JezR31

R31 ECU is fine. Just change the balancer for the R31 accessories. Done

The above ^^ is only relevant to twin cam rb30 builds. Yes, the VL rb30 will work in an R31. You will have to change the harmonic balancer depending on if you want to run R31 or VL accessories. Easier to use your crank angle sensor and distributor your ECU was already using, you cannot interchange CASs (vl - hitachi, r31 - mitsubishi) only the distributor as a whole. Use the same alternator.

The more years I've gained on my licence I've learnt, Pay extra attention on roads that have telegraph poles along them, if someone messes up and you're doing even the speed limit at 60km/h the end result is going to be very nasty. I'd never do silly things on a road like this, traffic or no traffic the risk is too great. If you have a car with 4 or 5 people in it, chances are 1 or more will die. Been in this situation many times when I was on my P's in my mate's cars thinking, ''Yep, I'm gonna die" Also, people can't judge your speed properly if you're speeding and will pull in front of you, really it's not their fault as you should be doing the speed limit. I never carry a lot of speed through roundabouts now ever. Usually you have 1-1.5 secs to respond and pull the car up if someone miss judges your speed. The only times I'd ever speed is if I've traveled the road many times, you pretty much know every crack and off cambers the road has, it was quiet and no traffic. Bendy roads I know people are going to be at a dead stop around the next blind corner. Highway on ramps or overtaking on the highway are probably the only times I'd have my foot to the floor. So I guess I'll say yes it may be safe at times, but it's a very small window. Most of the time I'm scanning for peoples mistakes and just following the speed of the traffic, not getting into peoples blind spots for too long etc

Hey guys, Selling these extra parts I don't need as I have an ECU with map sensor and I'm going to go with an E85 walbro suitable pump. - The 040 has never been used as you can see from the strainer. I bought it from JustJap about a year ago for $210 if I recall. It's currently wired into my HR31 cradle but has never been in the tank as my car isn't finished yet and I want more power than this will flow. Would make a great upgrade for a mildly modded skyline. $150 - Z32 AFM + Plug - I bought this off of a forum member, I was going to go with Nistune or PowerFC but I have bought an Adaptronic unit through Stao. So I no longer need this. Would suit someone with a Nistune/PowerFC. Rear mesh has slightly detached itself but can be removed, doesn't effect the function of it at all. $150 I'm located in Western Syd. Happy to post to other states.

No not as of yet, car has been at my mechanics for many months so I haven't had a chance to get started on it. I will be doing a Nismo R34 led layout on an early tail light (afterburner) HR31 Skyline.

Access to the JZ series is much easier in his area than RBs. R32 chassis will be a rocket with a 2JZ

Anyone have any experience with the F30 328i or F30 335i? or same engines in the 4 series (coupe)? Any E90, E92, E93 people thinking of upgrading to the F30?

Stock GTR cooler, it will do 300kw+ easy and they're cheap. Going to have to change your piping around though.

Just get a used system, cat backs can be found as cheap as $350. Dump pipes are very cheap used as well. Performs exactly the same as brand new.

Go to an exhaust shop and say you want a cannon muffler put on. They put those on civics and hyundais everyday of the week. If you want something worthwhile, get a 3" catback

