DAN00H

no way I would be so brutal on my GTR!!! even if I was loaded I doubt I would want to destroy my car....

Mate, the B/C is there to provide the suction to OPEN the wategates when it reaches a pre determined boost. your way of connecting the two hoses is causing the wastegates to be oopening all the time - the opposite of what you are trying to achieve... get a good aftermarket boost controller (I run the SBC iD III)

tune your car I'd imagine :wassup: give him a call or send him an email...

waiting on shipping estimate

low mount when I saw it as Summer nats in january!

why you selling it?

I'd disagree on the tuning aspect - different engines respond differently to tuning techniques and parameters. I'd suggest you go to someone who has proven results with the Supras, as they would be able to produce good results on your car. SK provided some useful advice about getting the tuner to spend time on the 500rpm increments, as well as the lower rev range. Cars are expensive - look after it with a good tune

PM me your e-mail address and I will send you the details and pic's

do a search on what the RB20/25, RB26 and Z32 AFM's flow. SK was kind enough to provide a list of the power available in single and twin configurations. From my understainding, the RB25's are fine if you are not going over 450RWKW.

Scooby - I have heard that the stock mani's are not too bad, but how many $$ for the hone? Might end up more worthwile getting something like the nice shinny ones I posted above.... DB - how much are you looking for on them, so that we all can get an idea???

I am amazed by the amount of EBC troubles people are having recently!!! I've helped (well, as least tried - must have worked, as I haven't had any more questions?!?!) 3 people recently regarding control issues with the Blitz SBC iD III. Now I have to say that I took my time with mine and applied the measure twice, cut once principal - meaning I double checked the intructions and my install to insure I had it correct and guess what - NO problems at all - works exactly as the packaging says is should !!!! Now I am no gun installer, but if anyone has a Blitz ID III and needs help, I've written detailed instructions - with pic's

as mentioned, just get a couple of zip lock sandwich bags from your supermarket then check the keys/remote in, seal then place into the second bag and seal....

mate, just get a stock GTR diff as they are a 1.5 way - they are all you need! sell off the 2way and pocket the difference

XR6T would absolutly hose an R34GTT 4door stock! abo bob, is your car stock or modded? did the ford guy really nail it? I've driven the series 2 and it is awesome for a local car I took it down to batemans bay and back from Canberra (via the clyde) and found it stuck to the road exceptionally for a 'big heavy car' . my only complant - the stock seats, they need to be changed to something more akin to GTR seats i.e Recaros or the like. stopped, turned and performed very well + it was a heap of fun. I found it gave great driver feedback, but I felt I was not sitting in it, rather on it - again, the seat... Have a look at the power they are pulling from these monsters with a modest amount of cash! I'd have one, but I would opt for the upspec brakes and get recaros in the front. Buy the ford

don't bother with the respray mate. just keep the $1000 in your pocket.

Nnnnnoooooooo.... $20 says you will regret it in 6 months and want a GTR! :wassup: as someone else in the thread said, most ppl would take an R32 GTR over an R33 GTST... only a matter of time now that the R34GTT becomes like the R33 GTST. Still, both good cars - I'm just not sold on the look of the GTT. (it's not too late!!!) There are lots of GTT importers, start with an edition of HPI....

Oscar - FU(K that for a joke mate - if they DECAT your car, I'd be calling the EPA/ ACT motor registry and finding out who to report it to! it is something like a 50K fine for an organisation that does that sh1t. Another option would be to call EVO up and say hey, you fix this sh1t, or I go to the EPA about you smashing the guts out of my cat!!! Sounds to me like they had some 'fun' in your car - don't take it laying down! As for the person seeking a good tuner - I've decide to take my GTR to Sydney, either CRD or HITMAN. see the forced induction threads.

the stuff I have bought so far has been well priced york, Yeah, I have seen the trust FP, but I alreay have a nice set that I don't want to get rid of. Hence the reason I'm looking for some short HKS style units - better than the factory units!

oops - yeah R34!! the R32 must have been a subconscious link to my R32 GTR!?!?!

I'm more inclined to believe information from the factory, rather than Motor, or Wheels.... no offence. An increase of 150% is just crazy, that would equate the R33 GTR to something like a limp noodle! The EVO 7 had a major structural change to the 6.5 (plus additional riviting, better casting, stronger materials) and even this was only a 50% gain in structural rigidity.....

Cheers for clarifying that Richard sounding like Matt is the tuner of choice...

where are the facts that the R34 GTR had 150% stiffer chassis?!?!?!? BS I'd go the R33 GTR over the R34GT T any day! (besides, Tassie is wet mate - you need the 4WD!!!)

Hey mate - there is only one way you are going to be able to import your own R32 and that is through one of the brokers who haev already bought cars and they are 'in stock'. DOTARS have effictivly stopped the 15yr old rule. I would suggest that you look locally at the R32's and the R33's that are available. Try www.carsales.com, I was looking there yesterday and there is 9 pages of cars :headspin: Follow these rules 1. get a manual, don't look for a cheap auto to convert ($$$) 2. Stick to your purchasing budget (most of the good manual R33's seemed to average about $17k+) 3. get an apexi PFC - they can be had for $1000 now!!! 4. get new injectors that suit your car, someone on the forums got reconditioned and hiflowed units fromthe states for ~$500. you might get new Sard units for $650 ~600cc 5. get a 3 or 3.5 inch exhaust from the turbo back (you can get these S/H from your friends on the forums). Note - most systems are from the cat back 6. get a decent cat (not a generic hi-flow), I use an Andretti magnaflow 3in (from the US). 7. get a HKS 2540, or GT-RS turbo (you might be lucky enough to find one S/H from here) 8. bosch 044 pump (again - seek the forums) 9. hybrid front mount intercooler (cheaper than the GTR unit) yawn - forums... 10. enjoy your easy 250rwkw on low boost.... If you are a smarty shopper, you may be able to pick up a modded example, but be VERY careful that it is modded right - get someone from a shop that knows skylines to check it out. The $150 - $200 you spend could save you a lot of time, worry and money. if you need to know anything else, PM me as I rarely get in this section. Cheers

My lower section is the same colour as the car, need to remoeber not to park too close to the gutters though!

3 stages of motors as I see it. 1) short is from sump to top of the block. 2) Long is sump to top of engine (rocker covers). 3) is a COMPLETE engine, which is from fan to flywheel and includeds injectors and manifolds (but not necessarily the turbo/s). If you have 3 RB30's Stirlo may be interested in one and Daniel (s13drifter) has the conversion kit for the RB26 head to the RB30 block into a gtr.