Cowboy1600

I think you'll find that belongs to the chick who got shot. She drove into him. The Skyline is on the wrong side of the street and the Commonwhore has been pushed backwards into the Corolla.

IT f**kING LIVES!!! God damn, mother f**king spark plugs were ferschnickered. It's running like a good thing. Revs cleanly, although I think it needs a darn good dyno session. God damn, that car is awesome. Not as punchy as the R33, but that's to be expected due to the extra bulk. I'm in love! Many, many, many thanks for everyone's assistance. It's been an interesting exercise and I've learned a shite load about RBs. I'm still going to give it a good going over, as per some of the advice, to ensure everything is tip top.

This car is amazing. Well done to all involved.

All I have to say is it would be an absolute travesty if that car did not see Phillip Island very soon (please let me know when [not if ] it's going to happen). An amazing car and amazing job by all involved. Also, as a bike person I cannot let it slide, in relation to SBK times vs car, you cannot compare. Bikes might have better than 1:1 ptw ratio but it also has all that power going through a contact patch the size of a credit card!

I've checked the controller and it's set to R34 AFM. Being it's a Neo motor, I assumed this to be correct. The AFR has a pink sticker which I was sure is an R34 AFM. Please correct me if I'm wrong. I'll begin going through Daniel's list tonight. I'll begin by putting in new plugs and see if that helps. I'll also check for spark on each one as I go which will rule in or out a spark problem. Then I'll check fuel after the FRP. Is there only one FPR on RBs? There are three canisters which look like FPRs. I'd pretty pretty darn amazed if it was a compression issue. I do know motors and I know what compression problems are like and this sure as shit feels nothing like a compression problems, so I'll leave that till last (I don't have a comp gauge so I'll try easy things before I buy one). To be honest, I haven't checked fuses. Again, there's not much which suggests fuses, but I'll check them all tonight with a light to rule them out anyway. I've also pulled most of the intake off to check for splits but there are one or two I haven't (I have tried to climb under and feel/see any problems but I'll pull em off and have a look). It's got 3/4rs of a tank of juice. I filled up on the way home from picking it up three weeks ago.

I don't think he changed anything. I only dropped in there to ask them if they had any experience with PFCs and he said he didn't but would be interested in taking a squizz. He had the hand controller and was poking about, but I saw sort of looking over his shoulder and I don't think he would have changed anything. I know I can have flow without pressure. As I said, I dunno how strong it should be. It's hard to know. What's the best way to check FPRs? I'm wondering if the timing is so far advanced that it a) won't start and b) pings like a barstardo? To retard ignition you turn the CAS clockwise or anti-clockwise?

Not at all. Solar is worth it but you have to be prepared to spend up on a bigger system. 1.5kw systems are useless. When purchasing solar, go the biggest you can possibly afford, and then beg borrow and steal to go a bit larger again. The average household uses ~20kw/h per day. A 1kw system (in Vic) will generate, on average, 3.5kw/h day. So a ~4kw system will produce around 14kw/h day. That's near enough to 75% of the average daily household, so a 75% cut to CO2 output from home electricity use which is significant. From a financial perspective, it depends on where you live. In Victoria, you get a premium feed in tariff for every kw/h you export back to the grid. So the inverter on the system is wired into the switchboard which means your home will use the power first, then excess will be exported. This has the extra affect of encouraging households to reduce consumption. So not only does it produce CO2 free power (average 75% of a homes usage) it also encourages households to reduce usage. As an example, one system I sold went on the roof of a home of four (2 adults, 2 children) which had an average use of 14kw/h day. Since it went in (just over 12 months ago) it's offset their entire electricity and gas bill AND seen them receive around $2,000 in refunds from what they exported. Their system is 4.08kw and cost ~$13000. So return thus far is around $3500-$4000 for the year. That will slowly fall off, but the system will pay for itself in around 4 years. After that it's ~$3,000pa return. Not bad. And CO2 is reduced significantly. Each state has it's own rebates and tariffs, so this above is for Vic. You're in Shellharbour, is that SA? I believe they have a $0.40 feed in for exported, similar to Vic. NSW had a gross feed in tariff which was just stupid. All generation was paid at 60c for systems up to 10kw. It was unsustainable and did not encourage reduction in usage and resulted in an explosion in installs, many of them dodgy. A 10kw system in the right spot could return you $15,000 pa which was never going to last. My recommendation for anyone installing solar is the bigger, the better and pay more for a reputable company. Also, German and Aussie made does not mean good, it means expensive. Go with Chinese panels. They are as good as any and half the price. As for inverter? That's tough. Aurora, SMA, CMS, Aerosharpe(if on a tight budget), Xantrex and there are probably one or two other decent ones on the market now, but they are the pick. EDIT: I see you're in NSW. The Premium feed in tariff is no longer available, so solar is questionable from a financial perspective. Environmentally, yes, financially you're looking at ~10 year pay back, which still isn't terrible, but it's not great.

That's good to know. I've never used anything Stanley beyond their screwdrivers, so based on this I'll check em out next time I'm looking for tools. And I agree with the Sidchrome direction thing. I've had the same problem in the past and it's fecking annoying.

