ido09s

not this one mate, Leon has been making them for years, ours has been on the car for years, and not one drop of oil has seeped through it

330rwkw on the Unigroup dyno Charlie. It was only on BP98 as well so if we ever tuned it on E85 it would certainly run 10's without too many issues

I use one of these from Performance Metalcraft in Rydalmere. I dont know what they retail for but they can be made to whatever spec you want. Ours is a 2WD so the diff is removed and holes plugged

Not mine, but i built it. Full weight R32 GTR 11.3@125mph. Unopened with some steel wheel turbos on it. Runs on Bob Jane All Rounders as well

Shows how long its been since i sold a GTR box then. The last complete one i sold i got $1500 for it pretty quickly

Pretty much what i run Mitchee. Annoying somewhat isnt it. You hate the fact your so close to being booted for both cage and a parachute but glad as you get another crack at it What sort of car and how much power?

Maybe in NZ they are, not in Oz.

Why? Just run an RB25 5 speed. I dont understand why you would go to such lengths when a box is available that doesnt need modifictions

Was definitely going to be one at a time thats for sure. I know people that have done it on other engines so see now reason it wont work here. I just hoped i wouldnt need to strip it all down

GReddy and a Tomei 1mm gasket

Its a decent build and has a 6766 on it. Makes 485rwkw on 25psi and E85 but i want some more but i dont want to lift the head.

I found an allen key socket easily enough to not have to worry about that:) My next question, and this is going to sound dodgy, is can i get all the head studs out without taking the cams out? There is nothing wrong with the motor so i am hoping to swap the standard head studs for the ARP ones while the head is in place Its been 5 years since i have done an engine and something tells me i cant get one of the back head bolts out with the cams in place. I have also read a few stories where they recommend torquing the head down to the same tension as changing it may distort the block and change the bore shape..... what are peoples thoughts?

thanks guys, much appreciated. I know its an allen key type socket and needs to also be a longer one, i just had no idea what size the allen key was.

I have tried searching but cant find anything easily What size hex socket do i need to remove standard RB26 head studs? Got some ARP's i want to install and am hoping to buy the socket prior to pulling the car apart. I know it needs to be a long reach one but cant remember what size it is Brad

I wouldnt bother with a generic air filter enclosure as they normally need to be modified to suit each car Go see Leon at Performance Metalcraft and get him to make you an alloy one. Its going to cost you more but it will be a perfect fit

Rotormaster/GAS looked after me really well. I think i paid $2300 for a 6766, twin scroll with 1.0 rear. I also got the V band and drain adaptor from them

they arent bolt ons lol Definitely not the ones Joe showed me thats for sure.

If its the ones Joe at Rotormaster showed me i believe the 4828's are direct replacements. Supposed to be a damn nice upgrade as well apparently. SCR48, gear selection wont really make much difference power wise on a dyno, its not night and day anyway, It will only affect torque readings as its obviously the gearboxes job to multiply torque

I should have also asked what engine, i am after a T4 flange to suit RB26

What manifold have you got now? I have a mate looking for a Trust manifold to suit a T78. If you want to sell it let me know

Sold

I know its old but people seem to be digging up old posts and sending messages about this stuff, and i cant edit the original post SOLD

As has been said, just sell it or take the cash and get hookers and blow lol Anything you do it is not going to increase the price you get for it so why spend money on it

At 400rwkw you have more to worry about than the rod bolts I would be putting a Tomei oil pump and large volume baffled sump on it before i bothered with the bolts. If your that worried about it all letting go rebuild the whole thing and be done with it because you will never be happy with it until you do

First step, get rid of the Mines ECU as they arent even worth their value in scrap. A stock ECU is a far better option. I would suggest a Link or Haltech over the standard ECU as a much better option.