Cowboy1600

The L20 could have taken much more boost with a little more work. It was a tired old motor so 8psi was an amount which wouldn't stress it too much. The Z18 had the mixer pre-turbo, the RBs weren't LPG.

I had a Mazda 323 (last of the rear drivers) with a draw through setup running 22 psi with water/meth injection. I could have pushed it harder but it would pick the left hand wheel up off the ground which made me think that perhaps enough was enough. It had over 230hp at the bags out of a 1.4 and revved to 9400rpm. Doesn't sound to shabby to me. And I had a stock L20 (decomp plate) with a draw through T3 in a 1600. It ran a lazy 8psi (no cooling) and put out about 135rwhp. That thing was a torque monster So I've had both, a built draw through and a stocko draw through and both were f**king brilliant and neither suffered through lack of an intercooler. I've also had a Z18et running straight LPG and now two RB25s (R33 and a Neo Stag). I'll be damned if the draw through set ups lacked in any way.

WTF? You're comparing a 1000+hp V8 with an L20? What are you saying draw through are no good for? Getting some really good horsepower out of an old carby motor, such as an L20, or building a dyno queen with 1500hp at the wheels?

Clearly you've never owned a draw through turbo car.

Please take note of my username. I'll give you one guess what the "1600" relates to. Mrs controls the remote control on Thursdays.

I note a distinct lack of pictures.

Pics of your 180 or GTFO.

Sounds very similar to my Stag. Changed the plugs and BAMMO, back to life. That said, I don't think I've solved the underlying issue which caused the plugs to foul so badly, but it's running fine at the moment. Change the plugs. I reckon that'll get you going and you can then concentrate on the cause of the fouling plugs.

ROBBED!

Don't you mean the R32 which "won" the Tooheys 1000 in 1992? Johnson was robbed.

SOLD Many, many months ago.

Build a bridge. He hasn't murdered anyone. I've only been over the pits twice, once on my XR250 which had a blown rear brake light and once in my 1600 which copped a few minor things which I had to fix, but nothing major. They ignored the non-engineered seats, 2L motor where a 1800 should have been and a whole bunch of other things. My current car is dripping with unroadworthy things such as a Power FC, exhaust hanging a touch too low, boost controller but hasn't yet been picked on. It got through a roady no worries as well.

I'd do ECU first. Then get some injectors, a new fuel pump and the turbo (I'm assuming you already have a decent front mount and exhaust). I'd say most people are saying don't bother with the manifold as the stock ones will flow plenty enough for your goals. I'm not sure of exact limit, but I think they are capable of the kinda power you're chasing. Manifolds are a fair way from the top of the list when it comes to mods for a streetable car.

How do you suppose that? Was it the title - "OS Ginken" or the start where it says "OS Ginken"?

This is the second video. I must stuffed the link.

There's plenty of Datsun/Pommy Ford enthusiasts and the internet makes it simple to get in touch with people who will pay those prices. An FIA head was sold via Ozdat a year or so ago for big, BIG bucks. A post went up and there was genuine interest from a number of parties and it sold within a couple of weeks.

If you ever come across a genuine Lotus head at a garage sale, buy it. A Ford Lotus head in decent nick will fetch upwards of $20k. On that note, if you ever spot an LZ head, steal it. You could retire on what those things are worth. Or for that matter a genuine FIA Big Port L series head, bare, will get you nearly $20k. Make sure you hear it at 1 minute in. Pure magic. And if you want to hear what nearly 10,000rpm out of a Datsun motor sounds like:

A bunch of f**king retards trying to arrest someone.

That's great mate, but we're talking suck through. Z24 cranks stroke them out to 2.4L and they go like hell. But it requires a fair bit of work to get a Z crank to fit an L series.

f**k Japanese people can be stupid.

It will, but manifolds are different. They are a crossflow head. Try and get your hands on an A87 head off an L18. They are the high comp, big port heads and get L20s singing up to 1000rpm harder than stock. Failing finding an A87, the W53 is next best option. I had an A87 and a factory EFI head (and complete set up_ in my shed until late last year. In fact I think the guy who bough the EFI stuff off me is selling it again. Check Ozdat

Isn't Stao working on what is going to be essentially the most perfect turbo for an unopened RB25 with ~300kw goal? EDIT: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page__view__findpost__p__5988007

Oh, and your mates car would be an L20B which is a very, very popular engine to do suck through set ups on. They are tough motors. Although for racing applications many people use L18s as they rev harder. You can bore them out to nearly 2L (bore and stroke can go past this but you lose some revs). Again, incredibly tough motors. I've owned 1600s and 180bs with either L18s or L20bs (and one Z18et which is an L18 bottom end with a twin spark head, EFI and turbo) and if you saw the sheer destruction I tried to force upon them you would be horrified. Simply horrified.

Not enough pressure and no source of ignition, ie. spark. Cylinder pressure is up around 150+psi, where as a turbo may be producing 25psi between the turbo and inlet. And fuel doesn't ignite well without a direct source of ignition. Drop a lit cigarette into fuel and it's not likely to ignite.

Turbo sucks air through the carby. Turbos need to be built with different gaskets - ones which won't break down when they get fuel on them. Apart from that it's cake. Strombergs are one of the most popular carbies to use but webers are good too, as the above pic shows.