It started as hesitation under boost and load and was intermittent, as in I couldn't say it would always happen at a certain revs, throttle and boost. It would vary. To me it felt like what I expect R&R to feel like. The PFC showed big knock ie, up to 100 and the engine light would flash, but only occasionally as in I saw that maybe twice. I was at a workshop in Diamond Creek and the car was idling fine. After 2 or 3 minutes I noticed a fair bit of fuel being pumped out the exhaust. I left the workshop and it wouldn't get above about 3,000rpm. It was fine below that, but pretty much as soon as it started boosting it would run like a bag of shit. Worse than the R&R feeling. Went to the shops and more fuel smoke. Got home and the car had used about an eight of a tank of fuel, for about 15ks. I spent a bit of time out the front over the next few days trying things, checking things, nothing worked however I went out the a week or so ago and i couldn't get the thing to start. Now all it will do is cough. It sounds like it wants to go, but nothing. I wonder if this could now be because the plugs are fouled to shit. I reckon it'll start with new plugs but I doubt it'll be fixed. So that's where I'm at.

That's what i did and the spark was big and strong. I'm doubtful that I've snapped a cam.

Back to the drawing board. CAS appears fine. Turns perfect, can hear the injectors clicking away and it has a big fat tasty spark. Fuel pressure is there (dunno how strong it should be). I pulled the fuel line off just before the rail and turn the ignition on and fuel came out a a pretty fearsome rate. I've crimped the return line to try and test FPRs, nothing (as in no change). One thing I did find was the plug on the CAS wasn't on properly which is probably why it was doing nothing. Now it tries to start, but can't quite get there. I'm beginning to move towards tune. The PFC is either malfunctioning (unlikely) or somehow the tune is way out. When it all started going wrong I was at Maverick in Diamond Creek and one of the mechanics there was having a look. i don't think he was changing anything, but I couldn't actually see what he was doing so I'm wondering if he changed something. It was while I was there when it started pumping fuel out the exhaust and started running terribly. I'm going to pick up some fresh plugs tomorrow and see if that gets it going again. I've got some platinums here but they are heat range 5 which I don't think will be ideal. Anyone able to give me an idea if 5s would be ok for a ~200rwkwish RB25? I thought 6s and maybe 7s were the direction to go.

If you are willing to post, I'll take the CAS, if you still have it? Will pay for postage, of course

Got a Cam Angle Sensor by any chance?

Thanks mate. i think the advice has been pretty good thus far. haven't had a chance to pull it out yet. i'll try and get home with a bit of daylight tomorrow and have a go.

I've been trawling the Classifieds here and they tend to go for between $50 and $100. There's one or two dreamers trying for $300-400, but most are below $100.

Spanners and stuff, I agree, but not ratchets. I've bent and broken cheap ratchets. Lashed out on a Supatool set and they have been flawless. Solid feel, positive ratcheting mechanism and thus far have proved tough. The rest of my set is real cheapo stuff. Although I am tempted to shout myself a full set of ratcheting spanners http://www.justtools.com.au/prod233.htm

Now the fun starts. JDMSpares wants a piece of my arse, but has made it abundantly clear they do not wish to use lube. $180+del for a CAS - tell him he's dreaming. Anyone got a Neo CAS they want to sell to me? The going price looks to be more around $60-$90

Repco brand, Kinchrome or Supatool. I assume this is a shed set and not a set you'll be using for hours a day. Forget Snap On and Sidchrome. Far too expensive for tools not being used constantly. Kinchrome are bloody good quality and will last decades. Repco brand tools are also very, very good. Supatool are just rebranded Kinchrome stuff and very good quality. I don't know about the Stanley stuff. I've never used it and don't know anyone who has. It seems a little too cheap to be a contender. The link you put up to the Stanley stuff, it doesn't look great and the price says no IMO. That Sidchrome set looks bloody good. There's a 174 piece Supatool set on special at the moment from Kinchrome for $299 - http://www.kincrome.com.au/web/support/promotions.php Have a look at the cattledog.

If you need any info re: solar panels, let me know. I was in the industry for 3 years and know solar inside out.

I've had a good hunt around for a split in any of the intake. Haven't found anything, but it was probably an 80% look, if that makes sense. It was running at the time, which would no doubt have helped substantially. I will try and get an injector out, double check the spark and if nothing, pull the CAS off tonight. I'm trying to be as thorough as possible so people can refer back to this as it seems to be a common problem caused by a number of things. If I can say "these were the EXACT symptoms, this is what I checked, this is what I found, this is how I fixed it," I'm hoping it will help others.

I picked up another one, which I can't be certain is working, but it made no difference. Aldo, the voltages seesm close (althought I need to confirm the V when cranking - my memory may not be accurate).

Coil spark by sticking a screw driver or something similar into the coil pack and seeing if it'll spark to the block? Or any other way you recommend? Injector pulse by pulling one out? Of is it easier to intercept the injector signal and hit it with a multimeter?

Even with three good coilpacks, the car would probably start. And I've been down fluffing around and I'm pretty confident there's no fuel. I couldn't get to the injectors, but crank it over with plug out and I'm not getting any sign of fuel. Same goes for plug in. Comes out dry. For it to be the coil packs I would have t have had all six fail all within a couple of seconds of each other. Is there any monitor on the Power FC for the CAS?

I can't help but think it's the CAS. Do I just take it off the base plate (ie, undo the couple of small screws) or do I need to take the base plate off as well?

Hrmmm... Plugs were dry. But when it was starting there was lots of fuel. Now it's not starting and the plugs are dry. Upon reflection I didn't get any fuel smell today while I was stuffing around. Right, need to check injectors. So no fuel coming through and no spark is a symptom of CAS? I'll go and hook the induction back up and crank it and see what I get for the AFM values. Also how does one do an ACTUAL spark test? I've always done it the way I did today and it's worked in the past, but then this is only the second car I've ever owned that had a computer managing it.