Ruff Ryda

PM'd about the brakes but no reply. Has everything been sold?

Hi guys, I know my post count ain't high (sorry it this appears as rude) but I have been on here for a while and placed my 2c in the forum here and there, so here we go: PARTS MAINLY SUITED FOR NISSAN S15, but some parts are universal or will fit Skylines too. To make it easier I have added a tag at the beginning of each line reading ALL, S15 or SR CA RB. Located in Southern Suburbs of SA. Pickup only at this stage. No low-ballers please but willing to consider reasonable offers besides firm prices that are set. Reason for sale is because I have since upgraded and no longer require the following parts: S14 / S15: 2nd hand Hybrid FMIC - RS Spec - $200 FIRM Great for decent power gains required on a budget without much pressure drop. Piping is damaged but will throw that in for free as I believe there may be missing pipes too (can only find 2 pieces since my last tune and tuners changed intercooler to a Blitz CS). Buyer must arrange piping for intercooler core. Core was previously damaged due to the preivous owner incorrectly installing it, however it has been addressed with a weld and Epoxy. Doesn't leak any boost whatsoever from the core and if you are concerned it does then Epoxy Multi-Metal will fix it fast from your local autostore for $10. S15: Unused Whiteline Subframe Bush set (Plus Polyurethane Type) - $150 ONO Stiffen up that chassis and minimise that horrible noise, harshness and vibration on your daily / track car! S14 / S15: Unused and Unpackaged K&N Panel Filter - $80 FIRM Throw away that Ryco filter and get some air flow form a proven filter to provide better throttle resonse and economy. JDM S15 Shifter Knob, Good Condition - $30 ONO ALL: Unused Nismo 1.3 Bar Radiator Cap - $50 FIRM Hold that pressure in for more effective cooling with less chance of boiling your coolant. S14 / S15: Clutch fork pivot ball from an Xtreme Clutch set - $30 ONO You will want this if you have an aftermarket kit and didn't install the upgraded clutch fort pivot ball to minimise the load that's placed on the standard one. S15: 2nd Hand Gearbox and Engine Mounts from an S15, OK Condition - Make an offer $. CA / RB: 8x NGK BCPR7ES to Suit Modified CA / RB Setups (will fit SR but not the preferred sparkplug) - $30 ONO In regards to contacting, please PM me and we can go from there. Cheers, Ben.

2 Farad capacitor sold. Oil cooler kit and oil catch-can is sold, pending payment.

FMIC now $275 ONO Bushes now $150 ONO 2 Farad Capacitor sold pending payment. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/354186-for-sale-thread/page__st__6600 - Post# 6616

2 Farad Capacitor sold, pending payment.

Hi guys, I know my post count ain't high (sorry it this appears as rude) but I have been on here for a while and placed my 2c in the forum here and there, so here we go: PARTS MAINLY SUITED FOR NISSAN S15, but some parts are universal or will fit Skylines too. To make it easier I have added a tag at the beginning of each line reading ALL, S15 or SR CA RB. Located in Southern Suburbs of SA. Pickup only at this stage. No low-ballers please but willing to consider reasonable offers. Reason for sale is because I have since upgraded and no longer require the following parts: S14 / S15: 2nd hand Hybrid FMIC - RS Spec - $300 ONO Great for decent power gains required on a budget without much pressure drop. Piping is damaged but will throw that in for free as I believe there may be missing pipes too (can only find 2 pieces since my last tune and tuners worked intercooler). Buyer must arrange piping for intercooler core. Core was previously damaged due to the preivous owner incorrectly installing it, however it has been addressed with a weld and Epoxy. Doesn't leak any boost whatsoever from the core. S15: Unused Oil cooler with rubber lines and Relocation Kit all done by Midnight Mods (comes with all fittings) - $400 ONO A must-have for heavy street use or track days for keeping your oil temps down! ALL: Unused Universal GReddy / Trust Catch Can/Tank - $120 ONO Don't let oil surging and blow-by damage your CA / RB / SR! S15: Unused Whiteline Subframe Bush set (Plus Polyurethane Type) - $175 ONO Stiffen up that chassis and minimise that horrible Noise, harshness and vibration on your daily / track car! ALL: Precision 2 Farad Capacitor for Car Audio - $80 ONO Let the cap hold charge and avoid power dips when pumping up your subwoofer and audio system. S14 / S15: Unused and Unpackaged K&N Panel Filter - $90 ONO Throw away that Ryco filter and get some air flow form a proven filter to provide better throttle resonse and economy. JDM S15 Shifter Knob, Good Condition - $30 ONO ALL: Unused Nismo 1.3 Bar Radiator Cap - $60 ONO Hold that pressure in for more effective cooling with less chance of boiling your coolant. S14 / S15: Clutch fork pivot ball from an Xtreme Clutch set - $30 ONO You will want this if you have an aftermarket kit and didn't install the upgraded clutch fort pivot ball to minimise the load that's placed on the standard one. S15: 2nd Hand Gearbox and Engine Mounts from an S15, OK Condition - $50 ONO CA / RB: 8x NGK BCPR7ES to Suit Modified CA / RB Setups (will fit SR but not the preferred sparkplug) - $30 ONO ALL: Used Toyo T1Rs in a tyre size and quantities of 2x 235/40/18 & 2x 225/40/18. Some down to markers, others with 1 mm of meat left. Evident Camber Wear (see photos). Good for burning or a hot lap. - Make an offer. In regards to contacting, please PM me and we can go from there. Cheers, Ben.

