ido09s

Yeah, the PWR one wont be cheap and there probably is other rads out there that would be comparable for less $$$$

VE isnt worked out at below the curve, its worked out on full song. Its obvious that off boost you will still have for example an RB26, but once on boost the amount of air it swallows becomes massive and this is obviously where the comparison is made You will have to let us know how the conversion goes then.... there is no better 'anyday' than today

A full respray should cost more than that alone. I am pretty fussy but i would baulk at a full paint job and repairs for $4k. Myself i would be expecting closer to $10k for a quality job. But thats just me, i dont like decent work, i like it to be top quality If Peter at Bodyform uses them they must be decent, though i thought Peter did all the work himself usually? Or does he just use these guys for paint?

Or try PWR. I have used them with some success.

I was going to comment on VE but had no idea on what the accepted increase was so left it well alone. Good to see my car is the equivalent of about a 7 litre engine lol

We had several issues with the neck sealing in the top tank. We ended up removing them from the car and had the neck welded up to stop it leaking. As said above, they are a cheap get you out trouble type radiator. Why are you replacing your current one?

Ignitor? Are all the pins in the wiring harness in good condition and pushed in correctly. Given its only cylinder 1 i would think it would be something in the wiring

It would be like sending your GTR to the local corner workshop for work. Unless they know what they are doing they will get it wrong time and time again.

Sounds like the guy canes his cars to death and has a dodgy workshop working on the car to begin with. My old 12A turbo R100 when i bough it was not set up right. It had no oil cooler, no surge tank, it was never properly tuned. It was my first turbo car and i went through 2 engines with it in the space of about 12 months. I sent it to RX Engineering and told Jon to fix it. Came back and i raced it, drove it daily to work, pretty mich thrashed crap out of it. Sold it to a guy who ripped helis in it day in day out until he decied he wanted a ported turbo. The motor never died, the diff didnt die, the only thing that did happen was the box jam in 3rd, typical 121 5 speed. They are reloable when set up and tuned properly. Am i Mazda fan, hard to tell i am not. It just kinda gets to me when people say they are unreliable.....

Leon does the work for CRD and many other workshops in Sydney. If you got it from CRD its even stranger that they dont have the diff..... I would have thought they of all people would understand its easier to supply the diff. Its all good. Always glad to pass the information i have picked up over the years Thats the joy of Loctite Ultra Grey, i am yet to see any of it come lose from the inside of the engine and i have stripped down some engines several years after they were originally put together. They were race cars which were stripped and checked every couple of years

Thats a Performance Metalcraft sump Had you said that from the beginning i would have said you havent got a worry with him, Leon is a champion and does some of the best work i have ever seen. Shame he didnt have the diff though FYI re the gasket goo, thats what NIssan specify when bolting the sump to the block. Use heaps of it, dont be shy. You should see sealant ooze out the side all around the sump. Thats when you know its gpoing to seal properly. I use to use about 3/4 of a tube of the stuff on every sump i bolted up lol I find the best way to clean it is razor blades. Hold them 90 degrees to the sump and scrape away. You will go through a few blades but it wirks really well on every surface you will need to clean on an RB26. A small screw driver works well at scraping out the sealant in the dents on the sealing surface. When all thats done, go to town on it with a wire brush. Do yourself a favour though, grey selaer looks so much better than the red sealant they supply with the gasket kit. Use the Loctite Ultra Grey on everything. Sump, water pump, rocker cover gaskets (cam cap corners, half moons etc)

I wasnt the one who told him to buy a Mazda, Rolls was, i just agreed with him. I dont recall ever saying to put a 13B20B in a Skyline.....

Its a lot longer than some RB oil pumps last lol Like i said, they are a small engine and you cant expect something that performs as they do to go for ever. Please enlighten me to the variety of purposes you were referring to then.... and to quote yourself.... And good to see the maturity of SAU shine through yet again. Its quite comparible with NS.com at times i see.....

At a cost of?.... Quite a lot i should imagine for the entire build from its inception to an engineered registered car. I cant see the video but given the OP is asking about a street car, with power on a budget, i can only assume this turboed VH41 R32 is registered and engineered and cost <$5k to build? Its different but given the cost versus gain i dare say a modified RB26 would have given similar performance. Apart from high klms, there should again be no issues with an older rotor. I have seen them with 120,000klms on them still going well. Sure it wasnt perfect, but we are talking about a tiny engine pushing about an FD for all those klms. Any small engine will be strugling after some time on the road Your clearly on the wrong forum lol If you want to tow something i wouldnt be buying anything LS powered anyway.... a big ass 4WD is about all i would tow anything decent with these days.

