DAN00H

I agree with gun32gtr, pick a good 32 and you will have no hassel! I'm in the same boat as gun32gtr, only spent money on mine for upgrades... besides, all the people saying the R33 is newer - thier is only 1 year seperating Jeff's choices - what makes you so sure the R33 will be so much better in the suspension?!?!?! assumptions.... Jeff - Don't look at anything except the VspecII if genuine - great investment!!! Again, I am someone that prefers the look of the R32.

think you will also find people in the market for a GTR will tend to go the R32, as they are more affordable for younger guys. When I was in the market to buy my GTR, I saved over $10k by importing mine - a lot of people would be tempted to import their own. Another thing that no-one else has mentioned is that fact that you have only had the car 6 months... people would be wary of this fact.

is this what you want? (see attachment - they don't wrap around) I have a pair if you want them. PM me.

the only thing that would be any good is getting hold of one of the newly developed dyson electric motors that spins at 100,000rpm and build an electric/ turbo hybrid. Imagine an RB with something the size of a T51 with instant response + the ability to set the boost via motor speed... only problem is the 240volt energy source from your car hopefully it is something that can be developed in the future...

again - it is the cam timing being out - the boost controller is a red herring in this one... the tuner has not put the belt on correctly, or has the timing set wrong.

Cam timing is out - I reckon the AVCR is not the issue.... Justin, get your tuner/ builder to recheck the timing and belt positioning...

I did mine with the engine in - do a search as I posted how to guide some time ago. it is not that difficult, it just takles a little while (I mostly did mine at night after work) Do you have a copy of the workshop manual? as this makes it easier as well (details the process )

An interesting note on the cats guys - only the apexi cat has a rating of 130cpsi (thats cells per square inch). I have heard a lot of alligation from Metal cat, Magic and Catco saying that each don't actually meet the 200cpsi measurement - i.e. it is actually more than 200cpsi... we all know that the higher the cpsi, the higher the restriction....

any of the jap high capacity pumps will meet your needs easily. I run a nismo pump in mine - but you can look at HKS, SARD, PE etc... I'll send you a PM.

LOL - issue resolved, it was the belt out by one tooth on both the intake and exhaust cams...

Sounds similar - I'll be checking all my hoses today, has to be simple as it was fine before... (BOV's worked without issue before...) Cheers

Hi All Well. I'm scratching my head a bit over this one, my normally reliable and strong R32 GTR is having some major issues ATM. After installing a bigger (ARC) I/C and HKS cam gears my car has developed some weird boost issue. I hardly drive this car, and after making the changes discoverd it had developed a nasty boost related (I think) issue. It started up ok, but seemed a bit slow to bring the RPM up to the usual 1000rpm - took a few seconds, but I thought nothing of it seeing as it hadn't been driven in some time. Anyhow, after warm up, I trundle out onto the road and find it seems reluctant to rev and didn't want to boost..... (this was about 1/4 throttle max!). after getting it up into the higher gears (80km/h) the BOV's start singing their own little song of open close, open close and constantly... no changes in throttle position... Normally this thing makes a comfortable 280rwkw (GT2530's), so is not slow - but I'm a bit perplexed as to what has occured... I have refitted the stock I/C - No change Double checked the timing - 20deg (factory) - thinking of throwing the stock cam wheels back on, but I think it is highly unlikely this is the cause) checked all the conections - all ok Initially thought is was a boost leak, but none found another thing I have noticed is that after going up the driveway (500m) onto the road (500m) and back with no more than 1/4 throttle the turbos seem to be VERY hot (the water boils in the water feed...) Any ideas? Only thing I can think of is perhaps something was in the outlet end tank and is not stuck in the plenum...? Cheers Dan

just to add another angle - anyone noticed that 'cosworth' are now doing the internal parts for the RB26 - currently looking for a Aust distributor. I say'cosworth', as it is not cosworth as we traditionally know it - they are now owned by Mahle.... reason - because Mahle saw that cosworth had the reputation and expertise to both bring Mahle into the more mainstream arena and provide some excellent technical knowledge. This came from reading an interview of the CEO (or equiv, Dr someone...) of Mahle. I know what I would be getting if I was rebuilding my RB26!!

No way I'd lay down 10k for a rebuild! I'd expect around half that for a decent (not a big HP race engine) quality rebuild. I'd suggest you PM SXR and ask some questions. One of the Canberra guys had his RB26 rebuilt (inc R&R) with forgies, new W/P, O/P, shot/p rods, full balance etc for $5.5k.....

return them mate - they should fit well if specifically for your car....

Nissan did it one the Superturbo March (in an issues of HPI). I understand some ppl in the UK are trying it. search the UK GTR forum.

you can stay with the stock AFM's if you are not upgrading right now. go to any exh shop and get them to make you a Y intake piece. easiest way to do this is take 2 90 degree bends (one end facing compressor intake and the other the washer bottle) then put enough space between them to fit the AFM's and filters (note, you will need to have one pipe sitting slightly higher than the other). once you have it all lined up, you get the welder to cut a hole in the outside of the 90 deg bend that is closest to the turbo and fit a straight section of pipe from the front 90 deg pipe into the hole. they sould not have any trouble doing this sort of thing.

as already mentioned - stick with the HKS turbo and get it rebuilt if needed.

my initial thought was as per SK (smoke on lift off), but interestign it has only started doing it since this turbos went on. does it blow smoke on start up after it has been standing? if so, it is most likely the valve stem seals. But what you describe sounds more like a turbo related issue. check all your oil fitings as well as breather hoses...

mate, i say stick with the SR20, lot easier in terms of insurance/ engineering/ rego not to mention you are upsetting the balance of te car (yes, i know there are many cars with the 6cyl conversion, but Nissan designed them with the 4) for the price of the conversion you are considering, you can get a HKS turbo, ECU, Pump, injectors, I/C... the list is endless and it will eat the stock 1JZ or RB25..... added - just noticed you had the CA and offloaded it.... I still vote the SR20. If you go ahead with the 6cyl, consider the upgrades avail and their costs.

the guys on the UK GTR forums have discussed this topic at great length - go have a look.

interested - any better pics? hard to make out the detail as they are black! YHPM

will get the dyno graphs scanned so that I can post here. stock everything bar M's pods and large front pipes + 3in highflow cat and 3in exhaust = 230rwkw @ 10psi same as above parts, but with HKS intank pump, GT2530's Xforce dumps = 275rwkw @ 17psi - not DET, safe AFR's (it still wanted more boost!) yet to fit PFC, Sard 700 inj's, HKS cam gears, bigger AFM's and 3.5in exhaust. shooting for ~ 320rwkw. oh - all done on a non rebuilt '89 GTR that I have had for near 2 years.

don't be scared by all the engine failure horror stories. I've had mine for year and a half now and it is still going strong. just about to upgrade to 2530's. just give it a good service (something you CAN do yourself) and listen to the sounds it makes and watch your gauges..... oh, and don't run 18 psi on the stock turbos (eh stirlo )

R32 GTR STD Turbos, one has no exhaust wheel, no shaft play,done approx 55,000kms $250 for good one or $300 for both. Post anywhere at buyers expence. can say who its for if you like so they can look up my selling record which is perfect. but contact is via email [email protected] or phone 0439782278 I'm posting this for stirlo_GTR, as he can't get SAU access ATM (ha - neither can I from work!!!) - so please contact him as above. Cheers Dan