NSNPWR

No, that will def not be the cause...i'd be rechecking all vac lines....

Im not backpedalling, just questioning the sh1t you post as fact when its not always the case...youre previous statement about air temps not being as important as fuel/ignition was wrong, get over it. I would put my house on the fact that your experience with dump pipes is not the norm and that 99% of the time people will make gains from aftermarket dump pipes...maybe you scored some 'freak' dump pipes. Youre as good as alleging the manufacturers of a/m dumps are lying when they back to back test their product and show gains? Is that what youre suggesting, indirectly?

Yeah below a litre or so and you'll start get the warning light etc...doesnt mean in the meantime the little amount of oil thats left isnt BOILING along with your bearings etc etc etc.... Could be the oil return or feed...if its not pissing out under pressure then its probably the oil return...hose could be split and you wouldnt even know it unless it was in your hand.

So your seat of the pants dyno would pick up a 20kw difference? Lol..... ...is this the same seat of pants dyno you determined your GT30 equipped RB25 made 300rwkw on and then only went on to run 115mph?

IS that boot logo intentionally crooked?

So what this says to me is the stock bumps choke an exhaust....

So NO retuning was done at all? Got graphs? Power was identical was it? Personally I find this very hard to believe, im sure im not alone...

As above, bought this through importmonster a month or so back....want what I paid for it as I changed plans and havent used it... $220.

Excuse me good sir, but...

Gag.

1 person 1 comment...If im back pedalling then where do you stand??? Your original statement was that inlet temps were not as important a factor as ignition or fuel? And now? Lets not forget what you posted to begin with... Cold air is inevitably denser....meaning theyre directly related and equally important... And I called your lover an idiot because what he said made no sense. Better make an announcement to all turbo owners...beware of cold air....your car will ping.... I stand by what I was originally saying in that cold air can create an increase in boost which can lead to a lean mixture...if youre tuner has half a brain in his head then he wont tune to 12.5:1 and the cold air shouldnt pose a problem...

What NickR33 wrote makes perfect sense aswell and corrects some of what I was actually trying to say. This is why most tuners will leave some extra fuel in the map to allow for these sorts of variables...unless youre running mega $$$ Motec or similar ECUs which may have the ability to auto correct...?

Do you doubt that this actually happens?..... I do not know and will not pretend to know the physics of it but the most logical comparison I can make is a big laggy turbo equipped car using NOS on the start line to bring the turbo on boost...clearly there is a link between a cold, dense intake charge and the way a turbo responds to it. Heres a quick Google search for you- 'overboost in cold air' And some comments of various experiences in relation to cold air and effects on boost levels...

Whats it been trimmed in mate? I'd be interested if it was in the factory trim or something very very close to that....

1. The potential increase in boost from the cold dense air is what causes mixtures to lean out not the fact the air is cold/dense.

Well, seems the man can never be wrong and when a few people disagree with something he says...in come the Vic Club members...lol. Its a pretty simple question, would you rather flog your car on a 35 degree day or on an 18 degree day? Would you even bother flogging your car on the 35 degree day?

I know its not the only factor but its equally as important as timing/fuel etc and will to an extent determine how much timing you can actually run... A 15 degree difference in ambient temp is not just 'a few degrees' it is significant and the difference in the under bonnet temps would differ more than 15 degrees on the 2 days... For cool, dense air to induce knock the tune must have been right on the edge as it was and unless the car is making more boost from the cooler air then I do not believe it would cause lean mixtures. Ive never heard of anyone retuning for winter or cooler conditions (maybe adjusting boost controller) but I have for hot conditions for obvious reasons. And re your post above, are you suggesting cold air is more likely to cause knock over hot air? Lol.................is this nissansilvia.com? Do you consider the word of some random 'Ash' groupy on the internet 'fact'? Lol................

You sir are an idiot...sorry.

Not sure what youre talking about either and im not sure youre sure what youre talking about.... Using your logic above my car shouldnt knock on hot days as the mixtures would be RICH due to less o2 and more fuel??? This is exactly the opposite to what actually occurs...on a hot day, the car is more likely to knock due to the hot intake temps...sooooo, I believe this contradicts your statement about inlet temps not being as important as the amount of air??? vs timing vs fuel etc.....? Inlet air temps are directly related to knock levels, fact. The only reason it would knock with cold, dense air is from the turbo making a few extra psi, creating potential for lean A/F ratios depending how much fuel the tuner left in it originally.... As for your theory of it being a cell, its not something that he's noticed before by the sounds of it so unless that cell magically changed itself, I cant see how all of a sudden its started giving these high knock readings? Did you get the fuel form the same servo MarkoR1?.....

Go throw some octane booster in it and a fresh tank of 98 from a differnt servo.... Dont know how cooler air can cause det??? Tuned on 33 deg day and knocking on 18 deg day? Cooler denser air = less prone to det.... My money would be on a shitty batch of fuel...seems to make sense in that the more boost you pull out of it the less it pings.... Safe bet is on the fuel....Get a good octane booster and fresh fuel in it...

Might sound obvious but have you tried NISSAN? I got brand new interior 1/4 window trims last week from them for 32 GTR...just call with your VIN BNR32******* and they can find it for you...

Pillow ball tops are just sh1thouse on the street anyway...

Yeah just the inside section so you need your own plastic covers off your original lights, suit 32 2-Door and yes they fit fine on my car and ALL the individual lights worked. Plug straight into the existing loom aswell.

Lights only, no surrounds, $100 delivered. Just pulled them out of mine, all working.

Stick the cat back in and it will fix the issue....and rob you of HP...but you dont really have much of a choice if you wanna control boost with that internally gated hiflowed turbo.....as Pal said, he put a restrictor in the exhaust and it held 11psi, not sure either where the connection is between ECU/Injectors and overboosting.... If as I mentioned above you do a very quick and simple test, disconnect the actuator rod from wastegate swing arm and drive it...if it still makes sh1tloads of boost then you need to restrict the exhaust, bleed off boost through some means or try porting the internal gate right out and put like an XR6 turbo wastegate flap in there... This issue is very common...perhaps speak to the Turbo builder about it and the decat etc...when I was having this issue I spoke with Bill at ATS, Adam at Allan engineering in Adelaide and Kyle (6BOOST) and all suggested that the combination of a free-flowing exhaust (decat) with a small internally gated hiflowed turbo was an ideal combo to create this issue...