DAN00H

James - PULL YOUR HEAD FROM YOUR RECTUM! 'thread runing whore' - do you enven know what that means? or are you parioting the colourful language that your daddy calls your mummy? go have a look at the prices from the GENUINE DO-LUCK site

my wife complains that she hasn't been in it since the kids arrived...

AX-onevia (Matt) your inbox is full

how does it ruin your thread? - not what I intended! only showing what the 3 piece was I'm only intereasted in the front bar, skirts adn rear bar if anyone else is intersted in the other parts?

Matt PM sent re items. cheers

Meh - I have HKS GT2530's and am totally satisfied with them. spent a lot of time ensuring I got decent response from them + they are still pulling hard at the top end. I HAVE NOT driven an R32 GTR with GT-SS, but after changing up from the stockers, didn't notice a notworthy difference in respone, but DID notice the mid - top end. Be happy with what you have regardless everyones setup is different - if you want more top end look to swap for larger set, or more response - swap for a smaller set. I have found EBC setup and engine tune makes a huge difference, but that is just me.

Don't tell him that! someone could pick up a bargain pair of GT-SS for $500 less than a pair of garretts LOL Nah - i agree with the above - response is what you want for a street GTR. Adz Take him up on the offer of the swap get the Genuine HKS article!

Can't find the actual thread (between working!) but GTRsean mentioned getting one of the billet gear sets, muight be worth a PM?

searching for the thread. it showed the N1, Jun and the custom oil pump. will attach link once found

3pc kit (front bar, side skirts and rear bar) currently $2346 + shipping for those wondering.

you won't need cams - stick with the stockers. if you must have some let me know. short split type dumps are better than stock and can be had for $150. I know of a set of Z32's can check if you want?

This is what I would go with as you have listed; Deck square to tunnels √ Bore and hone √ Balance √ Acid bath block √ Reco head ,complete ? retainers/ guides can sometimes fail – but plenty of stock/ original headed GTR’s getting around. I’d only consider if yours was noisy, had poor seats/ spring tension or obvious damage. Assemble engine from sump to covers √ Water pump - not N1, stock is better for the street, N1 for Track. Oil restrictor ? I’ll get flamed, but not needed as you are not using a pump that shifts a lot of oil (i.e. Jun). Better off with decent oil return to the sump mods (not the return from the rear of the head – galleries) N1 pump as per customer decision Ok if you can’t get one of the machined drive gears that was done by a forum member. R33 crank ?– is yours too damaged to use with a drive extension? Lot of coin for a new crank (> $1000) Forged pistons and rings √ H beam rods NO use stockers with tomei/ APR bolts Gates belt √ any will do really Nissan gasket set √ Mlsr steel head gasket √ Acl race bearings √ Remove engine , remove accessories refit engine and fit accessories run in and tune the stock AFm's run out of resolution ~ 300rwkw, so yes a set of Z32's or RB25's or NISMO replacements will be required. I got my Z32's brand new with new tomei plugs for under $500. keep in mind that the Z32's require differnent pipework as they are physically larger. NISMO are more expensive, but will fit the stock pipework (can be a little hard to find at times). All will require A/M management (you have a PFC yes?) have you changed the pump? if not, let me know (I have a nismo intank that you can have cheap if required) or grab a walbro 255 or bosch 040. Honestly, if the quote for what you listed is competitive with Lewis and you like/ trust the builder then go with that - you will not be unhappy as it will suit a range of turbo options. Lewis at 6.5k is a good option that will also suit GT-SS to GT2530 sized Garrett turbos (5's, 7's or 9's). I personally use HKS GT2530's. I don't think your build components will be over or under utilizing any of the above chosen turbos. you are a winner whatever you do as the potential will be 300rwkw - 400rwkw (engine build in what I have seen - I'm no expert)

Adz I think you had some pretty definitive advice on the build especially with regards to rods. if you have been given a good price on what you last listed and are happy with that, I can't see what else you need to know. great thing is you have a number of good options infront of you for the rebuild now you just choose what suits you best.

by all accounts they stand by the workmanship. isn't there a few drifters using their engines? have ot say, they look pretty well setup. I don't think you need a mega dollar build for your goals, just go the 6.5k rebuild, garrett turbos and away you go. there ar a lot of stock engines making over 300rwkw, so the lewis engine will be good for your goal save yourself some money (you don't need a lot of stuff that has been listed + you ahve a lot of good gear already).

10k sounds a lot for a bottom end rebuild (inc forged rods / pistons, unless they are tomei/ HKS etc) as eagles can be found for $750 and CP's for <$1000 now. that is what a lot of builders are using I see around here. perhaps he is thinking an HKS step 3 kit really need to see what the quote is.

just like key bangers for non injected cars... drive along at say 60km, switch off ignition and pump accelerator pedal vigourisly, then flick the ignition on again and shazam - a nice big BANG from the excess fuel. sounds great, but I blew the exhaust off a friends corona years ago when we used to do this for a bit of fun wouldn't put one on my GTR...

show us the list

No hassles mate - everyone is entitled to their own opinion, why should I or anyone else have an issue with that Normally if it was a residential street (60km zone with people everywhere) I'd be down on that behaviour... just really sh*ts me the way media and politics run so many peoples lives (AND opinions!) and jump on this sort of thing like it's money (anyone reading between the lines there?). don't even get me started on the fact most of the people making such preposterous laws were doing stupider things in their day...

Good one the old guy for sticking it to the cops clearly he knows the road, his ability and car... when we continue to lose motorsport venues (Oran park, Canberra dragway) this sort of thing will happen. the world is too PC and too quick to jump into litigation. Thumbs up for showing some spirit

must puk's i've used are like a switch! on or off clutches wear when people slip them for example on a hill riding the clutch... that causes heat, which cna lead to slippage. if you are going to launch hard (on boost) don't go for a gentle takeoff as could lead to slipage. (what happens to mine if I use lots of revs adn a slow clutch release...)

depends on how you treat it, but being puk it will bite... my excedy single holds, just don't ride/ slip it too much.

LOL - with a flip up boss?

Mate - that looks like Stirlo's old car! (ex Canberra, imported directly from Japan in Jan 2004 same time as mine ), unless I am mistaken (any interior pics?) He had the engine rebuilt with forgies after pushing the stockies to 18psi and ingesting ceramic dust into the engine! Cost was ~ 7k I believe. that oil cooler is very distinctive I believe it had a kit in the gearbox as well. any more info, let me know

sounds like the tailshaft is out of balance to me. has the clutch been replaced? if so, the tailshaft may not have been properly aligned to the diff housing. that is what I would check.

more information? how hot? does it do it from a cold start up, or only after running a while (hard drive of normal)? what happens if you try to rev - does it stall or splutter or what? try your AFM connections 1st - although usually they allow 3000rpm. I once had a TFI module that would cut the engine due to temp - was a bugger of a thing to track down... I'm thinking it could be an igniter or similar. oh if that fails, stop pressing the middle pedal, as its the brake - you want the one on the right