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Cowboy1600

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Everything posted by Cowboy1600

  1. Bought this in '12 to replace my '01 R1 which was stolen: It was in sterling condition which was a shame because my bikes tend to cop a pretty tough life so I replaced the schmick stock fairings with some ebay second hand ching chong stuff and stashed the stock stuff. The ebay stuff is Hanspree race colours but it now looks like this: Thanks to $70 worth of plasti-dip. Also picked myself up a new daily as I recently changed roles and am out and about each day in a suit. The Stag doesn't like daily duties so behold, it's daily replacement! A cracking little car. I love driving it. It's a SSS with the CVT (stuff driving a manual in peak hour every day). In manual form it would be an absolute riot. It's still pretty bloody good in CVT form.
  2. Have replaced the bulbs. The bulbs which came out are not damaged. Still no go. And no, I haven't checked every fuse. I've checked the ones which relate to the rear lights and the middle high brake light still works which I'm going to assume is on the same circuit.
  3. The centre high brake light is still working and I've checked the fuses which could be related.
  4. S2 c34 Fuse fine globes fine They both stopped working at the same time. The centre high brake light is still working. I don't have a multi meter handy. Anyone got any ideas? I'm on my way to work and really hate not having brake lights
  5. Oh, and there's this of course...
  6. I'm yet to see a 35 which punches as hard in the visual department as a nicely done 34. That thing looks like it's basically sitting there waiting for you to get closer. As soon as your in range, it'll pounce, beat the living shit out of you, chew you up, spit to out then f**k off in a 4 wheel induced cloud of tyre smoke leaving all kinds of impossible lines behind it.
  7. The HKS clutch, push or pull and does it include flywheel?
  8. Keep the cruiser till you can drive a turbo car. Don't waste your time and money on an RX8 or 34GT.
  9. Having driven neither cars, my opinion is clearly that of a seasoned expert. If it's a weekend car, I would take the 34. For me a well done 34 will turn my head faster than a 35. Speed wise, meh they both either have or have the potential to match million dollar supercars. The idea of a blue VSII with a 3L bottom end running a responsive 400+awkw is the stuff wet dreams are made of. As far as road presence goes, this is hard to beat: Dare I say a 34 will also hold it's value better? I think you'd be less concerned about tuning a 34 too as it's much easier and much more tried and tested than a 35, not to mention cheaper (but you're starting from a higher level of tune with the 35 so that's understandable). If it was a daily then it'd be a 35, hands down. But it's not, so go the 34
  10. That's a very small rear wheel for a 3l! A .63 might be suitable if that's the case.
  11. If I get home before dark tomorrow, I'll climb under mine and find out. Unless you're hunting that extra 0.003 second off your laptime around PI, out of the box will be fine.
  12. OMFG, how good would they look on an R34 GTR?! (well, anything actually, but especially and R34) Awesome wheels. Whoever bought them, please post a pic of your car wearing them!
  13. Also, if you're able to find links to the clutches you have, that'd be super awesome.
  14. Whoops, you're right. I meant to type pull type.
  15. So, I've searched quite a bit. There's lots of scattered info on C34 clutches, but it's very hard to get a sense of who's done what etc so I thought I'd kick off an aggregation thread for all things C34 clutch related. There is, of course, a selfish motivation for this. I need a new clutch but can't decide what to do. Jim Berry? Exedy? NPC? Xtreme? Nismo? Giken? On top of the info being scattered into the wind, much of it is very old so hopefully this thread will provide a simple way to find up to date info on clutches for Stags. So to kick things off I'm in need of a new clutch for my S2 RS4S. It's a non-daily so it can be a little less traffic friendly, but I don't want an absolute pig of a clutch (it does get pedaled around for work occasionally). Currently car runs somewhere in the region on 200-220awkw with plans, one day, to aim for 300awkw. My budget for just clutch (no flywheel or labour) is $700-800. I am aware that I need a push type clutch. Will any GTR (non-early R32) fit? What are others using and what do people recommend/suggest? Is there anything specific to Stag clutches I should know?
  16. Save yourself a wad of cash, and possibly get better results and go the Hypergear. Stao has invested huge amounts of time and money building turbos suited to RBs. Couple that with an unending desire to improve his product and aftersales support which is second to none, and you'd be making a mistake to go a Garrett over a HG IMO. Spend a couple hours here - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/
  17. A hypergear ticks all the boxes, mate. A dirty 30 will put out a lot of gas, especially under high load. I reckon the .82 rear is the one you're after. IMO a .63 will choke a 3l.
  18. It would be silly responsive on a 3l. You'll probably want the .82 rear on it. I reckon a .63 will struggle at 7k on a 3l.
  19. The answer you seek is here:http://www.hypergearturbos.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=81
  20. Actually, I just re-read and caught the specs. Wolv was in fact correct. My mistake. The OP has a 25de head on his 30.
  21. There isn't an RB30 dyno thread. There's a 25/26-30 thread, but results there are going to be quite different to a bog stock single cam 30DET head. Sure, he can get some ideas, but it's still a fair question. To be honest a better response would have been to point him to a VL forum. They have way more experience with RB30s than the folks here.
  22. If C34 S2 Stagea (manual) shocks fit, I've got a full set of stockies you can borrow. I'll let you research whether or not they are any good. I CBFed
  23. Walk, nay run, away. For $15-18k you should be looking at immaculate 34 GTTs. There should be no rust, no missing stuff, no veering, no funny business. If you have patience, get in touch with one of the well regarded importers on this forum (ie. Import Monster) and import your own. Otherwise put up some info regarding where you are looking at cars and some of the more experienced guys may be able to inspect them with you.
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