BCCairns

First off sorry about the fonts cut and paste makes it go crazy. I would really appreciate your two cents on a few stud and gasket purchases before I fork out cash. Looking at Kudos motorsport they supply two brands of exhaust gaskets for a rs4s which are either the Cometic Multi-Layered Steel (MLS) Exhaust Manifold Gasket. at $ 77 or Genuine Nissan gasket at $110. Any recommendation or experience with the cometic gasket? With the exhaust studs i'm even more unsure. Kudos motorsport only sells a kit for $140 which includes everything (listed below) or I can go to justjap and buy Genuine Nissan Exhaust Manifold Stud - Nissan RB20/RB25 for $2.65 Each, but they don't stock the washers, nuts and yokes. If I would rolling in the cash I would just get the kit but I'm thinking of reusing yokes and washes and buying generic bolts from local bolt shop. Is this a bad idea? Genuine Nissan Exhaust Stud Kit, Included Are The Following: 12 x Genuine Nissan Exhaust Manifold Studs 12 x Genuine Nissan Exhaust Manifold Washers 12 x Genuine Nissan Exhaust Manifold Nuts 08 x Genuine Nissan Exhaust Manifold Yokes (Cly 1,2,4 & 6) 04 x Genuine Nissan Exhaust Manifold Yokes (Cly 3 & 4 Also replacing the turbo gaskets and kudos motorsport has a genuine nissan kit that includes all below for $99 or I can get a Permaseal Turbo Gasket Set for $77 which does not include the copper crush washer and locking tabs 1 x Genuine Nissan Turbine Inlet Gasket (Manifold to Turbo) 1 x Genuine Nissan Turbine Outlet Gasket (Turbo to Dump Pipe) 1 x Genuine Nissan Compressor Outlet Gasket (Turbo to Cooler Piping) 1 x Genuine Nissan Oil Drain Gasket 2 x Genuine Nissan Turbo to Manifold Locking Tabs 1 x Genuine Nissan Copper Crush Washer Kit So all up if I went everything Nissan with all the complete kits is would be $350. If I went Cometic exhaust gasket and permaseal turbo gaskets and bought 12 studs individually with bolts at a bolt shop it would come in at around $180 but I would reuse washes and yokes. Is going non genuine and saving $170 a bad idea? Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks Qwk your a champ. I really appreciate you taking the time to go through that. It's nice to have a good idea of the job before tearing everything down. Cheers again.

Cheers Qwk and Aaron. Thanks for the heads up on those ebay studs I'll look into them. Was just going to get the justjap ones. I'm not to sure how good my Exhaust Manifold gaskets are so i'm toying with the idea of replacing if i'm going to go to the effort of replacing studs.. Qwk do you know if there is enough movement to do it without removing the turbo, if not I suppose I will do the turbo studs and gaskets as well. cheers for ya advice.

Sorry to bring up old post but planning to check and possibly replace exhaust manifold studs. You reckon this method would work. http://www.ehow.com/how_5529323_remove-manifold-stud-toyota-truck.html General jist wined on two nuts one on in reverse and turn inside nut. Would be interested to get anybodies two cents on the method.

Yeah I'm not in too much of a hurry, still got to free up some coin with the wife so im happy to sit tight a bit before contacting and organsing the board with Mat. I like the idea of a preloaded tune, def worth looking into, my mods are pretty standard 3" system, FMIC, boost control. Ideally I will hear something back from the 2 workshops I emailed up here, so I know how much i need to outlay for the board and tune. The 2 places I emailed about Nistune and cost for tune are http://www.svscairns.com.au/ and http://www.claservices.com.au . If I don't hear anything I will give them a buzz when im ready to go.

Ahh damn =(

I know I might be pushing my luck but is anybody aware of any Nistune tuners in Cairns. I've checked Nistune site and googled around and nothing. In the last few days I've shot a few emails to workshops with 4wd dynos but I'm still waiting on replies.

