HYPED6

Even just tested. If they are ok, don't clean them unless you want too. Its much easier doing that than pulling an engine out to replace a ring land.

Yeah they do, Every injector should be tested out of the box. Firstly, most manufactures put shipping wax in them to stop oxidisation. Secondly, if they don't, then oxidising occurs and that needs to be cleaned out. Its the complete failing of injectors after they have been used that is a common problem. Particular injectors that are treated in certain ways cause them to stop working. Also you have to be careful with fuels that absorb moisture out of the air. They can very easily cause congealing in the filters. This is worst case......... If one of your injectors flows 10% less..... Bang goes your engine. If the injector stops completely then there is no fuel to make the bang to case any heat, so no dead engine.

We have had more than 1 set fail.......... On various sizes. There is a fix for it, and its not as easy as flow/ultrasonic.

Poor latency...... They are old and slow. You can mask the crapness by running them rich. But you can never hide the crapness completely.

I hate to brake it to you guys. It is an issue. Mainly with Auto cars. You jump on the brakes, bring it up to stall and let go of the throttle..... and basinga it stalls. 7/10 times. This is plumb back bovs and everything set up correctly. These are engines with cams and intakes make it worse. This is on R34 computers. Almost ever other ecu you can change it

Ok, Sorry i'm a bit lost....... so these cams are not mechanically stopped from over advancing/retarding and could smash engines by being 0 or 100 % duty in the wrong time? We setup VCT on engines that don't have VCT........ Has any one actually ever damaged a valve/piston from PWM VCT, or even switched VCT for that matter? has any one ever actually measured Crank degrees vs valve lift vs piston clearance? Im very interested. I have done plenty of PWM with all the cams (mostly 4) on engines. I have never hit a valve as a direct result of the VCT being setup incorrectly in the software, only being setup incorrectly mechanically. If you knew some of the lift/durations we run i think the word impossible would be thrown around a bit.

You sir are correct. You get a gold star

mph?

well.... Im no expert but how about a 130 mph thread Any skyline with 400rwkw should do 130mph. Im sure this would be way more interesting than a 500 kw thread. And back on topic. All this rubbish about compression ratio and boost I have only found interesting when I found a gudgeon pin on my dyno floor after a power run. And this was a built engine making way less power than a stocker. Then and only then I gave a shlt about compression ratio. But tuning engines at the track, when the pressure is on and everyone wants to go fast I go against what everyone "says". I run cylinders too hot, run way too much boost and way wrong mixtures on cast pistons and the things are flying! On heaps of compression and heaps of boost. But I am a hawk on the engines and monitor everything. And I guess what. If they are laggy...... we don't change compression.... we change the engine. Adjust cam timing, inlet manifold.... add vct.... what ever it takes to make the engines more efficient at lower engine speeds without sacrificing top end. And if it does sacrifice top end, we move rev limiters and diff gears. yes you can run 9:1 and 50 psi and 175 shot of gas. I can even show you the pistons (stock cast) But without the perfect engine combination your will make 464rwkw and get to 7254rpm at 36psi and literally push the engine through your sump on to the dyno floor. I can also show you this lol Work out exactly what you want out of your engine. If you want horsepower, go to a happy dyno save heaps of money and leave the track for everyone else

Drag, or track, or ski boat. Either way I don't think it would matter. You can choose the fuel. If the correct fuel for the application is used then it shouldn't matter what it is.

Im not being silly. Maybe my horsepower is different to every Nothing loaded here Nismoid, Just wondering if any one would divulge there secrets when the anti is upped slightly. Maybe I am getting old, and remember getting Smash Hits 88 on record for christmas as a kid..... But 500rwkw is a shit load of power. And people are making it on 35x's? I must be doing something wrong.

And the fuel was say 109, or C16 or methanol?

Hmm, quick question. What if the target power was 700rwkw? Does this change anything?

I have played this game before..... On methanol...... You are very correct not fun at all.

