HYPED6

I surely have, In our cell I saw 0 difference. This is using the same Motec PLM on the same engine. With open (closed) air dyno cells, tuning say an RB25 at full throttle in one power cycle will consume 2.5 liters of air. Now if that engine is reving at 6000rpm thats 3000 power cycles so thats 7500 liters in 1 min. Thats a lot of air. And thats only NA. Imagain when you start to push 15/20/45 pound of boost through it. This is where the air you are tuning can get very hot and very contaminated very quickly. You would be suprised with the difference between Autronic/DD 4 wire sensor and a proper 5 wire 0-5V sensor. Both read the same at and around Lambda 1 but once you get into say 0.76 and lower the 4 wire wont show small changes where the 5 wire will soldure on. Let alone the 5 wire being way faster any way.

Does the dyno Cell you are tuning in have adequate air speed to supply the engine with enough fresh air? There shouldn't need to be a difference provided it is set up correctly. And with street cars are the ones that need the EGT's the most. They are the ones that when you are finished the tune, anything could happen and I mean anything. 4th gear standing start skids, they could tow a trailer, pull the engine out and stick it in a ski boat and hold it flat for an hour on the Murray river. For your average 300rwhp R33, yes EGT's are probably not so viable, but knowing how rich your engine needs to be, and knowing how rich it is are 2 completely different things.

Hey guys, Im not expert, but I think this is a very good topic. One that is grossly miss under stood and one that is very important for engine longevity. Now. AFR's are primarily there for thermodynamics. There are many factors in choosing the correct A/F ratio for an engine than just boost levels. There are many guys who have done the hard yards, blown up a few engines in the process and will keep there information closely guarded. Now. Engine type is very important. How many valves, piston type, head design all play a major part in choosing the correct AFR. All these things play a major part in removing heat from the combustion chamber. Which is exactly what we are trying to do with the fuel. Is the engine boosted, How is it boosted? Is it supercharged, Turbo, Nos, or a combination or all of the above. Does it have forged pistons? As they can take a little more heat than there cast brother. Fuel type is obviously important. Its funny now that E85 is commercially available there are a lot of theories being thrown around about EGT's, Lambda's and so on and so forth. Now every engine has to be taken on a case by case basis for AFR. I have seen 140+mph 1JZ's with standard pistons rods and cams running Lambda of 0.78 because it had the correct fuels (yes fuels, we had to mix 3 fuels to get the correct blend for this application) to support it. I have also seen 140+mph 1JZ's running 0.69 lambda (10.0:1) because for thermal dynamics it needed it. On the other side of the coin, 600 rwhp stock piston turbo LS1's at 0.76:1 on a pump methanol blend. An RB3025 with a 35R.... on E85 Lambda 0.90 is where it worked its best. Now how can you know what s right for what engine? Measure the air coming out, asses what you are trying to achieve with the engine and its general usage. Use individual cylinder EGT's. That way you know exactly the tempreture of the air coming out of the cylinder. Have a pre determined heat ceiling and no matter how excited you get, don't go over it. Don't even go near it. Just like timing, use the richest or leanest possible mixture to achieve your desired results. I will move an AFR from 12.3:1 to 11.1:1 and I may loose 10 rwhp but I may also loose 100deg cylinder temp. I know what one I'd rather. I have seen twin supercharged 1UZfe's running 13.5:1 on BP98 with EGT's in the 600c. Now for you kids playing at home for a forged piston engine, Thats low. I have also seen RB26's with -5's on 18 psi needed to be run near 10.2:1 AFR because the EGT's where soaring over 800c. Not so good for cast pistons. How ever, By measuring, this engine went on to make well over 450rwkw on NOS and is still alive today A good rule of thumb, and this is measuring around 1 inch from the head is Cast pistons, 750c. Forged will live with 900+, how ever most of the time its not needed to go any where near this so I usually aim for around the 800-850 mark, or even lower if the engine allows. This is from engine that I have seen. None of them melt pistons and thats why they get tuned that way. So Choosing the correct AFR for your engine is up to your engine. Choosing the right tuner that has all the information necessary is up to you. End of write up. (rant)

Can any one point me to the information that says E85 gives a higher EGT than 98?

