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ido09s

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Everything posted by ido09s

  1. since when did the trimatic come out in 4 speed....... all VL Commo's were 4 speed autos As for the conversion.... its easy as dude. There are a few people here that have replied with facts, but some are just way off track. Traction in a 2 wheel drive RB26 powered car is fine if the suspension/wheel package is thought about accordingly. Understeer is not really an issue either as most will think. Weight wise the SR20 wieghs 140 od kgs with all accessories and the RB ads about another 120kgs to the entire car, lots of which is the gearbox which reduces the talk of underteer to just a rumour...... Speak with a workshop that has done it if your not certain on what to believe in this thread as they will be able to give you 100% facts. Call Dean at UpImports, he is also on here as VSPECV, he has done quite a few of these conversions
  2. Have not been used since being serviced. open to offers
  3. I have a spare set of 6 cleaned GTR injectors. They have been cleaned and tested by SAS in Sydney. Ready to go, will COD at buyers expense. Asking $400 for the 6 of them. Brad
  4. As Blitz has already said try Unique Autosports in Castle Hill... you may very well be surprised what they will trade in and the 33 they have is gorgeous :D
  5. It's the sender/control unit that controls memory, peak hold, warning light etc for the turbo gauge (boost gauge). All the Greddy gauges with peak hold etc have them.
  6. Hey guys, got a friend thats in need of some AFM plugs from a GTR. Leave a reply here or e-mail ido09s@froggy.com.au if you have any Brad
  7. likewise, although your not interested in a working ECU i have one for $150. Its perfectly operational
  8. this is a little hypocritcal isnt it..... you are worried about radial tyres not being safe, yet you are then saying that you can race an un-engineered car in this class........ it is after all called a "street class" is it not, and in order to race i feel major mods should be engineered. I am a member of AusRotary and this info has been passed on by one of their members. I feel if it is going to be a "true" street class then the current RTA laws should be used as a guide and modified from there to keep the class safe. Minor things like ATMO BOV's and after market ECU's would be fine, but un-engineered engine converions and race fuel would obviously be banned. To exclude the Nitto 55R and BFG Drag Radial would, in my eyes, be doing the class an injustice. Tyres like this are a huge success both here and overseas and i think we should try and look at including them in this class. regardless of this.... Tyres should be of a radial type and be factory grooved, cross plys not allowed. Fuel should be limited to PULP with the addition of readily available octane boosters being ok. ie Nulon or Wynns etc. "H" pattern gearboxes to be retained with no sequential or non dowshiftable boxes allowed... We arent after a super competitive sport but one that lends itself to the beginner of drag racing, one that anybody could join and work their way up through. The current street meets are good but something a little more competitive would be awesome. We also need to keep the rules simple. Call me dumb i dont care, but after having a flick through the ANDRA rule book it baffled **** out of me... one page that broke out into another 20 just for one class. If the rules are going to be like this i think it will turn a lot of beginners away. Brett - not everyone has budgets such as your or Andrea's, but what they do have is the want to drag race at a competitive level... thats why its called a street class
  9. Most has already been said but: -interiors, including orignal dash and heater controls, to be in place and operational. Sard Stack, microtech dash's ok as long as they are housed in the factory position -must have 2 front seats of some kind mounted in the standard position -glass windows, no lexan or perspex. -at least the drivers window must be operational -"H" pattern gearbox, no sequentially shifted boxes or non downshifting boxes -no traction control devices unless fitted from the factory -after market engine management ok -pump fuel (Ultimate, optimax etc) octane boosters ok -no N2O -no wheel arch mods, guard lipping ok at most -radial tyres regardless of Aussie DOT approval ie Nitto 555R, BFG Drag radials but must be treaded -standard suspension and mounting points to be retained. Tramp rods or drift "pineapples" ok -atmo BOV's and pod filters ok -must have rego in a state of Australia -engine transplants to be engineered and RTA approved (car then fits in with donor cars class) -radial tyres only, no cross plys -exhaust is to exit the car after the diff -engine size dictates tyre width ie 275/35/18 rather than a 26x8 as a street tyre is not measured in inches as such I have pretty much dragged everything people have said that i think dictates a "street car" and put them in this list. Sure there are some things that arent 100% street legal, but we need to have some leniency. The rules will need to clear and easy to understand. I for one have never had anything to do with drag racing other than street meets and would benefit greatly from clear concise, basic rules i guess for the want of a word. Some people are baffled by the street meet rules currently in place so i am sure it wold help the class.
