JezR31

Compliance plate is when it was imported into Aus. The build plate is from Nissan with VIN number etc. I don't know how it was complianced in Australia before it was even built? Is the front end Series 2? The seats are different fabric?

Why does the human brain have to overcomplicate even the most simplest of processes. Right foot does both, unless you do a skid or need to stall up a few hundred rpm for a heavy tow.

Hey mate, what rb25 is the nistune suited for? R33 with vct? is it the Z32 board?

Both are nice cars, one may be faster than the other but they're still slow in the real world. I wouldn't worry about power on these two models, perhaps fit some coil overs and sticky tyres and enjoy the good handling they have. I don't know if you are able to afford one, but the Toyota 86's are nice to drive, handle very well when you get rid of the shitty tyres they have. Not straight line fast but they're great non the less.

Common sense would say - Whatever you're driving now, keep it for 11 months. Save more money, buy an R33 with 250-300rwkw that's completely finished, they come on the market very often and usually for very reasonable prices. Or a nice stock R34 (exhaust and filter, fmic etc). In all seriousness, you'll be bored with the standard turbo power pretty quick and want to mod it. 150rwkw is slow as hell. You'll get to 200kw, get bored. Have to replace turbo, fuel system, ecu, clutch etc which will easily double or triple what you spent to get to 200kw. But you're probably young and need (want) to have it now lol. If I didn't have the patience to wait, I would buy an N/A r33 and sell it when the time comes, then get a build R33, waaaaaay less mucking around. RB25de long motors are about $600, just get the compression checked. $3000 is wow, almost robbery. That's $500-$1000 more than an rb26. This is advice from someone building a car from stock to 300kw.

Hey mate how much power was your gtr making whilst this clutch was fitted?

Hey mate, How old are the cams? Also, are they for S1 or S2 crank angle sensor?

Wastegate still for sale?

I was going to suggest a lokka but if you daily it, probably better off with a KAAZ.

I have a mate that just recently had his GT2876 rebuilt with a GTX wheel through precision. He's happy with the work. Makes 240rwkw on a CA18.

What looks best is really personal taste. What model emotion, there's 6 models I think? CR KAIs, XD9s, XT7s? I think 18's look great on R34s personally, and Work emotion sets look better in larger diameters.

Price on: 2 x 235/45R17 2 x 255/40R17 Posted to 2750 NSW Thanks

What kind of driving do you do with your ute?

Looking for something that suits an RB25, but makes more power than your SLSS2. Was just curious if you had any dyno runs with the SLSS3

Have you had any dyno runs with the SLSS3 yet Stao?

The above is true. Ive seen the BW78 in Datsuns behind FJs and SRs, All Rbs in r31s. The diff gets loud, sounds like a UFO is flying behind you. Goes bang between changes, stupid backlash. LSD is hopeless even after a rebuild, they last a couple months and single spin again. But Ive never seen one break If you go down this route, mini spool it or get a KAAZ center. Perhaps look at Hilux diffs I think theyre 31 spline, thicker axles than a 9", 4 pinion lsd

R31 BW's are popular in LX and LH toranas aren't they? I don't even think they have to be shortened at all, they're almost the perfect width. VL commodore has 25 spline (pintara) but 5 stud axles. Turbos were 28 spline like all rb30 R31s. VN to VS, EB Falcon to EL and R31 all used the same borg warner. Just had different ratios. I think they came in some chevs and fords in the US. So they can handle a decent amount of power. 308 and 5L don't make much power so I wouldn't worry about breaking one.

All PM's replied to.

If you're buying N/A, you want displacement and twincam, or a head that breathes a good amount of air. Look into N/A Supras or Zeds, you get 3L so you'll have a decent amount of torque. They actually go quite well. With a manual box they'll keep up with stockish GTST's. N/A rb20's and rb25's are just a disappointment really, even rb25det's are nothing special by today's standards. On paper they seem alright, but you'll struggle to keep up with a new 4cyl that can rev. After driving many R33's, turbo and N/A. I would say definitely look at a supra before you make up your mind. Much better car IMO.

Penrith, Western Sydney.

Ohh sorry I didn't put a price up. $700 posted.

Hey guys, I have a Kando Ext Wastegate TD06SL2-20G 8cm turbo for sale. I bought this for my RB25 because the previous owner said it had a 25G turbine and 10cm rear meaning it was a T67. Unfortunately he didn't know exactly what he was selling. So this is up for sale as I will be going with a HyperGear T67. Would be a great turbo for an SR20 or RB20 Cheers, Jeremy

Checked mine and it doesn't have any numbers unfortunately. I'll take a pic with ruler measurement and see if anyone can tell what it is.

I did many searches, also on google. The Kandos don't have the stamp that the trust housings have.

Does anyone know how to tell a 8cm and 10cm turbine housing apart?