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Cowboy1600

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Everything posted by Cowboy1600

  1. Good to hear. I never saw much of their completed work but saw that they were trusted with some pretty special cars from time to time which says something. They wouldn't attract that kinda work if they were shit.
  2. Have you owned a Datsun?
  3. Very, very nice. I reckon Volvo are kicking goals right across their range at the moment. What car did this replace?
  4. Is the one actually available yet?
  5. This better carry a Datsun badge: http://www.carsguide.com.au/car-news/nissan-idx-is-return-of-the-datsun-1600-video-23131#.U5hGE_mSx8E I literally buy one tomorrow if I could. Instead I will likely be purchasing a new SSS Pulsar sometime in the next fortnight...
  6. He shit canned them for their pre-test development and sending ring in's to a group test. Apparently they always send two cars to a group test, with explicit instructions to use one for straight line and one for track testing. And they send a teat of engineers along too. The other companies just hand over a car and politely ask for it not to be crashed. Good on him for calling their bullshit and well done Ferrari for screwing your actual customers (who don't get the cars the tests lead them to believe they are purchasing) and doing what you can to damage your brand.
  7. The LaFerrari sounds incredible. Chris Harris is the only person worth watching, however. How those other f**king boring numpties got that gig is beyond me. What a pack of staid, boring dream boats.
  8. Wow. If this happens I will likely ditch my PFC and Nistune my S2. I want Flex Fuel.
  9. I'm into ovlovs at the moment. You can get a 2008ish v8 xc90 with 50000ks-ish for under $40k. That's a lot of car for the money.
  10. Holy shit, that looks amazing. When I read the topic I thought you were mad, but that chops looks brilliant.
  11. Each lender has their own policy on age of car, and seven years is pretty common for max age. A Consumer full doc motor vehicle loan of $115,000 over five years on a five year old car you should be able to get low 7 percent.
  12. That thing is FVCKED! Major rear endage I reckon the owner took one look at it and thought "gosh darn it" and just left it there.
  13. 2-3%, not a chance. Even if you found that as a headline rate comp rate would end up much higher. Assuming its only a couple years old, I could get you around the 7% mark which is as good as you'll get anywhere.
  14. My photos further up show it all. A couple of holes drilled and a small square cut out of the rear bar. There's really not much to it.
  15. Sounds like your ECU is borked. Reset it again and see it what happens. EDIT: Wait, Just read the second part Sounds to me like it was your ECU struggling to cope with a blocked exhaust.
  16. Try an ecu reset. Disconnect the battery, hold your foot on the brake for 30 seconds, reconnect battery. If it's getting stuck on the cold map this should probably fix it. If not then hunt elsewhere.
  17. I feel that you simply handled this very poorly. If you have insurance, you should have just got them onto it. If not, I would have taken photos of it, got them to sign a bit of paper stating they were responsible for the damage, then taken it to a panel beater of your choice, got a quote and handed it to Pedders to resolve. There's no way you should have let them take care of it. But you live and you learn. Actually, I imagine by now you have some form of paper work where they have basically admitted liability due to the fact they have at least attempted to fix it. I'd go back to them, tell them the job they did was rubbish and you will be going to your panel beater and getting a quote to fix it properly. They will then be presented with the quote and expected to pay it, lest they end up in court.
  18. I reckon a rebuild of your current donk is likely the easiest solution. Not a full on ZOMGFORGED type build, but depending on how "blown" the current set up is, a set of slugs, maybe rods (although I'd be surprised if they were required) and a good going over to check the crank and block.
  19. Sounds like way too much effort for an average result. Sell the 25 and put the kesh towards rebuilding your 25 or going a 30 with your existing gear.
  20. Pics! Very keen on the quality. I missed this GB but will be in on another if it happens.
  21. Honda CRV. No diesel option, but diesels sucks, so that's a good thing You'll get a ripper in your price range and it'll be AWD and go forever.
  22. The difference between 91 and 98 is usually about 15 cents. That's $9 a tank. From my experience I get almost 10% better fuel economy out of 98 as I do 91, so lets say 40ks more per tank. That's about 7L of fuel, which is $10.50 worth at $1.50/L. Let's be conservative and say you get 5% better fuel economy, that's 3.5L (over around 400-450ks [ie. roughly a tank]) which is $5.25. So the difference between 91 and 98 is around $4 per tank. If $4 per tank is meaningful, then you're driving the wrong car. I would NEVER run 95 in any vehicle I own. The reason for this is no one uses it so it's usually been sitting in the tanks at the servo for a long time. For proof, have a look at the lifetime delivery amount on the bowser next time you go. It'll be something like this: 91 - 1,500,000 95 - 125,000 98 - 750,000 United100 is good stuff. That's what I run. My car loves it and is a little more efficient on it than 98. TBH if you are at all concerned about fuel usage you are driving the wrong car. A Stag is 1650+kgs with a turbo 6 and in most cases an auto. It's a recipe for big fuel bills. If running cost is an issue, but your losses and sell the thing cause it's never going to be considerably better.
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