HYPED6

Box sold. Everything gone except - Ross Balancer $300 Cam/Coil Covers $250

Head, clutch and inlet sold. Gear box, balancer and covers still here.

Gear box, Balancer and covers sold.

Contact 0404812797 or pm

RB26 parts for sale. Rb26 Cylinder head with variable inlet cam timing (vct) stainless exhaust valves, super tech valve springs, after market cams, both over 10mm lift, adjustable exhaust gear and port clean up $3500 Ross balancer $400. Rocker/coil covers. Has -12 fittings $350 Inlet plenum/throttles $350 Exedy push twin plate clutch. rebuilt by npc, done about 5000 km $800 GTR gearbox $500

Kit is still here. Bump

F1 also have to heat the engine up to operating temp before they crank it. Or it will seize

After much reading I think the only way to settle this is a "Rate my fun Car Thread" Show how much fun your having in your skyline and then it gets rated from 1 - 10 by your peers. Maybe we could factor in how many kilometers the car does a year to show the true useableness of said car. I'm pretty sure the 400kw thread can be locked now.

2 things. Actually no 3 things........ Now I have forgotten the third so now its just 2 again. 1. Well done on your achievement, You get a gold star. 2. A GTR is a rubbish drag car. I know I own one. They are heavy and you need 1.3 times the horsepower to get them as fast as a correctly setup rwd car. O now I remember....... the third thing....... MPH is MPH. Regardless of the umpteen million ways to make power on a dyno, there is only 2 ways to run MPH. Power and Weight. I'm not disclaiming that what you have done has not been achieved, nor that the numbers are skewed but I agree 100% then MPH is without a doubt the most reliable way to ensure what power you have. As for Nismoid being god or god like, I have had many a discussion about this and its pretty much 50/50 at this stage, the jury is still out on this one.

It should work, ish Gate pipe positioning is not great, what is the transition like inside the manifold. Imagaine how hard it is for poor old cylinders 1 and 4 trying to muscle through cylinders 2 and 3 to get out the screamer. Can you just run 18 PSI? Or run the engine with no gate. I have seen 10 psi doing this on crappy manifolds.

On E85 or 98?

Can text pics of manifold and turbo

I'm no expert but, 5 in/hg = Go lean until you loose more power than fuel. On a good setup the engine will make the same power at 16:1 and 14:1 0 vacuum= Still stick in the 14's for economy. Even high 14's are fine. With 6 throttles you can get to 0 inHg at 2/3 throttle. Your egt's will be high if sustained for a long time at full throttle...... but its only ever there for a nano second. 2psi = I would still be 14's on your engine. Same deal, not going to maintain this for extended periods at full throttle. 4psi= 13.5AFR 8 psi= 13.0AFr 12psi=11.5AFR 14+ psi = As rich as you can run it without hurting power too much. The richer you run it the safer it will be. That's why nissan do it. Forget about ramping boost unless your going to run anti lag. Component heat is what you want, not lean mixtures.

I did a ca18 once. Had 2 NA exhaust cams. It was rubbish........ Has any one thought about the cam profiling of an exhaust cam. Are the lobes in the correct position on the camshaft to actually work effectively as an intake cam with everything set at 0? PS........ I <3 VCT

Selling my hot side of engine. CRG Merg collector manifold. Steam pipe with EGT Ports T4 foot print Plain bearing T04Z with 0.63 T4 rear housing. 44mm External gate off exhaust housine. 4 Inch dump pipe Oil feed and drain pipe Intake pipe with filter Made 444rwkw on 30psi with E85. Fits with factory AC and ABS. Everything is in great condition. $1800