ido09s

It has been a little while since I have done a clutch on both cars but I am 95% sure they use the exact same bellhousing bolts

Thanks guys. the price is going to rule it out. The car has run 11.0 and 138mph and we don't want to cage it or put a chute on it as its a street car so the price is just too much for what I wanted it for. Which is only a handful of passes probably. I knew it wasn't going to be cheap but I wasn't expecting $5k or so for a box then convertor and accessories I think I am just going to have to put some slicks on it and see how it goes to the 60 foot markers

A bit of a thread bump but are there any recommendations for a 2WD car that will cope with about 600rwkw? been toying with the idea of putting an auto in the S14 (its RB26) and have no idea what the best option is. I am sure TH400 and a glide will cope once built but what is the better option performance wise?

its got an RB26 in it stealthfoz. Everyone seems to think having a manual box and ET Streets is a big reason for not getting the et down but there are plenty of people who can do it so don't know why this car wont. I would love to have Royce's 60 foot time

I have an S14 that makes 485rwkw on Unigroups dyno and I run consistant 138mph. Shame it only runs 1.9 60 footers..... running low 11's @ 138 sucks big time!!!!! Just goes to show how confusing/inaccurate dynos can be

don't buy something in an attempt to try to fix a problem until you have worked out what the problem is, its not worth the effort and it will more than likely end in tears

I have been running a CAS with no D for years and was at one stage revving the car to 9000rpm and it hasn't skipped. I used to work for one of the well known Sydney Skyline shops and we always removed them and have never heard of one skipping a tooth. Sounds to me like someone who claims to know Skylines and seems to want to remove a non issue to be safe.

My half moon is gone, nothing to worry about until you remove the CAS as it can be a bitch to line back up Does the engine have the cam cover fitted? Really easy to check cam to crank lines up if its not put the crank on the zero timing mark. Check the dots on the cam gears line up with the lines on the timing cover backing plate. if they don't spin the crank pulley around 360 degrees and check them again. If they don't line up now you have issues. Regardless of cam timing the marks should like up. Post some pictures if your not sure As for the workshop that did it, they are hacks and should not have a licence. No mechanic I know of would ever take to a harmonic balancer with a tyre lever unless its stuck and cannot be removed without force

My reply wont be very technical but both sides are gone on my engine. Peter from Advan ported the head and the 2 squish zones were the first thing that went. We use standard GReddy/OS pistons and thinner head gasket just to bring up the compression a touch The engine seems to make decent power (485rwkw with a 6766, 1.0 rear, Caltex E-Flex at 23/24psi on the Unigroup dyno) It drives well off boost and is happy to cruise around. Car is a full weight S14a luxury spec with sunroof and runs a consistent 138mph down the strip. Yes it is RB26

I had a Trust sump and got rid of it for a Performance Metalcraft sump. Much larger capacity and and as has been said, no ground clearance issues. Given he motor is in an S14 it has massive clearance issues with the Trust extension. Leon at Performance Metalcraft was able to custom make the sump to my requirements and it fits like a glove

makes perfect sense to go after market really. You need to factor in some pipe work but its not that expensive

I love the Auto Salon cover from when it was featured back in what, 2005 or something and lol at the rare collectable

your not heading back to Unigroup any time soon are you? We made 485rwkw but we stopped at 24psi and would love to see your graph with ours on the same sheet. Only difference is ours is a 26 bottom end I am quite disappointed to be honest in how ours makes its power. Unfortunately i am limited to 24psi due to standard head studs and with the way ethanol fuel is possibly heading i am not really wanting to disturb the head and stud it as it may not be available in the long run. I had it back out at the drags a week or so ago and it didnt go any better. 60 foot is down ever so slightly due to new tyres, but it just wont run the first half of the track well. Still runs mid 130's mph wise, but it wont run a decent time. 11.3's pretty much all day

This is the one i am talking about. Ends up holding about 8 litres. You can also pick them up through Performance Metalcraft. http://www.hioctanedirect.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74&products_id=1646&zenid=e4qfdu4hsjvvafq7rea1gaoac3

geebus, not mucking around with this one hey Adrian. Will be good to see you back on the track I always wondered what happened to BU 5 STER, i now know

Whats the Plazmaman inlet worth? The version 2 Hypertune which Piggaz has referred to above is $4500 with rails and single throttle body. A later version is about $3500 Who said your TB's are leaking and whats it doing? I havent seen throttle bodies cause major issues in all the time i worked with them. Power wise they will shit it in. We make close to 500rwkw on a standard plenum and TB's. I could probably make some more if i switched, but maybe a little later, its got enough in it now

or getting an RB26 head for the block

I would pull the motor out but thats just me. I have extracted so many engines i could probably have the engine out before you even have half the plenum unbolted

The Trust one is junk compared to whats out there now. It not only hangs really low, the effort versus the reward isnt really worth it. Do a google search, you will find pics there

short shift it. I found the OS gear set i have doesn't like high rpm and as soon as i started short shifting it i went faster anyway.

I am gussing the 6466 direct swaps with a 6766? and they use the same rear housings? pretty sure i got a 1.0 on mine?

Makes me wonder if there someone on here that wants to swap me their 6466 for a 6766 as thats a big difference in response

Thats awesome. Has the car been down the drag strip? Would love to hear how much better it ran with the 6466 on it. Thats almost 90hp difference at 5000rpm. Is it on an RB26?

That it is mate. Nice turbo. We use to have a T78 on it but decided to try for some more power as Yavuz at Unigroup kept telling us there was something that seemed to be holding the power back. Put this turbo on and picked up quite a bit of power and about 8mph which is decent I have. I cant drive for crap but the car has run 11.00 with a best mph last time out of 138.5. Will be back out this Saturday with some new tyres to see if i can run a 10 with it. I think its responsive but having said that the car has had big singles on it for years so i am used to it. If your worried about lag go the 6466. The graphs above show the difference and had i seen that i would have gone the 6466. I ahve never been able to find a direct comparison as good as that one. Its quite eye opening to be honest Weapon X, so there wasnt much involved with those 2 graphs other than swapping out the turbo and a little bit of timing? Nothing else got changed? What sort of boost was it running and what fuel?

for an idea of what it will make on a streeter we have a 26 which is still a 26. Well ported head and a set of small cams. Runs Caltex E-Flex. On the Unigroup Dyno it made 485rwkw at 24psi, may have been slightly less boost, i will need to check the dyno graph. 1.0 rear end on it. The car traps 138mph and weighs 1400 odd kgs so its making decent power