NSNPWR

Speak to an engine builder, someone like Red R Racing that builds 26s day in day out...

Running 18x10 +12F +11R with a 265/35 tire. Get something around 9-10" wide with offsets in the 20s on GTR...minimum.

Do it....then tell us all...please

Mine with -7s and Tomei type B's set at '0' in/ex (for now) feels stronger on 11psi than it did with -7s and stock cams (inlet +1 exhaust 0) at 14.5psi... No doubt in my mind its on boost earlier and feels fatter around 3500-4000 once it comes on. Yet to dyno but happy with my seat of the pants dyno results for now.

Not trying to derail this thread but...like all things, GTiR can def be made to handle with some basic upgrades, my brothers car is a perfect example, it was an understeering, nose diving, pig of a thing when he first got it but swaybars, springs/shocks, camber and castor soon sorted that out....they are front heavy and they failed in all forms of rallying for this reason...im not sure what cooling issues youre aware of but cooling is not an issue on the street, you can turf the top mount interwarmer with a front mount kit for a few hundred bucks...like I said, theyre no EVO but then theyre a lot older than an EVO! Pricing under $10k, theyre a potential bargain IMO... Back on topic

Can also try crimping the top of the dipstick tube a touch with some pliers to make it a tighter seal...but i'd be looking into why its doing it if its just started doing it out of the blue...

GTR is not my idea of a daily at all, particularly a 32 GTR, 34 perhaps?...EVO can be peddled around quite comfortably, small, economical but fast when you need them to be...you cant really compare a small capacity, twin turbo 6 cylinder like the RB26 with a comparitively large capacity 4 cylinder as found in the Evo... My brothers Pulsar GTiR, whilst no Evo, is another great example of small 4 cylinders AWD cars, bolt on suspension mods (swaybars, springs/shocks, camber/castor kits - sorted out the understeer issues) and performance mods (cooler, zorst, boost up), making close enough to 200awkw, it is a totally different car to drive compared to a GTR, punchy and a lot of fun to throw around...i'd have a properly modded one in a flash.

Prices? Pics? More detail on exactly what it is you have...what sort of suspension is it?

Try dropping the boost or pulling a few degrees of timing from the map and see what happens...every chance that now its got a decent clutch in it that the motors under more load, making more power and running lean?

If you only want one setting and really, why would you want anymore than that? Get a Turbotech...have used succesfully on several cars with both internal and externally gated turbos...hold boost rock solid.

S15 are a Garrett unit anyway and not really any cheaper to buy 2nd hand? And if youre buying one second hand, why not just buy some R34 N1s (aka -7s) or find a pair of rebuilt, steel wheeled stock GTR turbos?

Not sure if Nistune has the same capabilities but with PFC obviously you can add the Boost Control option...PFC seems to be a bit more flexible allowing home tuners to make some adjustments in the cabin from the hand controller (pulling timing, trimming injectors etc). Much of a muchness though, really.

My inlet was '+1' and exhaust was left at '0' when it had stock cams...so every car is definitely different.

Thanks for the replies all...wondering did you guys retain the little restrictor in the line running to the turbo inlet? I was able to use the factory line and noticed when I had it off that it had a little metal restrictor/filter(?) inside it...

Bump, negotiable.

Cool, this is the same, small slit in the tube running through the guts of the can...I was running nothing previously and the dipstick never popped out, ever... Does the install look correct? Ive seen one where someone had looped the 2 side breathers around the back so they connected up but doing this this wouldnt really provide any extra ventilation as such? And I blew threw the can easy as before I fitted it so pretty sure theres no restriction in the can itself, my only concern with the install is the 90 degree elbow on the drivers side line from the PCV, not ideal.

Just wondering if anyone else has experienced this with their 26s... I recently installed one of the over cam cover, barrel style oil/air separators on my 32 GTR, was previously running the factory lines without issue. Has been running the can now for about a week, got home last night after giving it a bit of stick (revved it to 7200 a few times max) and noticed oil on the driveway, popped bonnet and noticed the dipstick had popped out and allowed oil to blow on the drivers side inner guard... Now, ive had motors in the past with busted pistons and broken ringlands and know that this can be an indicator that all is not well but i'm 100% sure that the motor is healthy, its a forged build and only running 11psi with knock reading no higher than 30 on average... I run it about 500ml over filled with oil... Im convinced this can is causing a restriction and creating excess crankcase pressure causing it to look for other ways out ie. via the dipstick tube... Has anyone else had this issue with this style of separator? Pic of install, any issues anyone can see???

As above, I need an upgraded aftermarket rear swaybar for my 32 GTR...2nd hand or a good price for new... Cheers.

Is this springs and shocks? If it is with springs, brand? Rates? Any chance of some pics? How old are they?

How hard are you revving it, that's a big turbo, might not make any boost till 5000ish???

Not an issue but the Type A are 256/260 - 9.15 arent they?

I would definitely say that this is also the case with the Koni Yellows I got from Importmonster, from what ive read the valving on the Koni yellow is very hard...time for some new springs or coilovers...

Yeah, I know mate, its strange, they arent that low at all but even when the car is stationary, I can see the shock piston is a long way through its stroke...and theyre definitely not worn, I have damper wound right up and they're firm as, it rides sweet over nice flowing bumps. Do you know what spring rates Whiteline are?

9100 rpm...f**k yeah, no wonder it sounded so good in car...

You need some serious extension bars and knuckles to get at the 4 bolts holding the AAC to the bottom of the manifold and come it from underneath from...thats the easiest way to do it, unbolt the AAC valve with all the hoses attached...I was lucky enough to have a very skilled and cheap mechanic friend of mine take mine off...I did what I could but he did the rest and watching him attack it looked painful...lol. Not an easy job.