NSNPWR

Car passed Regency first time, is now SA Registered, Power FC refitted and EBC, just had a fresh tint job on the wkend.

Dont happen to have an aftermarket Mechanical Oil Pressure gauge fitted in your cabin do you?

Dude, I read your other thread and thought wtf....and here we have the result...put the stock coils back on, clearly your problem was not your coilpacks...a faulty coilpack will generally give you a misfire or crappy idle which may clear under load...you had some sort of power loss, not a misfire of any kind....I find it highly unlikely you had a problem with your ignition system...as Nismoid said, factory setup good for big numbers...sh1t, even a single coil setup on a VL can make 300rwkw+....Nissan weren't idiots when they designed these things. Change it back.

Cheers mate, will have a bit more of a look!

Cheers mate, so the factory assemblies have a collar? From inspection, they dont? As I posted up top, we used the 2 nut method on the Konis and they work fine, as or the other set, well, theres not enough threaded section to use a nut either side of the top hat as well as the rubber bush and washer required on the top side...where would the collar secure to?

Anyone got any ideas, ive spoken to my mechanic and even he cant explain it...just doesnt make sense...they are, in theory, a direct replacement using the factory top hats so im lost as to what could be causing this to happen... I tried the Agreves in there yesterday and it did the same thing...assembled the spring/shock, all seemed fine, spring was held in place nicely, fitted the spring/shock assembly up to the car, lowered it down and bounced it around...you can see the shaft of the shock moving up through the top hat? Why? The factory setup only has one nut on top!

Cheers, but what I dont get is why these shocks require this arrangement (both aftermarket sets I have) and the factory rears with the same springs dont?

Hoping someone can shed some light on how the rears of these go together... Ive got 2 full sets of circlip height adjustable shocks, Koni Yellows and a set of Agreves.... The fronts no issue...the rears im confused about how they go together... The Konis came with 2 flat nuts for securing the top hat...I didnt click to start with as to why they came with 2 nuts and originally used 1 nylon nut, mounted the strut up in the caronly to realise that the shock was not working and the car was just bouncing around on the spring....pulled them apart and after some thought, I put one flat nut under the top hat and another nut on top, locking it in place...job done...seemed to work fine beside bottoming out due to it being too low on the lowest circlip setting... My question is, why do these aftermarket shocks require a nut either side of the factory top hat? I just cannot figure it out, ive used these same springs with factory strut/shocks and not had a problem... Hoping someone can shed some light on this!!!

Water leak could just be a Welch plug....

Look where the dark blue line is heading up top...Thats a pretty steep climb its on at 5000ish by the looks of it isnt it?

Just do as Nismoid said, check the tags once its all apart...get a small manouevrable mirror and a torch and have a look...should not be that hard to get the numbers if its all in bits. Once you have the numbers, you can usually confirm on the Garrett website exactly what they are.

Just read the whole thread, looks like I missed alot of it... If I was a betting man, i'd say that *********built your motor? I say that based on my own personal experience with an SR I had built by them many years ago...if im right, it would seem he still has no clue about putting Jap motors together...glad youre getting looked after, from all accounts your motor is in good hands, good luck with it mate. Edited by SLED You're sailing pretty close to the wind here champ. I suggest you go and familiarize yourself with the forum rules before even 1 more post.

I just put some pics up of mine mate with 18x10s +12F and +11R, 265/35/18 Potenzas.... You will need to roll guards front and rear...fronts will be the issue, they will need to rolled right up close to or flush with the guard...being alloy, use a rubber/nylon mallet and heat...be very careful rolling the rears, they dont roll real well due to the curved design of the lip! Dont go too aggressive with them, I dont think they need to rolled up flush on the rears...

32 GTR 18x10 +12F +11R 265/35/18 Potenzas Rolled rears, slightly rolled fronts...havent pushed it in the hills but have a feeling it may require more massaging on the fronts...

This would rely heavily on baffling or plates inside the can to keep oil away from the line leading to the turbo inlet...is it well baffled? Hope so...otherwise, totally pointless. Are you doing something with the PCV valve??

Size and brand please?

TTT.

Hey mate, sorry but Red R Racing transfered me the money for the Airbox today so its sold, everything else I still have...Lots of enquiries, not so much $$$....

Just a quick update, passed inspection today, think i scored the best Inspector there...only down side was I broke the connector off my PFC Hand Controller, I had left it in the car as it wasnt connected and me and the Inpsector exchanged views on the matter...I got a little frustrated and pulled a bit harder than I should have and it broke...exhaust was super quiet, went to 92Db then settled at 86Db...full jap system with metal cat too...wtf? Does have 2 big mufflers...Anyway, im sure it can be fixed, stoked to have passed! Anyone know anyone that fixes PFC Hand Controllers???...

I got the 33 rims, they look good, see how I go, my brother got his GTiR through with retreads...if thats all they knock me back for i'll be pretty pleased to be honest.

Rather than start a whole new thread figured i'd ask this here... Has anyone ever been picked on for having retreads when going through Regency?....Im going tomorrow and I just noticed on my Tire Placard in the fine print that my GTR requires a 'V' Rated tire 240km/h....my intention was to borrow a set of 33 stockies with retreads...has anyone ever been shafted for this?

Because for most peoples applications, a stock GTR cooler or a Chinese brand will do the job for a 1/4 of the price...maybe try selling the hard pipe kit separately? Good luck mate.

No prob mate, apologies again for getting the brands mixed up....Crazy hard, Amazing Hard, Excellent Hard, Super hard, WTF? LOL......

Pics - Also have a pair of M's pods, painted wrinkle black, good condition, $80.

Is it running a Power FC?