Cowboy1600

Awww crap, he's got me I don't own a Skyline

Hang on, lets attempt to rescue this thread (although to be honest the car looks like it belongs on calaisturbo). So what's the go. Why was the turbo removed by the previous owner and why did you buy it that way? Are you on your Ps? If so, even with the turbo removed it's illegal so you may have well purchased a turbo car. And looking at the bitsa engine bay there could be 1000 reasons why it's running like shit. $100 for a de computer is on the pricey side and it's not likely to make your car run much better. The only way you are going to get it running semi-decently is with a full aftermarket ECU. You're looking at say $1,000 to $2,000 for one inc fitting and tuning depending on which way you went. I'm going to take a stab and say that's more than you spent on the actual car itself. the beauty of an aftermarket ECu is you can unplug it and carry it over to your next car, should that ever happen. Also, do you drive that car on the road or around a paddock?

Couldn't pull a Boy Scout off your Grand Mother.

Ok, we need some clarification. The turbo was taken off....and a new one put on in it's place. Right? If not, there is no freakin' way in hell it's EVER going to "light up both back wheels". An RB20de-t wouldn't have the nuts to pull the skin off a custard. Perhaps your clutch is rooted? If it does not have a turbo, then there's your problem. Why don't you put the turbo back on? Otherwise short of an aftermarket ECU and a dyno tune, it's never going to run well.

There's not enough facepalm pics on the interwebz to suffice,is there?

Interested in swaps? My Stagea RS4S and say $5k your way? GL with the sale. That's one hell of a car.

Fair assumption I reckon. And S15 Autech NAs still won't pull a 14 stock. They might break into the 15s.

Good luck. I hope you are able to get some form of compensation.

Is there any advantage in wasted spark ion an RB? I know some engines like it more than others.

You've proven my point. Hence the "15". If it was a 15.9 then it's a very long way from a 14. As it is a 15.6/7 is still a very long way from a 14. With an exhaust and highflow filter a 15.6 is about right. It might even go a bit faster as N/A SRs respond very well to opening up the lungs. That makes a stocko a flat 16 second car (maybe a 15.9/8 if it's an extra healthy one).

You know nothing. You said they run 14s. There's a massive difference between a "15" second car and a 14 second car. And if it was a 15.9 then you didn't know it. No mention of what, if any mods were done to the "15" second car. You claimed stockos do 14s. They do not. Flat 16s, maybe a high 15 is what they will do stock. Do the usual mods, exhaust and CAI and you might see a mid to low 15, maybe.

You've got little chance of compensation. Pot holes are considered a road hazard that you as a driver are compelled to avoid. Whilst it's the council, state or federal governments responsibility to maintain the roads, in reality ensuring no pot hole ever forms or no other hazard ever arises is impossible, therefore unless you can demonstrate some form of negligence on behalf of the responsible party, for example if a fairly significant hazard had been reported and it was not rectified within what ever time frame they are compelled to abide by, you have little chance of compensation. I'm not saying this to be negative, I'm saying this because I spent a few years working for councils so understand where their responsibility begins and ends. It's a real bugger what happened to your car, I feel for you. Can you put up pics of the pot hole?

I think you'll find it's a colloquial term for an engine which has been rebuilt with forged internals (or at least pistons). It's a bit easier than having to type "building an engine with forged pistons and possibly conrods" every time you want to refer to a "forged motor". I tend to agree with some of what's been said by others. Unless you are aiming for significantly more power, why bother doing a "budget" rebuild? Keep what you've got and either rebuild it once it's cactus or just get another second hand long motor and switch it.

Does that include the clutch or is that just fitting?

Whilst "the world" might be a tiiiiny exaggeration I agree that SSS pulsars are the ducks nuts.

When basic physics, not to mention practice, suggests someone is wrong, why shouldn't I say anything especially when they were wrong in response to something I said? Going back to my original point, an N/A s15 will not walk a v6 Commodore or N/A r34. I apologise if I don't accept a fantasy story about a mate's miracle car as some form of evidence that I'm wrong.

Yeah, it proves my point. ~160kw in 1450kg car might do a high 14 especially if its a big motor or turboed. The Autech is neither big motored nor turboed.

Bog stock running 15s? Low 15s? Show me all these examples. The only way you'd get a 0.7 difference at those times is if you majority messed up a gear change or something like that. Peel off 5 clean runs in a row and there shouldn't be more than perhaps .3 seconds between the best and worst.

Stock, no, no they cannot. Looks, here's a non stock one running a flat 16. That's exactly what I would expect out out 160hp and 1200kgs. Don't give me some crap about the launch or anything. In a POS 16 second car there's not much you can do to screw up a 1/4 mile run. There's no where in that run that guy could make up anything other than milliseconds.

Time slip or I call "heavily modified" or "bullshit". There is no way 160hp will get 1200kgs down the quarter in under 16 seconds.

S15 Autech - 121kw 1200kg R34 GT-V - 140kw can't find weight, but GTT is 1410kg, so the GT-V should be a solid 50kgs less. VY Commonwhore - 152kw 1520kgs. Me thinks you're dreaming.

Would like to see more pics of htis build. Shut up, dickwad. No one cares.

Fair call, but servicing costs are generally directly correlated with cost of car. I'm not aware of any exceptions to this rule. If an M3 and R35 cost about the same, over the medium to long term you can be fairly confident that servicing costs are going to be the same. Personally, I couldn't care less about servicing costs. If I was in the position to drop $150k on a car I'd expect servicing to cost a relative amount. For me it would be all about how much I want the car. In fact even if servicing costs were inflated when compared with the cost of the car, I doubt I'd be concerned as A) I could no doubt afford it (within reason) and B) I'd have the car I wanted so cost be damned. But your points are valid. Everyone has different requirements.

I overheard a guy complaining about the service cost on his Lamborghini the other day while waiting for my coffee. $16,000. He wondered how Lambo could justify such a price. I figured the same way he could justify spending half a mill on a car; because they can. If your dad is contemplating dropping well in excess of $100,000 on a car and is concerned about possible servicing costs, I'm not sure a $100,000+++ car is for him. It's always fascinated me when people are contemplating spending what is a huge sum of money on a car but is worried about the running costs. It's like Whirlpool. I like trawling the BMW part for gems like "I'm about to drop $180k on an M3 but the fuel consumption concerns me". Whaaa?