Let me know how you go.... I'm still mucking around with the impact of removing the top line from the boost solenoid. I definitely found the boost is building up quicker and the car is quicker in the lower rev range. Previously it was like the car had long legs and started to boggie later in the rev range. Let me know how u go.

:D It's a new car!!!!!!!! being my first turbo car I didn't know what to expect.. I just thought it took ages to build boost but it looks like I just had a massive boost leak cos that solenoid was still connected on the top hose... Looks like SA user I bought the car from just hooked up the boost controller wrong, man i reckon if he knew he would spew.. With this hose plugged it builds boost in a instant and man it is way more responsive!!!! Look like this could be the reason I couldn't run above 7.5psi I will do some more tests over the weekend... All I have to say is F$u)K yeah, you all rule and thanks for your responses and help... Tom cheers again u rule.....

Sweet ill give it a go today and let you know.

So I'm willing to be labeled a slow learner to get this right I didn't install my boost controller and I want to ensure it was done right.. So... Below are 2 pics. One shows the Boost Solenoid and you see the top line is still connected and is plumbed in just above the pod intake. (Is this right??? Reading this re r33 install it doesn't seem right.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/In...st-t183405.html The other photo shows where the boost controller is plumbed in x mark the spot where the line starts then it goes the T piece (its hard to get a photo due to lines running everywhere) and that runs to the wastegate actuator - Im sure thats right. So should I disconnect and block that hose to the top of the solenoid? Would this be conflicting with the after market boost control? Cheers again.. Been a nice crash course in bits and pieces re turobs

Ahh cheers Aaron im slowly piecing this together.

Ahh cheers Duncan didn't know the solenoid was removed from the circuit when a boost control was installed (to point out the obvious ' its my first turbo car' =) As far as description it's like 2 v.quick subtle loses of power between 4500 and 6500 seems to power through after the power loss... Boost gauge seem to flutter around 7 to 8 pound mark. So far my testing has been limited to 30 mins of driving, tying to up the boost one click at a time until the above described prob happens. I think ill seal my coil packs on the weekend(as i think this could also be an issue). If it still happens ill try below, who knows just mite help. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/By...mp;hl=boost+mod

From what I'm reading in various SAU threads the boost solenoid on a RS4S bleeds of boost that is higher the ~7.5psi, and this is controlled by the ECU. My understanding is you can A) Get ECU management and tune it out b) Install some type of boost control c) Earth the solenoid out but run the risk of infinite boost, (but u can remove the risk by installing boost control?) I have a TurboSmart duel stage boost control, and when I try to adjust the high boost with 1 or 2 clicks up from 7-8psi, I get a hesitation and it doesn't boost past 7psi (which I now think is a boost bleed off, not coils) As I have duel stage boost control is it safe for me to earth out the solenoid?? I really would like to run 10psi maybe even 11psi.. I would really appreciate if Rs4s owners could let me know if you experienced this problem with boost past 7psi and how you manage it. Or even if your RS4S had this issue Thanks heaps and for all those that have helped out with my recent posts... You rule =) Mods FMIC, 3 inch from manifold, duel stage turbo timer.

Sound like a plan, I'll do these coils then worry about getting to 10+psi.. I forgot to mention in mods I do have 3"inch system from the manifold (*blames forgetting to mention earlier on new born baby distractions =) I've been searching the forums and it seems like something is fishy with Rs4 s and getting the boost above 7 psi due to sensitive ecu and boost limiter solenoid so thats a likely cause of my new higher boost problem. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Bo...43#entry4940243 think i mite have to get a nisstune if i want to get to 10psi. or do that plug the tube to solenoid mod but im not so sure how safe that is ? thanks again, for ya help ppl

Cheers chukie, I will give that urethane seal a go for sure. I did forget to mention I do have a After market boost gauge. So Lachlan are you saying you can't boost reliably above 8psi on your s2 rs four s? I went for a drive today, at 8psi nothing was failing for a good 30 mins so I thought bonus I will up the boost. I upped it 2 clicks so I guess that would be around 9psi and it consistentl hesitate in 2 spots around 5500 and 6500, it was nothing like the original prob I had, is this the r&r? or the thing u refer to in post 11 at http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Dy...ry-t320073.html