Lots of useful info when comparing ECUs, love it. Thanks for taking the time to do so.

Yeah just checked Google and NS. I can confirm I had fail searches! Thanks for the clear up. PFC Pro only has launch control. But I have some points I'd like to clear up too, perhaps STATUS can shed some light on this too: @ PaulR33 - Your stating that MAP won't produce better results as oppossed with a MAF. @ PaulR33, Rolls, GTSBoy - If a MAP sensor is based on a table with direct input then wouldn't you be able to tune it finer without having inaccuracies unlike the MAF? If MAP wasn't as good for performance then why is it incorporated with the the PFC D-Jetro (higher end) ECU package? Sorry if it's starting to sway off-topic, but I believe the nitty gritty bits of information is important before laying cash out for either a PFC or NIStune.

That's pretty nifty. Also interested to know what happens with NIStune chips in regards to exceeding redline and if there are load point adjustments...

By what I've read, the MAP sensor doesn't rely on air flow but it functions via air pressure which can lead to better response and power output once tuned correctly. D-Jetro also has launch control, fuel / ignition cut, anti-lag, NOS, etc which are some features you may or may not use. I was going to take this path, but I wasn't aiming for high power so based on my findings and having a NIStune setup, the NIStune is the best bang for buck. Hit up a few searches and this will also confirm what I've just typed. Power FC is 20 x 20 and NIStune is a 16 x 16 resolution so if it's a high RPM revving monster then PFC should be considered. I remember reading that NIStune is tuned cell by cell at 500 RPM intervals, think it was ns.com though so take that with a grain of salt.

In regards to...? BTW to correct my last post, Power FC D-Jetro has a lot more tuning capabilities so don't get me wrong. In terms of tuning it's a big deal but in terms of power difference then there wouldn't be a big difference between a NIStune and PFC. This is true but how well it's paid off? We'll see how the flames go.

PowerFC - IMO best to get the D-Jetro, otherwise NIStune hands down. D-Jetro uses a MAP sensor but takes longer to tune. Great to push a little more from your application in terms of tuning but not a big deal .PowerFC can be tuned every 400 RPM NIStune - Best bang for buck, streetable, knock sensor, limp-home mode and cheaper to tune whenever you make any mod changes. NIstune is tuned at every 500 RPM. Haltech ECUs can be tuned every 250 RPM but then you need to find a reputable Haltech tuner. For response, get the Precision 4828, based on the GT2860RS but billeted and cheaper. Otherwise you have the 5128 and 5130 to choose from (the miss-matched GT2871R or the efficient GT3071R replacement).They go on of course but so does the lag and cost.

On my SR20 I noticed a difference when going off / on the throttle but not much if any in terms of lag and hitting full boost. It's important to consider the application for that reason above IMO, but it's not really problem if the core is larger. A larger one will tolerate more PSI anyway so long as the piping diameter matches up efficiently to the core so you're not running 2.5" piping on a 600 x 300 x 150 core when it requires a 3" pipe setup.

You will get slightly more lag. I went from a Hybrid RS Spec cooler which was 600 x 300 x 96 (or something) with 3" piping to a Blitz CS 622 x 265 x 80 and 2.5" piping. In terms of RPM and hitting fool boost, not much, maybe only 100 RPM. However, on / off throttle response is amazing and noticably improved compared with the Hybrid. Haven't tried it in the summer yet though. If it's for the the spirited street / odd track day then don't go anymore than 90 for sure, even 80 would be fine if it's an efficient cooler like ARC, Blitz or the Jap likes. More information would be nice such as your intended use and budget.