There is another option from 3 or even 4 044's. I use 2 x Pierburg pumps on my GTR. out of 1 dash 6 line (my return from my reg) at 40psi I get 12.5 liters a min. The also are a sucker and a pusher so no need to have them fed by other pumps. Has seen around 610rwhp with no dramas at all. They are ethanol/methanol friendly as well. I actually have no surge tank, but have 2 x Dash 10 lines feed into my tank with strainers connected directly to the fuel line. Obviously if I have descent G's and under a 1/4 of a tank I will have issues but until then I can hold it flat for ages and not have a drama. Always handy if you are towing a trailer, up a hill in the sand

Just drop your return line off your reg and run into a measuring container. Start your engine and wait 15 sec. Thats the best way to measure how much flow you have at system voltage. But you also have to remember, as pressuer increases flow decreases. So as your 1:1 reg starts working your fuel pump flow will decrease.

I have found E85 Not that bad. Yes you use a lot, but EGT's are much lower and really to get the most out of it you need to be measuring them. Think 3025 35r, 24 psi on 98 Lambda of 0.78 EGT's nudging 800c Around 490rwhp Same engine 24psi E85 0.8 Lambda EGT's 700c 520 rwhp Then we lean it out, 0.85, 0.9, 0.95 where we ended up. EGT's 770c Measured at the Hottest cylinder 560rwhp Going from 0.78 to 0.95 made the fuel usage not to bad. But defiantly need EGT's to get the best out of it.

A real world example. I ran these numbers on an engine we where doing development on. 2.5 6 cylinder. Had 2 x 044 and a 3 liter surge tank. Wasn't even making 600rwhp through an auto and we where running 30% Meth and 70% 98. The engine was tuned to perfection on the dyno. Even as far as Indervidual cylinder EGT's so we knew where weren't going to melt anything. Now I wish I had have run the numbers earlier because the thing made it 380 meters of a 400 meter drag run and melted 2 pistons. We now have a 20 liter surge tank and 3 x 044's

There are too many variables. One is Voltage. 044's do pump quite a bit more the better the voltage in a 12-15 volt system. Another is how long you need to generate that power for. Sounds funny but think of it this way. 2 x 044's at 40 psi will flow around 7 Liters a min. Say your surge tank is 3 liters and your in tank pump can flow 3 liters a min at 0 psi. Now say your 1600cc injectors are at 75% duty. So thats 1200cc per cylinder and 7.2 (7200cc) liters a min is being consumed. Now, Hold your engine flat for 10 seconds or an average power run. So your engine will consume 1.2 Liters from your surge tank. Would have returned nothing from the fuel system but your in tank has supplied 500cc of fuel. Now hold your engine flat for 40 seconds. You will consume 4.8 liters of fuel. Again nothing is being returned from your rail. Your in tank pump has supplied 2 liters soo all up you have had 5 liters if fuel available and only used 4.8........ Now hold it flat for a minute.

One thing that you guys are missing is rpm ceiling. The harder you rev your engine, The smaller the opportunity to deliver the correct amount of fuel that is required. An XR6 turbo, that will make the same horsepower at 6000rpm as an RB26 that makes it at 8500 will be able to get away with smaller injectors. The same amount of fuel is required for the same horse power but there is more time to deliver it on the XR6. Also to the guys that are making 400+Rwkw on -5's. Are you using stock exhaust manifolds?

Sold. Please delete

Price Drop $400

Hey Mate, do the manifolds have the factory heat shields? Also what brand are the cam gears. Thanks

Turbo timer still here

Still here guys

Injectors still here

Sold

http://www.shop.fqperformance.com/images/t...c_b-spec_ii.jpg Have a look there. They are a pretty common controller

Thanks for That. Leave it with me, I might just be able to find an upper half

As title says Going to Indy injectors. can be picked up from Cold Coast or mailed in OZ for $20 PM or 0404812797

As title says. Looking for $200 or trade for Factory Air box. Can post to any where in OZ for $20 or pickup from Gold Coast PM or 0404812797

Not needed any more. Harness may suit other Nissan's how ever it came out of my 32 GTR Can be picked up fr the Gold Coast or mail to anywhere in Australia for an extra $20 PM or 0404812797

Not Needed any more. Upgrading ECU that can do boost control Comes with solenoid, filter, boost line, Wiring etc. Still in great condition $250 PickUp or can be posted to any where in Australia for $20 PM or 0404812797

As title says, Looking for a factory 32 GTR airbox. Will trade for almost new Apexi twin filter kit or quite happy to pay cash PM or Mobile 0404812797