NSNPWR

Hey mate, yes its an '89 and thats cool, can understand that it wont appeal to everyone in its current form but really the only stock parts are the ECU and Springs/Struts. ECU is a simple swap back to the PFC, refitting the PFC Boost Controller is a piece of piss (2 vac lines) and the Struts are easy as to swap over in these things. Cheers for your interest.

Considering selling my 32 GTR, I just have not had the time to spend on or in the car and am considering going back to one car... Heres some details: Motor Receipts from previous owner for 2 rebuilds...appears first one died... Current engine rebuilt by Serge of John French Motors in QLD approx 10000kms on this build. 33 Block and Crank Forged pistons Mild head porting Competition Valve Seats ARP Head and Main studs + Rod Bolts Tomei Gasket kit -7 Turbos Tomei Cam gears Apexi PFC with Boost control kit SX Fuel pressure Reg Brand new HKS pods and custom piping, all neatly mounted, nice and secure Ceramic coated split dumps into full system including big metal cat, exhaust is very quiet Recently fitted Tomei Type B cams (yet to be retuned) All receipts for engine build available totalling some $10k. Will also include a set of brand new Siemens 740cc Injectors Just had engine covers painted candy red and inlet manifold/twin turbo pipe Ceramic coated...$$$ Gearbox/Clutch Single plate cushion button with Billet Flywheel C's Short Shifter Wheels/Tires 18x10 +12F +11R Work GT-Ps in Diamond finish, mint condition, just bought these through Importmonster and was amazed at the condition, no rash Bridgestone Potenza 265/35/18s Suspension Brand new adjustable Selby front swaybar. Cusco front strut brace Rear strut brace Currently sitting on stock shocks/springs for roadworthy inspection, will come with set of Koni Yellow Height/Damper adjustable shocks and Whiteline lowered springs Original interior is very clean, original steering wheel restitched in black leather with red stitching. Car was resprayed (beside the bonnet) a few years ago so body is nice and straight and no rust. For those interested - I bought this car from QLD and it was pretty untidy in general when purchased...ive spent ALOT of time and money already getting it to where it is, genuine badges etc arent cheap! The car is currently out of reg and ive got it to a point where its ready for its inspection, its running stock ECU, stock Suspension, high mount stop light fitted, all the bits required to pass. Im not going to go into too much detail but long story short, Transport SA didnt recognise the QLD Mod Plate used when it was originally Complianced way back when so it requires an inspection here in SA for registration. I will include everything required to return the car to its previous state, it is not alot of work. Also have a polished catch can (over the cam cover style) and whiteline front camber kit to go with the car. Some pics, call if genuinely interested. With a little work refitting a few parts and a tune it will make low 300rwkw on 18ish psi. Was already making 270rwkw on 14psi before cams were fitted. Sits a little mexican at stock ride height but should tuck in nicely once lowered.... With front jacked up, gives some idea how rear will sit once lowered... $23.5k May also consider swaps for something of interest, tough S15, not sure what else would grab me...EVO, Supra, old school SR Datto? 0412 957 615

So wouldnt some bigger aftermarket dump pipes tie in with this concept? The same logic of being able to run more timing surely applies, factory dumps are shocking lookin things with all their castings and restrictions. Im not sure why'd you do the cat and not the dumps...not stirring just sayin, you cant look at the cat and the factory dumps and say one poses more of restriction than the other, all the heat is in the first foot or so of the exhaust.

I had a 1/4 far worse than that repaired on a 180SX a few years back...found some guy that was prepared to give it a crack when everyone else was telling me $4k-$5k to unpick the damaged one and replace... A good Panel Beater will get that looking sweet, they can get excellent access from inside with the interior trim off, will require some filler no doubt but nothing wrong with that if its prepared properly.

Cheers mate, was a bit of rubbing back but not a lot of work...as well as the fact that they are usually unpainted stock, I got the idea from this 33, tough looking car...did want.

Satin black Colour coded...and scuffed to the sh1t house...

I'd stick a pic up if I could...let us know how you get on. Ever asked Nissan if they have any OEM lips?............................................$$$$$$$

Mine hasnt cracked at all but it scuffs like every other paint does, I think its a semi Nurathane (?) rubbery paint...my brother did his side skirts on his GTiR Pulsar in it too, looks good. I guess the good thing has been its very easy to touch up if and when you do mark it going in a driveway etc...quick mask up of the area and give it a lick...the brand is Motospray 'Bumper Spray', the can is yellow, black lid.

I couldnt find anything when I redid mine mate, I fear that even if they dont damage the plastic as such it will be badly stained being a porous/grainy finish...I ended up spraying mine in Satin Black bumper paint which has a slight texture to it when it dries, looks good...but agree 100% that factory unpainted looks best. Let me know how you go...I considered a dull grey paint of some sort as another option but couldnt find a colour I was happy with.

Check the colour of your plugs, greenish tinge on one or more will obviously indicate Coolant.... Had similar problems/symptoms as you on an RB30ET making good power...we pulled the plugs and #6 was green and moist all around the electrode, car would randomly misfire once it got up in the high rpm, temperature would creep around, run slightly warmer than normal...we changed the plugs for fresh ones and the misfire went away briefly...until the plug got wet again after a few squirts, then it came back! I'd say from what youve described and as you mentioned, youve got a head gasket issue, take it for a good drive then pull plugs and check their colour.