Mate contact Beer Baron. Hes been trying to sell an engine for almost a year which would suit your needs. I have dealt with Richard and he is pretty trusting i guess lolol Its a complete N1 engine and the block alone is worth about $3500 by itself.... motor was built by a Jap workshop so it should be alright.

Are you in Sydney? Name the place mate, wont hurt as what he is doing is pretty normal for fab shops and we can all tell you if the shop does a decent job. A deposit, as has already been said, just ensures you actually take your sump back. Personally i would be asking a bit more for a despoit as they would be worth more than $300 on the second hand market.... I would get your sump done. The diff does need to be set up again and all the prelaods etc done when you swap the sump over. It would be much easier to get yours done. Does this place not have the diff supplied with the exchange sump?

How ill informed you are.... Who ever tells you that they break seals blah blah blah has obviously cut corners or never owned one. I have had numerous rotor's and only those that werent set up properly had issues. Mate has a car that gets its ass flogged every time it gets taken out and it has been around for years!!!! Makes 450rwhp though 3 mufflers so its no slouch either. Its so quiet it would just about pass an EPA inspection and it still makes the power so even the old stories of them needing to be noisy is all shit, you just have to build them properly. They would honestly cost no more to maintain than any modified Skyline If i can get a 13BT supplied and rebuilt for $6k i am doing pretty well and your all shopping at the wrong workshops. This includes an imported 13BT which has been stripped and inspected - if the engine is crap it gets replaced till good parts are found, PTS seals, bridgeporting, the rest of the seals consist of a full Mazda seal kit. I obviously have the rest of the anciliaries off the import motor to use so no need to buy much more than a new clutch, turbo and manifold should i wish to upgrade them. As i said in a previous post, i know a guy who has built a 9 second Mazda for no more than $25k. Thats cost of the car, decent paint, nosecone change from an 808 front, full ANDRA tech cage, 9 inch, top loader blah blah blah

You want power on a budget then a Mazda is where its at. My old 13BT R100 ran a 12.4 at 107 on Simex street tyres. My favourite pic of the car had the front wheel 3 inches off the ground on launch. The car was only running 10psi and its best power figure i saw was 198hp atw's. Cant ask for much better performance on a budget than that. The whole car owed me about $25k back then and it was an immaculate car with leatgher interior, Autometer dash, Simmons etc Was nice enough to make a few magazines back in the day A mate of mine has an 808 race car that runs 9.90's for about $25k fully teched and ready to race

If its for a single turbo setup just go into Earls and get it all from them. They will have everything you need to make up oil and water lines. The only thing you will have to fabricate will be the oil return line in the block.

What would you say if my T78 RB26 was on full boost (24psi) by about 4000rpm and makes 460rwkw on 98. The car runs 135mph so its making decent power. Thats about 500rpm more than a stock RB26.... or is your idea of response full boost at 3000rpm

How does anyone tune a Pro Turbo car when they run 50psi+. Takes a fair bit of knowledge and some skill to do it right the first time, but its done on a daily basis now so its not impossible There would obviously be limitations to the stock bolt ons, but lets assume they have been changed to cope i am sure the engine would last longer than most would expect.

Maybe to some people but honestly not for me. I am happy with my RB26 and i would have never considered an LS1 when doing my engine swap. If they were that good Reece McGregor would have ditched trhe RB26 and put a V8 into his GTR but something tells me the mid 7 he runs with his RB is more than adequate With a good tune i think you may be surprised. The exhaust wheel would probably give up before the engine i reckon

Your not using the right mechanic then

Why would i be jealous.... your kidding yourself if you think i am mate lol

I would pick up the phone and go from there. Unfortunately its all to easy for people to fire of emails with no real intention of doing anything about. if you spend the time to call a workshop they will take you a little more seriously. As for the 4WD thing.... i always pulled the shaft when dynoing a car. Its not worth the risk. Could you imagine ringing a customer to tell them that their car engaged the front wheels at the top of a run and has either launched off the dyno and damaged the car or wrecked the driveline.... all because you were to lazy to spend 20 minutes pulling a drive shaft out. Its always better to be safe than sorry in business.