Cheers guys you were all on the money, nothing to do with a wastegate etc.. So tonight I threw in some copper NGk's gapped at .8mm. Visual inspection of the coils looked pretty good. Could see 1 coil had some feint white lines from what looked to be a tinny gap in a seem. It's the wifes car so i needed to have it on the road tomorrow so I just wrapped that coil with electrical tape. I then set off for a 10 minute test run, boosted through 4k to 6k rpm no probs at 8psi. After about 6 mins of boosting around, it did start hesitating slight, but nothing like and it still boosted and powered through the hesitations. So conclusions it's got to be one or more coil packs braking down. Looks like I will be breaking the sealeys 401 silicon on the weekend, then failing that forking out for yellowjakets. Will keep you posted

I think that's the only direction I can go.. I'll do some copper plugs at 0.8 and neoprene up the coil packs and see how i go. I'll let ya know. Went for a few beers last night with me mech mate and he just doesn't reckon its a missfire.. He said he could be wrong because hasn't worked on Skylines but he said it ain't like any hundreds of missfires he has felt and fixed on run of the mill cars e.g Fords, holden and NA engines. Makes it hard cos I have no idea what varying degrees of missfires feel like.. And its realy hard to describe a problem to diagnose over the internet. So I went looking on the net and found this video on youtube, and as far as video goes (to varying degrees) the popping / stuttering is exactly whats happening to me. http://www.youtube.com/user/syncore34#p/u/9/EOWmMYv86_w wish I could find this Syncore34 guy see if he fixed it.

Cheers heaps Josh thats helped me think about the prob a bit differently. If I had to chose between 'violent stutter, a complete engine cut, or just like the power has flattened out a bit' I'm leaning towards power flattened out a bit, and sometimes mild, stutter when it powers back. Because it only happens under full load if the power flattened out and it kicks in then the whole things would seem a little harsh. As for the blocking of the BOV vacuum from what your saying if it was underboosting then it wouldn't be putting load on the ignition and as such no missfire. Which leaves me thing coils and plugs (which seems so common) Thanks heaps again.

Cheers for ya thoughts, the 4pound low boost is a bit of a guess. Its tricky as the stock boost gauge in the middle of the dash isn't working and the aftermarket boost pressure gauge seems to be around 4 when accelerating (its the wifes car so i use the low boost setting =).

Hey Guys, seeking some wisdom / advice. A bit about the car. The car is a 99 Stage RS4-S factory manual has turbosmart duel stage boost and FMIC, boost running at 4pound and 9 pound, other then that its stock. The problem i'm having is under load around 4000 and 6000 rpm i get a stuter / surge. It doesn't happen all the time but I would say 40% of the time sometimes it's v.minor and other times it is more pronounced. Not being a mechanic and reading skylines Australia I thought must be coil packs. I took the car to a mechanic mate of mine today to see what he thought and to pull the coil packs (standard) and plugs (iridium) for a check. He took it for a drive and was 100% sure it wasn't a missfire and though it felt like a limiter feel. He then checked the ECU using a diagnostics computer and found 55 No fault found which indicates not a missfire problem. He then asked the apprentice cos he had some experience with skylines, the apprentice reckons its a wastegate problem and to test it remove the vacuum hose of the standard blow off valve and plug the hose with a bolt, take it for a drive and see if it happens (the vacuum hose pic is below). So I did that and although it had less power it didn't have that stutter problem. (What does this test prove, does it prove it is a shagged wastegate? Im no mech so I got no idea) Any thoughts as to what it could be? Wastegate, acutuator, something else? Cheers, Brad from Cairns

Dave you are a champ!!!! So glad to hear you got it sorted and you have single handed given me hope that I might one day fix this clicking relay!! Thanks again for all your effort you deserve a quite relay forever. =)

Thats awesome, can't wait to find out how you go!!! Right on ya research I reckon sounds spot on to me..

Ahh sweet, Nice work guys!

If you can get that sorted, u deserve champ status.