'm even more unsure. Kudos motorsport only sells a kit for $140 which includes everything (listed below) or I can go to justjap and buy Genuine Nissan Exhaust Manifold Stud - Nissan RB20/RB25 for $2.65 Each, but they don't stock the washers, nuts and yokes. If I would rolling in the cash I would just get the kit but I'm thinking of reusing yokes and washes and buying generic bolts from local bolt shop. Is this a bad idea? Genuine Nissan Exhaust Stud Kit, Included Are The Following: 12 x Genuine Nissan Exhaust Manifold Studs 12 x Genuine Nissan Exhaust Manifold Washers 12 x Genuine Nissan Exhaust Manifold Nuts 08 x Genuine Nissan Exhaust Manifold Yokes (Cly 1,2,4 & 6) 04 x Genuine Nissan Exhaust Manifold Yokes (Cly 3 & 4 Also replacing the turbo gaskets and kudos motorsport has a genuine nissan kit that includes all below for $99 or I can get a Permaseal Turbo Gasket Set for $77 which does not include the copper crush washer and locking tabs 1 x Genuine Nissan Turbine Inlet Gasket (Manifold to Turbo) 1 x Genuine Nissan Turbine Outlet Gasket (Turbo to Dump Pipe) 1 x Genuine Nissan Compressor Outlet Gasket (Turbo to Cooler Piping) 1 x Genuine Nissan Oil Drain Gasket 2 x Genuine Nissan Turbo to Manifold Locking Tabs 1 x Genuine Nissan Copper Crush Washer Kit So all up if I went everything Nissan with all the complete kits is would be $350. If I went Cometic exhaust gasket and permaseal turbo gaskets and bought 12 studs individually with bolts at a bolt shop it would come in at around $180 but I would reuse washes and yokes. Is going non genuine and saving $170 a bad idea? Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks Qwk your a champ. I really appreciate you taking the time to go through that. It's nice to have a good idea of the job before tearing everything down. Cheers again.

Cheers Qwk and Aaron. Thanks for the heads up on those ebay studs I'll look into them. Was just going to get the justjap ones. I'm not to sure how good my Exhaust Manifold gaskets are so i'm toying with the idea of replacing if i'm going to go to the effort of replacing studs.. Qwk do you know if there is enough movement to do it without removing the turbo, if not I suppose I will do the turbo studs and gaskets as well. cheers for ya advice.

Sorry to bring up old post but planning to check and possibly replace exhaust manifold studs. You reckon this method would work. http://www.ehow.com/how_5529323_remove-manifold-stud-toyota-truck.html General jist wined on two nuts one on in reverse and turn inside nut. Would be interested to get anybodies two cents on the method.

Yeah I'm not in too much of a hurry, still got to free up some coin with the wife so im happy to sit tight a bit before contacting and organsing the board with Mat. I like the idea of a preloaded tune, def worth looking into, my mods are pretty standard 3" system, FMIC, boost control. Ideally I will hear something back from the 2 workshops I emailed up here, so I know how much i need to outlay for the board and tune. The 2 places I emailed about Nistune and cost for tune are http://www.svscairns.com.au/ and http://www.claservices.com.au . If I don't hear anything I will give them a buzz when im ready to go.

Ahh damn =(

I know I might be pushing my luck but is anybody aware of any Nistune tuners in Cairns. I've checked Nistune site and googled around and nothing. In the last few days I've shot a few emails to workshops with 4wd dynos but I'm still waiting on replies.

Let me know how you go.... I'm still mucking around with the impact of removing the top line from the boost solenoid. I definitely found the boost is building up quicker and the car is quicker in the lower rev range. Previously it was like the car had long legs and started to boggie later in the rev range. Let me know how u go.

:D It's a new car!!!!!!!! being my first turbo car I didn't know what to expect.. I just thought it took ages to build boost but it looks like I just had a massive boost leak cos that solenoid was still connected on the top hose... Looks like SA user I bought the car from just hooked up the boost controller wrong, man i reckon if he knew he would spew.. With this hose plugged it builds boost in a instant and man it is way more responsive!!!! Look like this could be the reason I couldn't run above 7.5psi I will do some more tests over the weekend... All I have to say is F$u)K yeah, you all rule and thanks for your responses and help... Tom cheers again u rule.....

Sweet ill give it a go today and let you know.

So I'm willing to be labeled a slow learner to get this right I didn't install my boost controller and I want to ensure it was done right.. So... Below are 2 pics. One shows the Boost Solenoid and you see the top line is still connected and is plumbed in just above the pod intake. (Is this right??? Reading this re r33 install it doesn't seem right.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/In...st-t183405.html The other photo shows where the boost controller is plumbed in x mark the spot where the line starts then it goes the T piece (its hard to get a photo due to lines running everywhere) and that runs to the wastegate actuator - Im sure thats right. So should I disconnect and block that hose to the top of the solenoid? Would this be conflicting with the after market boost control? Cheers again.. Been a nice crash course in bits and pieces re turobs

Ahh cheers Aaron im slowly piecing this together.

Ahh cheers Duncan didn't know the solenoid was removed from the circuit when a boost control was installed (to point out the obvious ' its my first turbo car' =) As far as description it's like 2 v.quick subtle loses of power between 4500 and 6500 seems to power through after the power loss... Boost gauge seem to flutter around 7 to 8 pound mark. So far my testing has been limited to 30 mins of driving, tying to up the boost one click at a time until the above described prob happens. I think ill seal my coil packs on the weekend(as i think this could also be an issue). If it still happens ill try below, who knows just mite help. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/By...mp;hl=boost+mod

From what I'm reading in various SAU threads the boost solenoid on a RS4S bleeds of boost that is higher the ~7.5psi, and this is controlled by the ECU. My understanding is you can A) Get ECU management and tune it out b) Install some type of boost control c) Earth the solenoid out but run the risk of infinite boost, (but u can remove the risk by installing boost control?) I have a TurboSmart duel stage boost control, and when I try to adjust the high boost with 1 or 2 clicks up from 7-8psi, I get a hesitation and it doesn't boost past 7psi (which I now think is a boost bleed off, not coils) As I have duel stage boost control is it safe for me to earth out the solenoid?? I really would like to run 10psi maybe even 11psi.. I would really appreciate if Rs4s owners could let me know if you experienced this problem with boost past 7psi and how you manage it. Or even if your RS4S had this issue Thanks heaps and for all those that have helped out with my recent posts... You rule =) Mods FMIC, 3 inch from manifold, duel stage turbo timer.

Sound like a plan, I'll do these coils then worry about getting to 10+psi.. I forgot to mention in mods I do have 3"inch system from the manifold (*blames forgetting to mention earlier on new born baby distractions =) I've been searching the forums and it seems like something is fishy with Rs4 s and getting the boost above 7 psi due to sensitive ecu and boost limiter solenoid so thats a likely cause of my new higher boost problem. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Bo...43#entry4940243 think i mite have to get a nisstune if i want to get to 10psi. or do that plug the tube to solenoid mod but im not so sure how safe that is ? thanks again, for ya help ppl