DAN00H

Hi Guys Yes, it is for 15 yr old cars; No, you don't need the restrictor in the neck of the fuel filler - just the sticker (where are you going to get leaded petrol these days!?!?!?!?); No, you don't need to change the seatbelts - discuss with your engineer; Yes, it was for a GTR - but will be similar for most Jap cars; Rims/Tyres - your engineer can supply you with a NEW tyre placard showing the rims / tyres as certified; I used the most expensive oils - redline; I rang heaps of places, but none could do it for close to the money that it cost me, aside from that - I was able to get a good knowledge of the car. Cheers

I'm not a big fan of the 'anti-boil' in corrosion inhibitor / anti-freeze (water will eat alloy heads without the inhibitor....). It is raising the boiling point of your system, but I'm not interested in running my engine hotter! As BBQ Chook said, water is actually better at dispersing heat. I did see some very interesting writings on this topic - it might be in the maintenance section.

some strange driving styles here.... I use what ever i feel like!, sometimes coast to lights in netural - what do you think happens in an AUTO!!! (some people said is bad to coast!!!) Don't forget it is possible to blow the engine on downshifts (rev limiters can't prevent over rev on downshift.....)

boiling point of water is 100 degrees!!! the reason car makers specify a hotter thermostat is to assist with polution control. I run the car as cool as practical.... I don't like the sound of what your car is doing.

if you use a steering lock (as I do), make sure you install it on the other side of the steering wheel - theives then can't pull it off towards then when they sit in the drivers seat. I also carry a length of high tensile chain and padlocks, if I am leaving my car for an extended period, I chain it around the rear sub frame and a steel post/telegraph pole. extreme I know, but try to tow that!!!

I have spoked to a few people about this, so decided I would maked a post of it (saves me retyping!!). Any q's let me know. 1st is a link to my old post (Note, a restrictor is not required in the fuel neck - only a sticker indicating 'unleaded fuel only') http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...15yr+old+import I had posted a detailed 'how to' thread - but can't find it, so here goes. remove the inside mirror covers, backing plate around the door handle/opener (you need to pull the lever while turning the backing plate to get it out), power window switch (you need to get a screw driver underneath it and prise it out & disconnect the wires), there should be a screw in the hole for removal & the plastic part that sits in the arm rest. remove the phillips screws in the bottom of the door (x4?), from memory, you should then be able to pull the door skin out from the bottom (it's held in with lugs as well), then lift it vertically out of the top of the door - place it somewhere safe so that it does not get damaged. Remove any items that are holding the plastic lining, then begin to carefull remove the plastic (it is stuck in place). Once you have done this, label all the wires proir to removing them (it may even pay to do a sketch to remind you where each terminal connects to the door) and remove the wires from the door. Remove the speaker. Removing the window glass - (NB, you may need to reconnect the window switch to get the right position) you will find two mounts at the base of the glass, losen these mounts (DON'T FULLY REMOVE YET!) at the top of the door you will find two rubber stoppers MARK THEIR POSITION, then remove, in the middle you will find a felt block - this has to be removed prior to the window - it can take a bit to get it out, so be careful. Once you have done this, you can then remove the window (place somewhere safe!!). Remove the window mechanism - two bolts at the top, two at the bottom (I think I took it out through the top) - your door should now be empty. Starting at the bottom, remove the nuts on the door hinge, then the top (make sure you/an assistant are holding the door!), place on a firm padded surface. Take the intrusion bar from ISASO (details in 1st post) and insert the end with the bolts towards the lock (fits behind the lock), take the second section and insert into the other end of the door - line up the two sections. Once you have them in (they only go in one way) VERY CAREFULLY CHECK WHERE TO DRILL - remember, measure twice, cut once. I installed the section behind the lock first - be VERY CAREFUL DRILLING THE HOLES, remove the door rubber and place a thick piece of metal on the inside of your door (this eliminates the chance of you drilling a ventilation hole on the outside of your door !!) then insert the bolts. if you have done it properly, the front and rear sections will line up! For the front section you will need 2 - 3 pop rivets (H/D), I actually drilled from the inside out, making sure the two pieces were sitting together! Once you have installed the rivets, you can then weld the two sections together (if you are not a good welder, place something on the inside of your door so it does not damage the paintwork on the outside). I used an a stick (arc) welder. make sure the weld is strong, then apply some paint / tar to stop any chance of rust. reinstall the door (is it the reversal of removal - best to have a second set of hands helping! I didn't, but I managed). run your wires through first, no real tricks to putting it back in - just use care - it can take some manipulation of the parts to get them back in! before you reinstall the door trim, ensure (a) the door shuts well, (B) the window closes properly (you may need to adjust the rubber stoppers at the top of the door) & © it looks good and you are happy with it. I left one of my trims off so that the engineer was able to inspect my work If you have a problem at any stage call me on 0413 377 742 or e-mail [email protected] and I will assist then sit back and say, well done - good job!

