ido09s

sold

Its true the government is yet to decide but removing the grants given to those that produce ethanol is real and should be decided on soon. If the grant is pulled then ethanol based fuels will die a sad death in Australia as its simply too expensive to import I am also at a bit of a loss as to why Shell would be importing it when they are getting out of fuel in Australia

nobody is interested? I hate fleabay and really don't want to go there......

raced a couple of weeks ago ET Streets, crap launch (1.9 60 footer) best i could manage was an [email protected] so happy with the mph, just need to figure out why it won't pull a decent time

I am with the rest, by the time you get decent AFM's the PFC isn't such great value Get a Link G4 or a Haltech, much better options

What mph will you be running it at on the dyne? 88mph? I reckon 2 point twenty one jigawatts

Open to offers guys

Tyres for sale 2 x Advan Sport 103's. 235/40/18's. 2 x Advan Neova AD08 (not R) 265/35/18's Plenty of tread left on them all. A few years old but perfect for street duties. We only replaced them because we got a fresh set of AD08R's Asking $500ono for the lot. Just want them gone Email me on [email protected] for pics etc

I would argue that the difference is simply a badge. Can you put a 5.7l V8 into an SV6 Commodore without an engineers cert, its not the same car as an SS by your way of thinking but i am sure as hell they wouldnt bat an eye lid at it We both know there are subtle chassis differences but thats not what your argument is based around. Your argument is based simply on the fact the boot lid wears a different badge

Piss the atmo BOV off and it should stop the stalling when coming to a stop. The problem is the AFM is registering a certan ammount of air passing through it and then your dumping it out of the system and screwing up the tune As for launching, its trial and error

Call Leon and ask him what he can do for you. He would probably do exchange and send you a sump ready to bolt it on

Try Garage 88 out at Eastern Creek. I dont think they stock stuff but they seem to be able to get their hands on alomost anything from Japan

Take the 26 sump to a decent fabricator and ask him to cut the diff off it and weld it up. The 26 sump has quite a bit of strength to it. While they are at it put a decent extension on it to your oil side of things is sorted. If your in Sydney Performance Metalcraft know what to do with it While the engine is out i would also put a decent oil pump on it so you dont have to worry about pulling it out again any time soon

420rwkw on E85, 25psi, in a 1400 kilo car that ran 137mph with a GReddy T78. Used to have very very usable power by 4000rpm Now making 485rwkw on E85 at 25psi with a Precision 6766 and 1.0 rear. Will tell you Sunday what it runs Seriously forget the 42 and look into a Precision, Much smaller, much better response and still massive power considering the size of them. They are tiny in comparison.

do some decent porting of the head and it will make it easier. We had a T78 on an RB26 and depending on the dyno it made either 460rwkw or 400rwkw lol All we cared about was that it ran 130mph+ on 98 pump fuel so the dyno figures didnt really matter. It now makes 485rwkw on E85 and time will tell what mph and et it runs now

Doubtful as they all came out of the same workshop, built by the same person. Machined by the same shop using the same techniques. The only difference i can think of is that we run GReddy pistons and rings, the rest ran CP's. Who knows Our car was tuned prior to the rebuild. Its been in the car for damn, 9 years almost now and still going strong. I was going to put head studs in it but not going to bother until the government figures out what will happen with ethanol based fuels and the cleaner fuels grants. Not much use if ethanol will be dead in Australia because they pull the funding

Thats where i differ, i drove ours easy for the first 3000klms and we have little to no blowby at 25psi of boost from a 6766. Makes near 500rwkw and is a beast of an engine. I know people who drove them hard and ended up with shit boxes that had nothing but issues. I guess every one is different MJTru, if i were you i would be getting a quality aftermarket oil pressure gauge and hooking it up to check the oil pressure. Just pull the standard switch out and put the gauge in there. The standard gauge is ok for knowing when something major fails but for a fresh engine to be setting off lights like this i think i would be checking it further to confirm 100% there are no issues.

We run ours purely on E-Flex and when the oil pump broke it sat for 18 months with E-Flex in the tank. Obviously the oil got drained when i pulled the motor out but all i did was drain the fuel from the tank and put some fresh stuff in and it started straight up The fuel filter has been in the car for years, the car probably only does 1000klms a year, and so far so good. Its just a standard Ryco filter that is inline between the tank pump and the surge tank. The car has braided hoses for the feeds and the standard return which has also been hassle free. Runs 3 044's and a set of 200cc ID's and again, no hassles

Send Yavuz at Unigroup Engineering an email and ask him if he can give you some insight into what is going on. Whilst i am sure any reputable workshop would be able to help you, Yavuz worked with Ross Balancers to design this crank trigger so he will be able to tell you exactly what you need.

Its RB25's that constantly break studs I have maybe broken one in all the pairs i have taken off RB26's. As for the OP wanting to remove the turbo's, just take your time and you will be right. There is a sequence to taking them off that makes it easier but you will figure it out as you go.

What would you prefer, to waste $50 on a few dyno runs or find out the engine needs a rebuild? I would always have it checked just in case. No two cars are ever the same

not the first one i have seen and of all the ones i have seen they have had external oil pumps. Must just be a weak spot in the standard crank that doesnt like the added pressure of a oil pump belt

with regard to your original question, i would almost guarantee that one of your turbo's has come loose on a manifold. I had many a turbo off to fix the dreaded exhaust squeel With regard to ECU, I wouldnt worry too much about knock. If its got a decent tune in it to begin with your not likely to run into too many issues. I actually found them to more of an issue as all the ECU picks up is a noise and it could be just about anything. A decent set of headphones on the engine while its being tuned and a decent source of fuel should be all you need these days

I went slightly different and fitted a pair of -6 lines from the two 044 pumps to the fuel rail,-6 out of the centre of the rail to the FPR, and the largest standard line as the return to the surge. I have contemplated a fuel cooler as it does get warm, i have a spare -10 GReddy oil cooler core, but havent got around to it.

space the front of the diff down Just dont blame me if it starts breaking things lol