If you wanted the deep bassy V8 note, you need v8 displacement lol. Quieter exhausts (3" big mufflers) make an RB26 more mechanical sounding kinda like an e46 M3 or old datsun L series with triple webbers.. well maybe that's a little exaggerated lol. I think its the individual throttle bodies that make them sound different to RB20s and RB25s. Titanium seems to make the higher end frequences stand out more as well. From what I've heard the bigger straight through 3.5"+ diameters with single muffler and resonator give that awesome big boomy RB26 idle lope if you have cams. Loud as hell though, your neighbors will hate you if you drive it late at night. End of the day, it's worth whatever someone is willing to pay for it I guess. It does look nice, has some good modifications as well as a tidy interior. I think if you drive a stock GTR and a lightly modified one, you'd be blown away at the difference a tune makes. You'll quickly get over the stock one quickly, even someone that wasn't really into performance cars. To get a stock one with an unknown engine modded to where that black one is would probably cost you 5-6k in parts alone? Not including labour. It already has a powerFC, injectors, N1 block and pump. Intake and exhaust taken care of, all you'd have to do is highflow/upgrade the turbos in that case you wanted more power. A lot of people are attracted to the cheap purchase price of a stock car, coming from experience, I was one of them lol. You get over the stock power so fast, especially on a warm day with aircon on. The power delivery is just terrible. I suggest buying an already lightly modified one, possibly one that still has the stock twins or N1s. Going from completely stock to 300kw, having to do all the supporting fuel, intake, exhaust, ecu mods, suspension and brakes can be an absolute nightmare. You will go through thousands in just labour. Then you see something on carsales with 260-300kw, same mods you want for half the cost. Building something vs purchasing at same specs is going to be night and day difference on your wallet. When you mod you car you get this crazy attention to detail and all the small things end up collectively to big $. Doesn't have to be 300kw, I'm just picking a number to give an example Personally I think it's worth buying modded over stock. Someone has already gone through the headaches and $$$$ labour costs for you. All you have to do is enjoy it and add little things to personalise it to your own tastes. Definitely have a drive of a 250kw one, muuuuch nicer than stock and not too crazy. Economy should be the same at that power level.

I'm not a spray painter, but some things I've noticed about the black one you may have missed. Typically photos make something rough look a little better, so what this thing looks like in real life is anyone's guess. I've drawn circles on parts you should look at. Red circle - You can see the roofline of the warehouse is wavey, even in oxidised paint, a line wont waver, so it looks to me as if it's been resprayed there. Yellow line - the top of the garage door dips down midway. Taking into account the GTR rear guard curves, that looks like a low point in the panel. Blue circles - You can see a clearcoat difference between the door and rear guard, the door is shiny and the guard is flat. So, shit job on blending. Same as the Roof to pillar, the original paint is oxidised on the roof and bonnet and you can see a difference in paint on the pillar. Again the finish is flat like it needs a buff. I would want a picture of inside the guard and wheel well on the drivers side. Also a look at and control arm bolt holes for any bending/shearing from a possible side impact or gutter hit. In comparison to the passenger side, to me both guards look different. You can see the reflection in the passenger side follow the correct lines. Anyway, those a a couple of little tips you can apply to other cars you're looking at. Good luck in your search.

Has anyone used Red LEDs instead of the clear ones in their tail lights? The current prices at Jaycar are - White waterclear LEDs 4000mcd = $1.90/25+ LEDs, x100 the total is $190 Red waterclear LEDs 4000mcd = $0.99/25+ LEDs, x100 the total is $99 (correct me if I'm wrong) My understanding is that only the red light produced from a white LED is going to pass through the stock red tail light lense. Where a higher percentage of light from a red LED will will pass through the red lense. So in saying that, would a red LED should be perfectly fine behind a red lense?

Compression ratio should be fine. Plenty of motors now with 10:1 - 10.5:1, you wont be able to run as much boost, though as you say you only want a little more power. It will still make an easy and safe 200rwkw anyway. You will need - R33 gtst brakes calipers + rotors - Clutch? possibly - LSD if yours doesn't have one. - DET injectors - DET ecu - DET AFM - Stock turbo to start with - water and oil feed lines - Dump pipe and exhaust - FMIC - Fuel pump Much much much much easier just to sell and buy a GTS-t, stock r33s are worth not much at all these days. You can even find ones with 250rwkw for much cheaper than it would cost to mod yourself. I have to say this even though you don't want to hear it (I understand you love your car) because it is common sense, and I have no emotional attachment to your car or $1000 service/maintenance cost you just paid. So we can give unbiased advice. A turbo the size you posted needs a lot of supporting mods. Anyway, good luck and stay the hell away from that ebay turbo.

SOLD