DAN00H

ZZR250's are great, that was my first road bike. Stay away from bikes that that to peaky in revs or power delivery - not fun to drive in traffic. as suggested ride a few to see what you like. A good alternative is the road trial (i.e. the DRZ above) - allows you to mount kerbs with ease and more comfortable at traffic speeds (nice to haev the upright position. lots of choice, don't spend too much (likely you will throw it up the road at some stage) most importantly - GET THE BEST TYRES AVAILABLE! yes they will cost, but worth every penny...

Quite right - but am I mistaken drawing from the comments that rb26's spit the dummy when stock with anything near/ over 500hp? lot of people are quick to jump on that wagon. besides, my example did not refer to how long, as the indications are as soon as you go to that level its imminent destruction regardless... no - I don't drop the clutch at 8500rpm as it is not a race car. Just making my own point.

for me (after driving both) the GTR - as mentioned it has usable back seats + nicer driving position, nicely balanced cars. BTW - my 1989 GTR is making in excess of 500hp (has been for ages) and it is fine? yes - it's internally stock, bolt on's only. I'd be interested to see what RIPS has to say about all the comments of RB's not withstanding more than 499.99hp stock before letting go of their lunches LOL

be realistic in price and it will sell. you can import a stock one in the condition you mention for easy 20k. I'd have a hard time selling mine for what its insured for, but that is due to to the fact most people want something newer for that money.... Mine is one of the mint 89's that I bought bofore everyone jumped in on the act and I'll be keeping it as I couldn't replace it with another.

stock GTR pump is closer to 190l/h, not 276 as you mentioned.

looks great (like mine in Silver!) very good price - I will send this on to a mate.

FYI to the above - there are starlet GT's - turbo from the factory...

NTSA if you are gettign the T1-S/R at a cheap price, then grab them. they are a great performing tyre. how much are you talking?

If my RB26 ever breaks (unlikely given I've only done 5000km driving in the last 4 years, and easy stuff at that) I'm goign to drop in something a little different.

I can't believe there are people on this forum saying she should not be charged! lets replace the woman (WHO WAS AT FAULT) with all you bleeding hear types - now, do you think the magistrate would be so easy on you regardless of licence type (L's, P's Full)!?!?! No Fu*king way! go back to the most basic requirements of holding ANY licnece and it stipulates that you MUST remain in control of the car. The fact she has had the 'previous traumatic event' SHOULD NOT have been taken into account at all! SHE KILLED SOMEONE'S POOR DAUGHTER + gets to have another go in 3 year!?!?! WTF! hopefully the DPP will appeal it to a higher court (criminal charges) if not the affected people should pursue it through a civil action! How would YOU feel if it was YOUR daughter/ wife/ sister/ girlfriend not coming home that day?

Hi All As the topic states, I have located a business that will rebuild Skyline aircon compressors for <$500 (good as new and much better than chancing a second hand one that's been sitting around for years...) I am getting definite pricing next week, so will update here once I know. details- Will come capped up with oil (please don't ask if they come with gas) and ready to install. Each compressor goes through the same procedure of cleaning and building. Pulled down using latest tools and equipment. Washed internals using "White Spirits". Sandblasted housings, both inside and out.(thats how the clean alloy look is acheived) The scroll checked over throroughly and new ball bearings (if required). New seals and gaskets throughout. Bench tested using state of the art testing bench. Leak checked using Nitrogen. Full reco clutch installed, just plug it in to existing plug. (Machined front shoe and pulley with new bearing + tested coil) All compressors come with a full 12 month Australia wide warranty against faulty workmanship(does NOT include damage through freight or incorrect installation) Must be installed and gassed by a qualified and licenced Air Con Mechanic. Postage Prices: Vic - $11.55 NSW, ACT, SA, TAS - $15 WA & QLD - $23 Cheers Dan

not good mate - I had mine stuffed by a mob that changed it over to R134A - worked fine before that, but I can't prove they left moisture in the system... I'll be looking to get a new compressor pump too. I will let you know how I go.

These are great coilovers! I run Zeal's on my R32 GTR, fantastic price, very easy to adjust anyone who buys the cheaper purple coilovers instead of these is mad! you will not be dissapointed!

what happened to the I/C? how come you bought the car without seats/ front bar etc? was the car partially stripped in japan? Dash alignment looks kinda odd to me... do you have all the correct paperwork?

where did you get it from/ what was the sorty on the missing VIN number? for my money, that is the biggest concern...

is the RB26 block still complete?

pity they are in melbourne... great price on the Brix

I can't understand why there are many saying a cam with greater lift (therefore greater cylinder filling capacity) won't work better than a stocker... isn't that what the mines cam package is all about?

I'll see if I can come along. Have been on the forums for ages, but have been quite for a long time... only know a couple of SAU guys (and Stirlo sold his GTR!).

Hey mate i'd hold off on teh engineers cert as they cost over $500. HKS Air Pod (fully secured, but not in an enclosed box) - is fine in the ACT - NSW must be enclosed. Front Mount IC - should be fine if is a good/ clean install Boost guage on dash - place it out of sight somewhere. Turbo Timer - they didn't worry about mine, but just miove it under the dash somewhere out of sight. tinted windows (think they will defn get me here) - I had to remove tint from the rear window (mongrel job...) full 3inch apexi exhaust (gonna buy a silencer to quieten before i go in) noise test is at 3000rpm, see if you can get it tested at a garage somewhere first) manual boost controller - place out of view Apexi Blow Off Valve - they will hit you for this unless it is plumb back (you could even run some dummy pipe to a hidden location if it has that option) Strut Brace - fine TEIN Coilovers - fine, just wind them up. BTW, my exhaust scrapped and they still passed it LOL! cheers, JD

you could always try the simplest solution and see if all the vacuum lines are connected at the back of the climate control panel - don't laugh, I had the exact symptoms you described - checked everything they pulled the stero out again and found i'd knocked the lines off. 5 minute job and problem solved. i had added a new head unit.

I use castrol edge 0w-40 without any issues, change it every 3000 - 4000km. lot cheaper than Motul and redline and I haven't noticed any difference in performance between these 3 oils.

forget the 12hr race - throw the GTR in against the V8 'supercars'[LOL]. that has to be one of the most overrated, over publicised, extraneous and boring series around. When did you last see a production falcon or commodore roll off the production line with a 302 windsor or 307 chev? Gee - either a Ford or Holden will win... looking forward to the GTR kicking arse in all categories it is entered into

you can buy mine - genuine GTR item unmarked condition.

hey lads, I looked at doing this to one of my twin turbo pipes (have two), but decided instead to make my own Trust/HKS/Nismo split pipes off each turbo. I have the additional pipework, just need to finish the measurements + get the new rubber elbows (rubber works just as well as silicon + it is oodles cheaper!) all up, it should cost me LESS than $250. I'll post some pics and details once done (don't have a lot of spare time ATM due to my newborne!) I don't get on here regularly, but will try to finish it off soon...