I fit Tomei Type-B's to my 26 a little while ago. Some things you might like to know...despite what others might say, I got the motor to TDC and zip tied the cam gears to the belt, the gears are a little tricky to get back on doing it this way when reassembling but its def do-able. Removing and reinstalling the cams is easy enough, just unbolt the caps in the factory sequence and do the same when refitting, be very careful when retorqueing the cam cap bolts and use a small 1/4 Drive inch/lb torque wrench or similar, they are piddly little 6mm bolts and are very easy to over torque and snap!...You will likely need to replace the cam seals, its worth doing if they havent been done even if you get them off without damaging them at all. Use sufficient assembly lube on the cam lobes, lifters etc. If youre not at all mechanically minded, I wouldnt take this on yourself, you'll need a timing light etc once youre done to check timing. Good luck.

My RB20s is breaking tractions in every gear at 5800rpm. Im making two hundred firty kilowatts at the wheels, running chopped springs and 10 degree neg cambers on the rear, my tires are below the indicators and hard as a cats head...any suggestions how can I stop this torqueless animal spinning the wheels, no one else I know with an RB20 has this problem, is mine one of these illusive factory 'freak' motors? Thank god you got banned, youre a goose plan-b.

Look at a 6BOOST maifold, particularly the flange...he has purposely left a lip around the flange and even gone as far as testing the shape of the exit at the flange, lip + oval shaped exit...his manifolds are second to none... I think youre wasting your time match porting the flange, you then have the factory runners with all the bumps and casting lumps in them anyway. Just leave them, lot of work for little if any gain at all.

Hi all Wondering if anyone knows how I can get in touch with Jarrrod of Fat Motorsport, ive been told by the guys at Car Torque on Nth Tce that he can rebuild shocks...they gave me a mobile number but either its no longer active or theres some major issue with it as it wont even ring... Any help appreciated.

My brother scored a set of Aragosta Damper and Circlip height Adjustable shocks. Theyve never been used but we are not actually sure how old they are. They came in the original boxes and plastic and are clearly brand new. My question is, 3 out of 4 shocks return at the same rate when compressed, the 4th shock returns much slower and when the damper is wound to full hard, it barely returns at all. From conversations ive had, im told this shock is low on gas, so a few questions, how did it become low on gas when clearly it is brand new and who can regas it, preferably in Sth Aust? I have Googled and spoke with various suspension 'experts' but have had no luck in finding someone that can help. Cheers.

Does anyone actually know what rates the Whiteline Springs are? I have them in my 32 GTR and am about to fit them up to some Aragosta damper/circlip height adjust shocks.

Pretty sure the stuff is called Stone Guard, is a textured finish, as mentioned above its used along sill panels etc, looks good I reckon.

Im not sure Wilshire actually do steering wheels? Have you had one done there? Heres the Autospeed link - http://autospeed.com/A_109733/cms/article.html and the contact details, nice guy that runs the business too, very helpful - ATUC (Automotive Trim and Upholstery Contractors) +61 8 8243 1383

Long story short, had the rear guards rolled on my 32 GTR as just bought some Volks in 18x10+11R+12F..... The inside lip rolled up perfectly flat to the panel with no cracking but a few small dimples have appeared along the edge, im wondering if anyone else has had this happen when theyve had theirs done? I figured it is because of the shape of the panel as it comes down to the wheel arch, there is a curved edge there factory and perhaps by pushing this out a touch has caused some minor stretching and resultant dimples/indentations. Just curious to know if anyone else has done it and experienced this.

The 32 wheel does have a grain in it when new, the reason yours doesnt is because its 20 years old...same as my brothers GTiR wheel, its gone smooth as smooth, if you run your nail along it you will scratch it badly because its gone brittle... Anyway, there is a place in Adelaide that reskins wheels, they do OEM stuff for Holden etc. I had mine done by them a while back, they did an awesome job and I added some red stitching to modernise it a little, think it cost me $165, there is an article on Autospeed if you do a quick search.

Bolt-on spacers are illegal, I failed inspection here in SA with them...having said that, I thrashed through the hills heaps of times with them on and never ever had an issue, 25mm Hubcentrics...I read someone once suggest applying loc-tite to the threads for some added insurance but im sure you'd feel the wheel wobbling if by some stupid miracle one worked loose...cant see how though. Use them if you want to, nothing wrong with them, only hectik JDM heros will flame you coz you your wheels dont have 'gangsta' offset....p.s. Starcorp are a sh1tty wheel....done to death now.

I know youre sorted but we've had success with the big Snap-on lever bars...one guy each side with a lever going at it...need to be careful not to break the edges of the pulley off though...

Lol...what a muppet...how about before 'jumping to conclusions' you read the date of peoples posts?

Did they have a hand in the build of this car, no?...Probably a very general statement I made but im talking about your average backyard tinkerer from up that way...doing sh1t like screwing number plates straight into bumpers, terrible wheel choice and fitment, chopping holes in inner guards with what looks like an oxy torch, using PVC pipe fittings and tek screws...wheres the love!?

Thread mining!... Its the PFC Boost Control solenoid rattling, hard mounting it to the strut tower will do that...sigh...and I know because I have this car now...what a farkin junk box it was...lol...nothing some love couldnt fix...QLD guys cant mod a car for sh1t...butchers.