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If you want to contact me please call Craig on 0431856855 or email me at [email protected] Below is the link to my carsales ad. Please take the time to look at it or pass it on to anyone who might be interested. Price is neg. http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/private/details.aspx?R=12034946

Yeah i had Mark (Dr Detail) who i heard about on here come over and clean em up for me (and engine bay too) he did a great job and i saw how he was doing it (only didnt wanna do it myself the first time in case i stuff anything up) and its good but one headlight has a build up inside, im going to open it up soon and try clean it, then i was going to re seal it and sylicone it and any openings that dont look normal, and even if the condensation persists, atleast the yellow on the inside should be gone. My friend also did his lights recently with the $40 kit from autobarn and it looks great! But im hoping a nice firm wipe could remove the residue in my light this round. Anyone have any thoughts on the coilpack resistance also?

Yeah i was going to use a hair dryer on it? to dry up any water. At first i thought there was a hole letting moisture in but i was told (and then shown) theres meant to be a hole there anyways so im just going to dry it up, clean it and then hope thats all it will take. (and seal anything that looks a bit dodgy.

Hi all, im currently doing minor things with my car and im wondering what resistance is alright (higher or lower?) I tested my original 6 set (have a second hand set in atm until can get new packs) and readings vary 1.3-1.5 ohms but one reads 2.0. This has me curious about whether more is better or worse? My idea is to try combine the 6 best working coilpacks to try reduce the misfire as much as possible until i can get my hands on new ones. And one of my headlights gets condensation in it quite bad (the other does a little but not to the degree of it being a problem) and from this condensation there is a residue i wanna get rid of, i recently had my headlights polished and im wondering if i need special polish to do it or will car polish work i dunno, dont think i need to go to the degree of sandpaper but yeah, dont wanna stuff anything up. I've already removed the headlight and i know how to dissassemble so that not a problem. Thanks for any help.

Mine happens on and off, if it happens will be about 10 mins in similar to yours. Sometimes if i pull over and let the car sit engine off it wont come back. But sometimes it does. Normally letting the car cool down over a few hours will definately get rid of the fault. I just played around with coilpack wiring harness/plugs and didnt notice one faulty (althrough i couldnt get to coilpack 4 or 5) but after playing with all the plug and wires and restarting engine the lights where gone, but came back 10 mins later on a drive. When i got back i left engine running, played with plugs again, (at this point lights were still on) then restarted engine, to which only the TCS and SLIP lights came on (not engine light like normal) then immediately restarted engine again and no lights came on, and stayed off for 5 mins at idle. So i'm stumped, i think i just need to get new coilpacks (since they are needed even if it isnt the problem) and see if it goes away, if not then ill chase the other ideas.

Yeah thats how it goes Adrian. I heard that the combination did mean a firing problem. And its been true to all 3 r34s in my group so far (all have had the sequence and identical symptons, and in the two that were fixed, it was coilpacks.

In driving it to shops and back it didnt come up this time, which is good news that its not completely dead just yet, but now im stumped for ideas on trying to find the crappy (or crappiest) one of the lot if it doesn't fail again. Just wondering if there is anything i can do to see if one is likely to fail (while its still working) or a way to make it make (like heat it or something) any ideas?

The combination of the lights i think that indicates an ignition problem? The problem slowed once i replaced my old bad ones with these 2nd hand ones but now seems to be permanent. At first the engine light comes on, followed about a second later by the slip and traction control lights. I'm told thats the combination usually meaning coilpacks, and that coilpacks are a very likely problem in our cars.

And i know ive already topiced about it, but coilpacks are going!. I'm already saving up for replacements but today the warning lights came on and havent left like they normally do! And i just need the car for about a week until i have the money for new ones. I have a 2nd hand set from my mates car (60000k) in now, and my old set (150000k) in my garage, im wondering if there is a way to locate the one that seems to have died without trial and error? I could educated guess it as 6th cylinder (from front) or 4 or 5 as they are gonna be the hottest right? But my friend said (not sure how true this is) that you could test each one using a voltmeter and testing the voltage through each one. Another thing i thought of was perhaps unplugging each one individually while the car is running, and which ever one DOESN'T change how the car runs is the dead one! But i dont know if this is going to damage anything since plugging and unplugging things while connected to battery never agrees with me! What are peoples thoughts and ideas? I really need the car as its my daily and i will have the problem sorted asap. Just dont wanna drive around with a dropped cylinder/misfire all the time.

Alright thanks for that info. I'll just keep an eye on it and if the light comes on ill make a move from there. I bought the car only a few months ago with high kms so im keeping my eye on anything and everything and keep on top of it all. (Hence my concern)

I'm having a similar problem, my car has 150,000 and each day the car is running less pressure (went from 3.5 to 2 to 1.5 and this morning i noticed it on 1) I'm pretty concerned about something damaging like oil pump especially since the high km's. I read above that its probably the gauge but will the gauge still read okay only lower? When i boost it moves up to 4 on the gauge but on idle or cruise it will drop again.

That sounds great thanks! Yeah I've read into this abit and its the UV coating that comes off and makes it yellow again, this UV Protectant just needs to be re-applied. AutoBarn (if they are in Melbourne) sell kits for $40 that include required sheets of sand paper (i think like 1200-2000 grit) and polish with cloth and the protectant. I was going to go with that myself but I don't wanna risk ruining the zenons for a small price of someone professional doing it.

Yeah I'm up for giving that a go but my mate said he'll do it n when i looked at the headlights, i swear some of the yellow is on the inside. Also it gets some moisture in there so i figure getting it opened, cleaned properly n put back together properly is a good idea.

Hi all. Got a 34gtt with yellow headlights. I read that a couple yrs ago there was a guy on here in seven hills sydney (im from there too) who would do it for $150 a set inside n out and thats what i need done. I've considered doing it myself but im worried about ruining the zenons and causing myself problems so id just like to get someone else to do it. If anyone knows this person or someone (prefferably local to sydney/western sydney) that would be great. Thanks.

Thanks for the replies. It looks like 11psi is the go. I'm not overly concerned for damage at this stage as it will be of infrequent use (whenever i need to feel like ive got more power than i do) or whenever i see hot girls if im feeling like a douche (just kidding with that one) but yeah my mate talks about running 13-14 with stock parts should be okay and that he has that all the time just uses accelerator to control how hard he goes (and by going soft, runnig high boost is fine) but yeah i wanna play it safe and just use the flick of a switch. If you guys think of anything else i should know let me know