ido09s

Just do the cam cap studs. I did, I just felt it was a bit of insurance and a small cost given what the rest of the engine was worth Crower are very quick to respond to emails so shoot them off an email about the other stuff. I am sure they will answer in no time at all and give you an answer that will be 100% reliable

Certainly is a 2.6. Stock crank that we used to Rev to 9500rpm. We've pulled it back to 8800 now Pretty sure its a 1.0 that I got and it's a T4 flange

fark me, 49psi!!!!! what fuel? I am hoping to make 550rwkw at 30 odd psi with a 6766. I currently make 485rwkw at 23psi and the car runs 138mph all day long which is the true dyno

All dynos are different mate, even wheels/tyres will make a decent difference. I don't think its too far off the mark though. Our car makes 485rwkw at 23psi and runs 138mph. Unigroup is known to have a bit of a tough dyno though. Its still decent mph that your car runs. I wouldn't be too concerned about it. Get the box done and race it

Have you had a chance to race this yet? keen to hear what mph it runs

So many posts to go through and not enough time So what are people making nowadays with a 6766, 1.0 split rear on E85 on a stock stroke RB26? My girlfriend seems to think her car is a bit of a nugget and I want to prove her wrong. It runs 138mph in full street trim and makes 485rwkw at 23psi on the Unigoup dyno which is a pretty tough dyno from my experience

Mate of mine recently got lucky in NSW with his defect. I contacted the RMS about a dfect of 7 years old as he has lost the paper work and wasn't sure what he should do. Was told you need to fill in a document and hand it in with a blue slip and its all gone, UNLESS its an EPA defect. Contacted the EPA and it had a defect from them. The guy I spoke to though said given the age of the defect and the fact it was going to need a blue slip for rego he would remove the defect from the system. He hasn't tried registering the car yet as I need to get it going again after sitting for close to 7 years, but time will tell.

got any plans to race it?

I have a 1.0 on a 6766 that's bolted to a 2.6 and its fine. E85, 272/264 9.1mm cams and a decent amount of head work and I don't think its laggy at all. I would see full boost (currently 23psi) no later than 4500rpm

it will, but the end result won't be greatly different. The power figures will be vest similar

power shouldn't really change all that much between gears, torque is the only thing that will change when using 4th over 5th

not yet mate I have pulled it apart though and I am hoping it may only be the throttle bodies. Looking at them with a torch behind them they are a bit dirty and have a few decent gaps. I cleaned one pair up and they look vastly different, little to no light coming through them, so I am going to put it all back together with cleaned out throttle bodies and hope for the best

no we didnt run it again but i am pretty sure the boost wouldnt have changed as there is no leak to atmosphere. There is nowhere the boost can be leaking to as the inlet side is as air tight as its going to get

Apologies if my comment came across a bit strongly, it was never my intention to upset you Its just fuel systems like this introduce so many areas for problems, and it really doesnt need to be this way. My own car makes 485rwkw on E85 and has the basic system i describe above. Its over engineered like the rest of the car and i dare say will cop the 550+ we are about to throw at it without running out of fuel. I dont however run the staged pumps nor have them controlled through the Link ECU i use. I just let it all run constantly. The fuel gets warm but i am yet to install the GReddy oil cooler i plan on using as a fuel cooler. I really should get onto it though. 8 years now on E85, 3 x 044's and not an issue. I dont see what the problem is? Awesome!!!! Always scares me when i see no grommets!!!! You would be surprised how many people dont use them!!!!

not yet, only performed the smoke test, pressure test and checked it for external leaks with break clean. I started this thread more so in case someone had had something similar happen before that had a weird fix to the problem.

it was stinking hot when the initial tests were done. We checked before and after that it still idled high and it was so the leak was there. It was still strapped to the dyno while we did it and it all tested ok which is why I am lost. Short of pulling the inlet off the damn thing I really don't know where to look I guess that's just what I am going to have to do.

the guys thought that there was a chance that the AAC area could have generated a leak as part of that would need to be open to atmosphere or the AAC wouldn't work, BUT the actual AAC valve is gone and blanked off so wasn't sure if there was something else in the tank it bolts to that could be causing it? Would a bent throttle plate show up when you pressure test the inlet system? it held really good pressure as well when it was tested The PCV valve was removed and plugged up with a grub screw. Straight to a catch can from the rocker covers its only when it gets hot as well which would indicate something is expanding and causing the leak. I let it idle for a good 10 minutes yesterday and it wouldn't idle high. Took it around the block and got some decent heat into it and up went the idle so whatever it is its going to be a bitch to find as I don't think its going to be very obvious

that's about the only thing I think I can be. Or its blown out the seal around the throttle plate, which was probably non existent anyway given the age of the engine There is nothing within the inlet manifold it could be is there?

