ido09s

Cusco rear traction arms to suit most Nissans (almost like new) - $150 Provided they suit series 2 S14 where can they be picked up from?

Piston slap? Wouldnt be the first time i have seen knock sensors picking it up

1440kg's with a pathetic driver, that would be me 420rwkw 11.06 136.7mph ET Streets 485rwkw and a 2 step for some consistant launches now so who knows

sycorb, do you have a stock exhaust and air box?

You wouldnt have a stock exhaust and air box would you?

Ditch the braided hose that came with the HKS kit and make it up yoruself. Most of the braided hose from the HKS kit would be usable, just cut it and put the required fittings etc in to make it all work. Earls sell the filter housings and they work well

running a tank dead dry will not allow the pump to pick up dirt lol where do you think the sock sits that picks up the fuel? I can tell you now it aint at the top of the tank or you would never drive long enough to see the gauge drop Take the car back to the dyno if it can be driven and get it on there to see what its doing. Sitting behind the laptop is not going to sort it out any time soon. You have said ages ago that the car used to splutter and stall and clearly the mods now done to the car have not changed anything so there is something else that needs attention Who tuned it? With regard to turbo upgrades, take a look into the new Precision Turbo GTR replacements. From what i have seen they should be good for some pretty decent power. Just run them at low boost

Just replace it. Bearings are worth stuff all and well worth being changed given the motor is out. With regard to the rest of the motor, if you can afford it rebuild it if you plan to continue drifting it as its a pretty destructive sport. The engine will need to be rebuilt sooner or later so why not do it now

With 528rwkw if it doesnt run 150mph i would be asking questions as to how accurate that dyno graph is With an S14 that makes 420rwkw i was running 137mph on ET STreets and that is a lot more power than i had

I wouldnt even take the car back .If the guy cant tune an ECU with multiple throttle bodies, or is in any way scared of them, then hes not up to the task. As has already been said its an old school thing that has no bearing on todays products. I would use a MAP sensor only because, in my experience, they are less likely to fail. For some reason i have seen quite a few dud AFM's

Unless its got issues thats not normally the case. Every GTR box i pulled out went back together fine, and trust me i did heaps What you can do as a cheap mod is pull the plate out of the transfer case that the line goes into. Drill and tap a hole and put a bolt in it with a locking nut on it. Spin it in a bit to preload the trasfer case. I wouldnt drive around with it locked up very tight as you will probably wear it out but it would be fine for the drags As for getting your car down the dragstrip sime1, what rpm is it crossing the line at and in what gear? What 60 footer does it run and is it spinning or bogging? I had issues trapping at much more than 128mph and did a diff gear change and now run 136mph pretty regularly. Car weighs in at 1460 and was only making 420rwkw on the Advan dyno till the turbo change. Depending on what the cars doing there are also some very cheap mods that can be done to help traction. Some washers is all it took for me to go from wheel spinning to bogging down pretty badly. You could also ask Yavuz to set up the 2 step on the Link, from memory it is running a Link isnt it?

If you really want an aftermarket map sensored ECU i would go the Link. I dont know who tunes them in Melbourne but maybe speak to Maztech and see what Anthony thinks. He will probably say a Microtech or Haltech though i think

Worst turbo ever those things, all things considered they dont even make that much power. I had better response from my old T78 truck turbo

According to our dyno graph we have 14psi at 4200 with a 1.0 split pulse rear and a 6766 on a stock stroke RB26. Admittedly the head is ported though so you should be pretty happy with the 6262

I would get a second opinion. I have never heard of an RB ruining a head like that.