Well at the end of the day, after cylinder pressure and temp, Egts, MBT, BSFC, gudgeon pin size, exhaust wheel temp, oil pressure and temperature all we are doing in pleasuring the engine just how it likes it. Golden rule, give the engine what it wants. If it wants CDI it gets CDI. If it want 28 degrees of ignition timing at 30psi of boost and a 175 shot of gas then give it 28 degrees. Its kinda like an extremely high maintenance gf. You work and work for months just to be able to take it out and show it off to your friends then it craps in your face just to keep you keen (Or on the highway at the top of 4th gear) when it doesn't get its way.

We have run these coils on a 140mph 1jz running nos for the last 12 months. Very good coil charge time with amp saturation. Would I run them on 50+psi probably not. That's not to say that they wouldn't do it, I would not like to commit and say they will and then have to fit CDI any way. I have found that inductive just seems to run nicer with back to back tests. Engines just sound that little bit happier.

Umm........ Yes dwell is very good in the nistune. Its very easy to calc. Now your saying you are running AU coil packs and haven't changed the dwell yet....... Could this be the problem for your poor ignition ??

The dyno sheet only tells around 37% of the story. Its everything under full throttle that is the huge improvement. It drives away from 600rpm with no bumps or jerks. The gains in off boost driving are huge.

That would depend on what you did with the box. Id say any where between 1k - 7k GTR Box's are pretty cheap. Straight cut gears are not very cheap.

Ok..... I missed something....... and this is very important. Lambda:1 for E85 is important how every there is a small miss conception about how AFR meters actually read the air and fuel ratio. Now when all the oxygen is burnt in the combustion chamber and there are no hydrocarbons (raw fuel) left this is lambda 1 for any fuel. Oxy sensors read in lambda not air fuel ratio. Now we all know Lambda 1 for 98 octane is 14.55-14.80:1 depending on composition of the fuel and what additives are in it on that day. Regardless of the AFR you 02 will always read in lambda. Now, your AFR meter will convert Lambda to what ever calculation you put into it. So if you say that lambda 1 should display 9.76:1 then it will. An easy way to explain it is to show what happens if you change from 98 octane to methanol on the same tune..... Tune an engine to 14.7:1 (lambda 1) on a dyno for 98 octane. Drain the tank, fill with methanol Start engine...... now the engine will be super lean because Lambda 1 for methanol 6.4:1 So you add more fuel to your tune.... and what do you know...... 14.7 (petrol) on the dyno is still lambda 1 regardless of fuel type because that's what the sensor reads in but will still display 14.7 on the dyno because that's what you have told it.

2 things........ If the engine doesnt need 10.5:1 then it wouldnt get it. Tempretures are the decided of this one. You should probalby shoot Nissan, or ford, or toyota an email and tell their engineers that they have had it worng for years and they are wasting valuable fuel in the search of reliability. Also your idea of high power and dans idea of high power are probably 2 differnt things.

I have done it on the dyno. The EGT's are not fast enough to get an accurate result. It cooled if there was fuel added under decel for sure, it also cooled if no power/heat was generated in the combustion chamber. If the engine is tuned correctly you should never need to add extra fuel on decel. If your running a carby and you engine is over heating from excessive lean mixtures then yes...... running more fuel will help.... when its too lean

I dont think you are grasping the EGT thing......... The extra fuel will cool the piston. End of story. That is one of its jobs. Now when you have no bang.... you have no heat..... so your temps drop. Heat only becomes a problem when there is too much. A piston will last a limited time at 1000+ temps, very long time with EGT's of 500deg and even longer with EGT's of room tempreture. So if your EGT's of 750 at full throttle and you cool them another 70deg under decel your not going to gain anything in longevity just use more fuel.

depends on the car. Would have to be something easy to sell and cash. PM me if you have something.

Car now has broken 3rd gear. However it can still be test driven Price is now 17K with no reg/plates. They will be removed upon sale.