  10. something we all need to remember is that this class isnt just for imports... any car, V8, 4, 6 rotor. I think bestto go by the RTA rule book and if it can pass a road side RTA inspection it should be deemed good to race in street class. Engine sizes i think should be restricted by tyre/wheel sizes which would then allow engine transplants AS LONG AS THEY ARE ENGINEERED AND RTA LEGAL. Some of you also should jusmp on AusRotary as we need to all put forward or views as this affects all of us..... Here is the AusRotary link for people that may be interested in what their ideas are.... http://ausrotary.dntinternet.com/forums/vi...der=asc&start=0
  11. that dyno graph is pure gold :) but its exactly the sort of power curve an alarming number of people like seeing these days..... and its a shame, cause it would be a much nicer car if the power came on much much earlier. Peak power means nothing really, its just a way of saying my dicks bigger than yours..... if you want the perect street car its gotta have LOADS of power from about 3000rpm and up :)
  12. and that people is why dyno queens mean nothing to most of us it aint nothing without that chunk of meat under the curve is anyone here able to tell us how much traction both of these cars had??? could it be possible FLYBYE lost due to having none??
  13. shifter??? you wouldnt have one your willing to part with would you....
  14. Hey all, I am in need of an RB25 gearbox shifter. Dont mind if it is new, second hand, short shifter or normal shifter as it is needed quite quickly to finish a job. Prefer Sydney buyer but interstate will be fine as long they can COD. PM here or e-mail ido09s@froggy.com.au Brad
  15. does anyone wanna offer me something for UR2SLO...... :)
  16. Damn fine pics here guys :) Merli, what camera is it that you use again?? and did it cost you an arm and leg to buy??? Adrian - what size rims do you have the 275's mounted on?? i wanted some Nitto's for the 200SX but cant find any 8.5/9" rims to fit them on at a decent price.... I know the above rim is probably the best width but if they will fit on a smaller rim it would make it easier i guess......
  17. its not loose yet mate but its so close it aint funny.... it will all depend on whether we have an engineers report handed into the RTA as well for the mods, so we will just have to see what happens....
  18. we may have the 200 back Nick so i will give you a call if we do I am sure Andrea will be up for a cruise
  19. Its the same bar as this is it not.....
  20. Hey T I havent forgotten the rubber mould and the dash, just been busy getting the 200 finished.... will definitely be by to see you shortly though You dont by any chance still have the high pressure power steering hose do you???
  21. How many peple here are interested from Sydney.... Could you please PM me as i currently have 3 people interested in getting the Nemesis fitted in the next month or so. The more we get the better off we are. PLEASE DO NOT PM ME IF YOU ARE NOT 100% IN THE MARKET FOR AN ALARM as it will make it hard to organise.... I spoke with Nick this morning and due to the sales that are currently happening on their alarms the Nemesis will either cost you $990 with 2 free options (explained below) or you will receive a 12.5% discount with standard Nemesis features making it $865 fitted. Options i was told about are a lift sensor and a 2 x window closer. Those with Skylines will need a motor placed in the drivers door and this will count as one of your free options. Those with other models of cars will get the window closer and lift sensor should you choose to pay $990 for the alarm. will give it a week or so and see how we go response wise. Brad PS - for fitment i will probably organise for the installers to be at Advan Performance in Silverwater for ths installation as they have a rather large car park and lots of space to work in. This is obviously open to other suggestions
  22. Hey all, I understand they are getting thin on the ground here in Oz but i was hoping to find some to fit some standard 16" 200SX rims....... can anyone help???? Brad
  23. It was pinched from the complex Tony, Mark is an employee of Advan and he has been known to leave it in the staff car park over night. It just so happened that last night he left it down stairs and it went missing
  24. RON - it isnt my car so no idea about insurance..... its actually one of Advan's mechanics cars..... in this case i dont think there will be a payout as i am sure the property owner would have terms and conditions which protected the owner against being sued in cases like this :( Lets just hope they find it in one piece..... However, if you are leaving your car with a mechanic for work to be carried out you would hope that the workshops insurnace would cover you.....
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