its idled fine for years. Starts fine on cold start up with large cams and E85, its never been an issue. Its the misfire on the dyno that has done something and its definitely an internal vacuum leak it seems as nothing I do externally fixes the issue. I had no idea you could even have an internal vacuum leak!!!! One thing I will do is get a bore scope and check the throttle butterflies, I highly doubt one would be bent but stranger things have happened

why the hell do people install fuel systems like this? could be so much simpler and just as effective, not to mention cheaper as well to setup How much power does the car make? and why does it need such an elaborate fuel system? I am assuming the person who built the fuel cell hasn't baffled it nor built into it any way of being able to install an intank fuel pump If I were you, piss it all off and start again. I am sure its not what you want to hear but that's what I would do. Simple is ALWAYS better!!!! Put one 044 in the tank at most. It shouldn't need that but if its there and you know how old it is use it. I would put the filter between the tank and the surge for simplicity sakes. Leave your surge tank and the 2 044's and let them feed the fuel rail directly. If you want the fuel cooler leave it and plumb it into the return line from the engine to the surge but remove the contact with the oil cooler hoses as that will definitely be transferring heat to the fuel lines. As mentioned above if its still a concern have one 044 switched through the ECU and come on at a selected boost/tps/rpm setting. Your car will also be lighter and your pocket would have had more cash in it Ultimately though, if you think your scavenge pump is picking up air from the fuel tank it can only mean one thing, the fuel tank isn't baffled properly and needs to be done again. Also GROMMETS!!!!!! I can see braided fuel line going straight through holes in the spare wheel well. I don't care if its stainless braid, they need to have grommets to protect them!!!!!!

all it was was a boost controller and a tune. The engine has been in the car for 8 years or more and its always idled fine off the throttle stop screw. Something happened at the top of the last dyno run and now it idles at 1500/1600rpm Ah yes, sorry, its a 26 with stock inlet side. Its got a Link G4 in it so map sensored and it runs perfectly still once off idle By spray them down i mean all over the outside of the inlet. You spray it with brake clean, which i did on the weekend, and if there is a leak you will notice a change in the idle. Sorry to day there was no change to the idle so somehow its an internal vacuum leak which i had no idea could actually happen. GH05T, motors been in there for years. I am totally aware of the seals on the butterflies but its long gone.

had the same issue with a few track cars we built when i was at Advan. They sent oil into the catch can like a mofo I think in the end Pete found some Jap rings that worked and did a better job but still didnt fix it. I will only ever use Jap stuff. Trust (OS Giken) pistons, Trust rings with a set of Trust rods (Carillos) and 9 years later its still going strong. The engine barely breathes at all thankfully. All i ever get is dirty condensation in the can. I know its not a drifter, but for drag racing i havent had an issue with 25psi in it. Gonna have a bit more soon so time will tell

Morning all Need some ideas on where to start..... Had the car on the dyno last night for some further tune work and all was going alright until the car had a small misfire at about 25psi and 8000rpm. All is fine, the car still runs fine and hasn't had a terminal issue, but it now idles at close to 1600rpm. First things first, a smoke and pressure test was done on in the intake, no problems. No leaks, holds pressure. Sprayed down all the throttle bodies, though I have since found out it was with water not brake clean, and no change to the idle. Though I will try with brake clean as I believe this would be more effective. There is no AAC valve on the intake, its plated off, though I am suspect it may have developed a leak between the 2 sides under the plenum causing the issues. Ata bit of a loss at the moment as to what it could possibly be as the leak appears to be somewhere inside the intake. I am all ears and I need some ideas on where to start as I really don't want to take the inlet off the damn thing!!!!

must be a pretty low reading dyno if they run 135mph with that power. I make 485rwkw on what is supposed to be a tough dyno and run 138mph all day. Mind you it is an RB26 S14 that weighs in at about 1450kgs Slicks will be your best friend that's for sure. Probably a high ten I dare say if it all falls into place

I have done this mod to several track cars I used to work on and feedback was that it worked extremely well. Something to be aware of though is that for a street car this wouldn't work all that well as it does leave the transfer case prelaoded at all times. You need to get under the car and adjust it as well, though adjustment is very easy given its just a bolt and locking nut.