ido09s

Thats what i was thinking Charlie because it turned left so hard

really, which ones?

Was a big hit and a shame to see it happen Was it just wrong place at the wrong time or did it break something? It turned very violently

I would be interested to know how well the Link works with the sensor as i have a G4 fitted to the S14

It is as easy as they say Send your sump to Leon at Performance Metalcraft. He converted my RB26 sump to 2WD and he also modified it so hold more oil and added baffle plates. He does the sumps for Hi-Octane so by going to him your cutting out the middle man Take your harnesses and send them off to Sideshows Performance Wiring. Jim will do the cutting and shutting for you and send it back to you ready to plug in and fire up Otherwise its pretty straight forward. If i can convert our S14 to RB26 using nothing but Nissan components you will have problems converting yours. And i would scrap the RB20, it will never compare to the RB26

Go Pro HD for sure. $400ish and it comes with a suction cup mount that will stick to just about anything. Its got a waterproof case as well so it can be used absolutely anywhere

I recently purchased an RX3 and Shannons asked me what the purchase price was and they were happy to insure the vehicle for the purchase price. If i wanted it insured for more it was going to have to be inspected and the price agreeb upon I would be very careful doing it today. I have heard stories of insurers investigating what was noted at the RTA and if there is a difference the insurance has been wiped

got a mate that runs 125mph with an R32 GTR and it makes 300rwkw on UniGroups dyno so your 400kw is way off the mark. His car is also a complete street car with NOTHING stripped from the interior at all and races on Bob Jane All Rounders. If its making 400 it should probably be capable of a low 10? Post up your dyno sheet if you can

They would be about the same as a GTR with similar mods. And to be honest probably better in situations where each car has been extensively modified.

how did you go with a set of covers?

are you sure its not just condensation?

dont even bother with a bost controller as the standard ECU has a boost cut built in. From memory its about 11 psi. So those saying that they are running 13psi on a stock ecu have either not got a stock ecu, or are not running 13psi. Give it a go, but be prepared to eat the steering wheel when it cuts in as it is quite a bit more violent than the rev limiter As has been said, an exhaust is a far better option. It will raise the boost slightly but i have only seen a small handful of R33's that hit boost cut with an exhaust

if you get under the dash there is an adjustable pin in the pedal sounds like you need to bleed the master. Given that it was fine before you put this clutch in try bleeding the master before making any other adjustments. If that fails come back to this thread

unlikely. The noise is normally more noticable when its cold due to expansion when it gets hot. As for broken studs, its unlikely on a GTR. GTSt's do it as the manifold is one piece and they warp causing the studs to snap. Given GTR's have 2 manifolds its a lot less common. BUT, the studs on GTR turbo's do loosen themselves off and cause the turbo to come loose on the manifold. If one is loose you will be able to move it around with a little help from a prybar. But obviosuly be careful what you lever off. We had this problem a while ago at work and i cant for the life of me remember what caused it.....

If you used the standard Nissan throw out bearing it is the wrong one. It needs to be a smaller diameter bearing that should have been supplied in the kit. From memory this shouldnt really stop it from operating though.... are you sure it bled properly? because unless you have a decent pedal its quite possible there is still air in the system. You may also need to bleed the master cylinder. Quite often people do not use a clamp on the hose and they let the fluid in the master drain out. If you did let it empty try bleeding the master cylinder. Have you adjusted the clutch at the pedal? Did you buy the same diameter slave cylinder?

whats this pad knock off that you are referring to?

that R33 looks pretty sorted. Whos is it Giant?

what condition are the cover sets in? I want a set that has no dents or chunks out of them for a second set. Not interested in paint at all as they will be bead blasted and painted anyway How far away are they? Have they landed yet?

Mark Skaife holds the V8 Touring car EC lap record with a 1 31.701..... thats slicked up, these guys are running treaded tyres Can someone at the track confirm the Sierra Sierra EVO motor is hanging out of it? I am interested to know if the rumour floating round is true lol No it didnt blow, they are getting serious and putting the 800hp motor in

word from a mate at the track confirms the 1.31, with the Cusco car only 3 tenths slower. Dont know about changing the motor though..... any word on how Mark Berry is doing?

I fail to see how people can call rotor's unreliable and then compare them with a GTR lol As i have said previously, i have seen more broken oil pumps and spun bearings on RB26's than i have broken apex seals Messiah - what sort of mods did you compare on both cars? and what was your desired result you were hoping for? hp figure? 1/4 mile et? I wouldnt say that the risk is any higher on a rotor than an RB26. A mate fo mine owns BLOJOE and he absolutely rapes that engine every time he takes it out. Lino and the guys at Maztech have seen the way Joe drives and are absolutely astounded that the engine is still alive! I guess it all comes down to maintenance

not entirely true bozodos. You only need to premix your fuel if you have taken the oil metering pump off the engine. And any rotary is no different to a GTR with regards to servicing. Change the oil and filter at regularly intervals. When you change the plugs use a quality plug and you will be right. I dont even warm up my rotor, nor the RB26 that sits next to it in the garage. We simply drive both cars sensibly till they are at temp and drive them appropriately before we switch them off. A lot of people will argue that seals are an issue on rotaries..... sure they may well be, but the number of engines i pulled down when i worked at Advan that had spun bearings puts RB26's well on par with the rotary engine when it comes to failures

I am not a chemist so i cant really go into details, but apparently Ethanol is not a great winter fuel and therefore Caltex will be following worldwide practice by making the winter mix contain more PULP, hence the 70% (winter)-85% (summer) ethanol mix. I know for a fact that if i run our E85 i will be having 2 tunes, summer and winter. If i were you i think i would be more concerned at the fact your supplier hasnt given you this information. I guess we all need to see how E85 reacts in winter and go from there.

was going to say there are hints everywhere