I did my rear window... not that easy as the demister is there. I used a raxor (very carefully!) then used soapy water to remove the goo. There is something else you can use, but I don't remember what it was....

I think the idea rocks, but no way you could drive with it on there!! I want one of those Merc's!!!

good that so many of us own our skyines - I too had a lot of money disappering into cars only to loose out at the end of the day (damn finance....) Buying the house is the way to go!!

Heres all the work I did for mine http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...15yr+old+import

I picked up a unit from AUTOBARN and fitted it myself. I didn't get the window lift option, or tilt option - but it had everything else you listed. I think it cost me ~$150.00 The insructions make it a pretty easy job (if you have a test pencil/multimeter). I did not like the tought of having someone else know how my alarm was wired and where all the wires went....

A friend of mine still owes $15k on his car AFTER selling it... he lost his job and could not make the payments.....

I guess it's not too bad if you have a car that you plan to keep for a long time - in that case it is a good means for obtaining the car you want. Where a lot of people fall into a trap is when the car they are paying off is worth less than what they owe....

I know a lot of people that have car loans these days.... What are peoples opinions on owing money on their ride - ie, car finance? I used to have a loan on one of my fords (years ago) and decided that sucked. IMHO the only good debt in regards to cars is the DETT!! (took me 5 years to be able to buy my GTR outright - while paying off my house). I drove round in an old Torana for a year while trying to clear my debts...

Nissan may be able to assist you - if you take the serial number in to them and explain that you lost the code, they might be able to look it up. I know that is what I did with my old ford. (failing that, you might want to try one of the guys in Japan - give them the serial number and see if they can get it for you) Good Luck DAN00H

Hi Sig Yeah - did all the work including intrusion bars myself. To be honest it is not a difficult job. I think you are looking at $1200 - $1800+ (for what I list below) for someone else to do the work. It cost me $30 for child restraints, $280 for the intrusion bars, $10 for high brake light & $450 for engineer cert (engineer provided an unleaded sticker : ) ). Check your PM.

you should be able to see a timing mark on the bottom crank pulley and a mark on the timing belt caseing indicating TDC, grab a timing light and it will show you. If you want to do it with the engine off, pull the cam wheel cover off and you will notice timing marks on the sprockets, align these with the marks on the belt - then check the crank pulley / timing caseing marks (should align). Otherwise, download a copy of the workshop manual and it will explain. Good luck.

Sig I did mine - I can guide you through the whole process and lend a hand if you want to save $$$. DAN00H

Yeah, I will post the results once it is all done. As he is not after something to win dyno comps, he's pretty keen to try them out. I think it will be pretty interesting on the burnout pad! He want's good 0 - 100km response, so this might work... I think it will be about 1 month away, but will try to get a dyno graph to accompany the results : )

Hi All I'm upgrading the turbos on my GTR, and I have a friend that wants to put them on a 5.0 V8. I'm wanting to get peoples thoughts (flow rates). He revs the v8 to 5000rpm max, wants low to mid range power, so says he wants the boost from ~1200 - 4200rpm. He intends to only run stock GTR boost (6 - 8psi) no I/C. His reason for thinking about the GTR turbos is that I have them and it will not cost him anything (he can reverse the factory manifolds and front mount the turbos, he has someone that can knock up a dump to the existing exh, make adapter flanges, pipes to / from the turbos etc, etc...). His parents own a ford dealership, so can do all the work after hours (tuning etc). Sounds a bit crazy I know (I told him that he should be using bigger turbos), but he is wanting to do it just for a bit of fun. Any thoughts?

I'd say the 'clunk' noise is more a subframe/mounting issue (as I have a clunk if I let the clutch out quickly between changes, which I have to find & fix), the ratchet sound is more than likely a uni joint.

Yeah fair call Buster, but the results speak for themselves. I was making an (un)educated guess based on the information we receive from forums, media and retail pricing. I'd love that engine in my GTR!!! (then again, I'd have to upgrade everything else to cope )

Interesting no-one has answered your original question!! This is a tough car, sounded great on the Dyno!! At a rough guess I would say the parts value is over 40K (just quickly in my head, not including the car). Very difficult to say what value anyone could place on the package - has the mumbo to runs some very low numbers on the strip. If someone had the cash and were after a car to decimate the opposion (and appreciated / was a Zed enthausist), then I'd imagine ~38K-55k??? hard to put a price on it, you need to look at the cost of building up something similar... What about you ljstt & Amaru?? Anyone else??

Guys Re side intrusion bars - give ISASO (on the web) a call, I got my bars for my R32 GTR from them and with freight to canberra it cost me $280. It is a very easy job to fit them your self, but you will need some basic tools and a welder. It is very easy to do - I did both my doors in about 3 1/2 - 4 hours (having no idea where to start!!) do a search on 15 yr old compliance (or something like that) and you will find a detailed thread I made. enjoy.

PM Sent!