Such a nice looking engine, please tell me your going to clean up the throttle bodies and the throttle body plate some more I know i should keep my negative comments to myself but it would look so much nicer if they were bead blasted and looked like new!!!! Also could i suggest upgrading the oil pump to a Tomei pump. An N1 probably wont last too long on an engine with that sort of power. Will a 6262 make that much power at 25ish psi of boost? 600rwhp is 450ish rwkw.... i am running a 6766 and make 485rwkw at 25psi with a pretty damn healthy RB26

anyone?

ditch the RB if all you want is 230hp and just put an SR20 in it. That will make that power pretty damned easily Putting an Rb into a Silvia is a nightmare as keeping it cool is difficult. An SR is no problems though

its a 33D 17cm. I must admit, the car gets driven very rarely, i am talking about 500klms a year, so its a little difficult to comment on the response, but it doesnt seem to be all that different The drag strip will be the main test. If it goes faster i am happy, if it doesnt, there will be hell to play with lol

I would discuss it with the tuner and see what they say. If they are a decent workshop they should correct it free of charge

To be honest we couldnt really find much to compare it to on the dyno results and i havent really driven it a lot to get an idea of just how much better it is. Its only because its ridiculously fast and to drive it in anger on the streets is asking for a jail sentence!!!!! You know your onto something though when the speedo turns as quickly as the tacho would in third gear lol But to give you an idea. The car runs a stock cranked RB26. We have limited it rpm wise to about 8800. We have spun it to 9500 in the past and although the good old RB sounds awesome at 9500, i just dont like doing it with a stock crank. Its got a fairly well ported head, squish zones removed on both sides with some GReddy 264/272 cams. Small lift with 9.7mm, standard valves and a 1.mm head gasket. Its nothing special to be honest, though i am sure others may think differently. The day i find a cheap GT block is the day it will get serious, though i reckon i have more chance of finding a unicorn lol Response seems to be pretty much the same. On 25psi we used to make 430rwkw with the T78 and now its making 485rwkw. Thats on the Unigroup dyno. This is on Caltex E-Flex. We are going to push it further, i just need to put some head studs in it and get a new boost controller. Currently it has standard head studs in it and the good old Profec B only has a 2 bar map sensor in it. I am confident that on 30/32psi we should see close 550rwkw With the T78 on it the car went 11.006 and a best mph of 137. The car weighs 1420kgs with me in it. I am very curious to see how it goes mph wise with the 6766 on it. I just hope it doesnt go 140+ too quickly as we dont want to have to put a chute on it before i run a decent et I will try and get the dyno graph up some time tonight for you so you can have a look at it but from what i have seen so far i would go a 6766 over a Kai. They are an old laggy piece of shit in comparison. We tuned one when i worked at Advan and i was pretty shocked at how laggy it was

Its a bit inconsistant given you heard a loud bang and as said above, you would normally expect a loud bang to be much more than simply a vacuum hose. Unless its the fuel reg hose and it caused the tune to go haywire and it was in a backfire out the exhaust Obviously reconnect that hose, but i would agree you have probably also popped an intercooler hose. Get underneath and give them a real good look over as they can often look like they are still connected properly after they have popped off.

We set out wanting to run 12's with the 200 and it went 13.0@107mph with a standard turbo, it was close enough, so much for that target. We then moved the goal post a bit a few times due to the target being easier than we thought. 8 years down the track it makes a bucket load of power and i cant drive it Its run 11.006@137mph with the old T78 on it which is reasonable but when you consider its run 137mph i have some work to do. Will see how the 6766 goes next time out

All you will have is the bare turbos at the moment, you need to strip a lot of yours off and fit it to the new ones. You will spend an hour or so i reckon changing it all over.

Ditch the ECU all together, much better ECU's out there now. Link / Vipec, Haltech. There is nothing wrong with the old Power FC as such, its just that they are very old now and there are better options around. They still use AFM's which are fiddly at times and a MAP Sensor is hassle free in comparison. Power FC dont really offer much by way of upgrades / options. Link, Vipec, Haltech all have lots of options and accessories to add to them. Motorsports stuff, Flex fuel sensor capability, much better boost control options etc IIRC the drains and all coolant / oil lines should work from the standard turbo's. Just get yourself a stack of new gaskets. For gaskets try calling Powertune. They are having a moving sale at the moment and may very well have the gasket kits laying around. The kits will come with everything. Copper seals for the coolant and oil lines, new intake gaskets, new flange gaskets etc