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Pretty certain those are just OEM 18" coupe wheels repainted in gloss black. PM lyons he's got a set for sale but in factory shadow chrome.

Wow, the drop with the Pedders springs actually looks really good! Love the Anniversary wheels too. Are you running 225/45 and 245/45 tires? You shouldn't have much problem offloading your Pedders springs on here as there is bound to be someone who wants that kinda drop.

1995 Proton Wira GLi 1.5L Hatchback 5SP Manual 153XXX kms Electric front windows JVC CD player Rego till Nov 09 Safety Certificate will be provided with sale Great little runaround car. Bodywork needs a bit of TLC. Motor still runs strong, not blowing any smoke at all, Gearbox is still smooth as with gear changes. Cheap on fuel too. Very reliable daily driver when your pride and joy sits in your garage! Looking for $4.5K ono. Inspections welcome Brisbane Southside. Any questions PM me please.

No offence but the air filter replacement on a V is not a 2 second job. I thought so too at the beginning but it involves removing the whole air box before being able to replace the panel filter. Here is a DIY video: If you are doing the filter replacement, the Z tube can be installed at the same time since you have got everything out already.

Cool, that was exactly what mine was corrected to -1.5 after I lowered it on 350z suspension. The lower you go the more natural camber you will have.

How did you solve your problem?

They do actually but only to a very minimal degree. I had a wheel allignment done on my 35 months ago and rear cambers were corrected slightly. I Also remember my R34 had a little bit of camber correction done as well. It is very marginal but there is a small degree in there. Failing which most people get camber kits. I would not recommend you play with those adjustments but rather get it to a wheel allignment specialist. Easy fix would be to roll the inner lip.

45psi IMO is overkill. 38 front and 36 rear is the norm. Nitrogen is probably more wank factor than anything. It apparently does not expand or contract as much due to heat.

Camerons Bodyworks at Coopers Plains. The before and after pic are showing on my PC fine...

I wouldn't worry about painting the whole car unless absolutely neccessary. Spend around $400 and get a pro detailer to do some paint correction and full detail to bring your paint back to new car condition will be more worth it.

From memory, it was around $200 for the front, sides and rears to be painted.

Get them painted/color coded like what I did. Before: After: Will look much cleaner and make the car look lower than it actually is too.

Wow, can't believe you haven't put them on your car...I miss those wheels..

Before: Then: Then: Now:

I had a similar issue with my Tein Super Streets years ago...a wise forum member told me to spray WD40 on the springs which I did...problem solved...no harm trying it out.

I'm not a lawyer but when u handed them the keys to your car the duty of care rests with them unless you signed a disclaimer that they would not be liable for any loss or damage to your car while in their care. But honestly...you've been driving a 30K+ car around for 6 months with no full comp insurance? Defies logic...no disrespect but if it was a shitbox $5000 car I can understand..it will be a pretty expensive lesson for you. If I were you I wouldn't be seeking legal advice from the forum...I'd be on the phone quick smart to a lawyer.

Tramlining is the tendency of a vehicle's wheels to follow the contours in the surface upon which it runs. The term comes from the tendency of a car's wheels to follow the normally recessed rails of street trams, without driver input in the same way that the train does. Tramlining can usually be blamed on tires, and its incidence depends greatly on the model of tire and its state of wear. Although not normally dangerous, at very high speeds it can become a source of instability. Retrieved from "http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tramlining"

For a sedan they would be fine, for a coupe no. Tramlining in some cases is a neccessary evil...u learn to live with it at the expense of wider track and improved handling.

I believe the words of wisdom came from here:

Totally agree...its an auto afterall and if they didn't want us to depress the accelerator while changing gears they would have given us a clutch.

the time it took for you to rant in this thread you could have been driving one by now...the buyer does not always have the upper hand. If the car is as good as you say it is and the seller knows this then he still holds most of the cards. you live and learn...move on there are other fish in the sea.

Ok, the way I see it all he wants to do is wait around at the workshop while the inspection is done? I don't see that as being unreasonable, I would be the same if I was selling my car. No way am I going to let you drive my car away for an inspection without me being present, deposit or not deposit. If the buyer does not want the seller to be present at the workshop while the inspection is done I would be suspect of the buyer not the seller.

If you want one locally Nissan should have it but you will be paying through your nose. Failing that wreckers would be a good bet. Otherwise eBay or from the us. Check the 350z-tech forum they do pop up from time to time.

Jayde from Dulvari Prestige is the person I believe you are looking for. His number is somewhere in one of those detailing threads in this section. Otherwise, he is also found on this website. http://detailparadise.com.au/modules.php?n...opic&t=4969

Here you go mate. http://detailparadise.com.au/modules.php?o...ayreg&rg=24 Check out the forums section with examples of their work. These are pros who can make even factory paint jobs look even better with all kinds of paint correction methods. Not cheap though but worth every penny so good luck.