That Radcam looks decent. I've got a Go Pro and that's killer though. Records in 1080p but to me it looks blurred and washed out compared to 720p. $250 from the states with all accessories for mounting, cables for TV and USB charger. Good for general sporting activities where you can't use a screen to line up a shot but usually you can guess where the shot will take a pic / footage.

I prefer it more on here, forum is way more relaxed and matured. The dyno which I mentioned as well was in the first episode. It would be good to see the dyno run and have the chart appear on the camera. I'm looking forward to seeing ep3.

Wow, much better feedback on here than in ns. Agreed with pretty much all posts here and as mentioned in ns, some in-car footage at the Stag cruise with actual Dynoruns recorded would be cool. Intro would be great to brief on the episode content (outline what the topic is for the episode). As for the bouncy act, that's nerves on the camera and the way she settles them. People can find different ways to help this but as long as it works but most importantly, it goes unseen then that's the best result you can get. Try different approaches and see what works for you .

Any good brands from the states you could recommend from ebay? I'm after a set of H1s and maybe HB4s too while taking advantage of our stronger dollar. Philips any good?

How big is exhaust? 3"? It's a natural occurrence when you get more flow because of less restriction. Truth is the only reason you could be burning more fuel is because the of the increased spike from the turbo by 1 or 2 PSI as it's reading more air thus adding more fuel (need to check AFRs). This would only be a problem when you already have nearly maxed out the injectors and the ECU has permanently set the option to allow more fuel which takes some time to adjust (say an hour or 2). I'm not saying this is your problem but it's a possibility that may fall in your category. If it's stock as you have indicated just then, it's not very likely (unless for some reason you have unusually small injectors or a faulty fuel pump that conicidently decided to play up). I would check all vac lines first as advised. If nothing just get it dyno'd and AFRs checked. AFM could even be kicking the bucket or an O2 sensor is playing up. Definitely invest in an EBC when you get funds for it, well worth it. Good luck.

What's your budget? Are you after value for money only or are you after suspension that actually works and competitors use?

+1 Listen to this guy. My boost leak was a split hose connected to the T piece that joins up to the stock boost gauge in my 15. Something so small can really mess up the fun experience of having a turbocharged car. However my symptoms was that it would still spool but car wouldn't pull and I was nearly reading 0 on the gauge. What other modifications have you got? Installations of aftermarkets parts including exhaust can spike the boost levels up. What boost controller you running and is it functioning correctly? I would recommend a decent EBC like GReddy Profec II Spec B However, failing the above, if your injectors were already close to full cycle then you're hitting full cycle when full boost hits. They reason why it's only started to do it is because the ECU being self managed has allowed the extra boost but now not enough fuel can actually be delivered assuming you have the stock ECU. Even if you have an aftermarket ECU I would recommend at least a fuel pressure regulator upgrade and a retune. The best course of action would be to get the mods you want done to it with a set of Tomei 555cc injectors or 740cc if you want to make big power on a stock engine and then take it to a reputable tuner. Stock, PowerFC or NIStune, your call.

On the Nistune site I couldn't see any R33 boards, only R32 and R34. A modded 300ZX ECU to suit the R33 could do it but I'm not totally sure. If your mate is good with his Nistunes then I can only say he's correct since the R33 Nistune isn't an option.

http://www.nistune.com/ and then look under Workshops. Found this one: MRC Dyno Services and Performance 26/44 Carrington Road, Castle Hill, NSW Contact Mark on (02) 9634 5399 mrcdyno [at] iinet.net.au http://www.mrcdyno.com.au A decent tune and Nistune chip will cost around $750 give or take roughly but call them and ask for confirmation.

Yeah take it in somewhere man, any performance shop should be able to help or even a mechanic. However the performance shop will offer to tune it as well while you're at it. If you've got a few mods may as well go for a Nistune . Otherwise just get a stock remap.

Didn't yours come with a keyring?? If not that's the whole purpose man. Get one and you have it straight infront of you from the ignition. The Varex sounds sweet fully opened, a little tinny when 1/2 closed but not awful. I LOVE it when it's fully opened but only when there is no cops or oldies to piss off. I got the cannon style one and it looks and sounds good. Saves your ass in RBTs too .