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Bump Sorry BundyBear I have been away. Contact via message or call is the best to get me. Thanks

R35 front bake pads, r33 splitfire s2, Z32 Bosch AFM Hi Guys, Have the following parts for sale 1. New R35 EBC formula front pads - $400 2. R33 gtst stock Ingition coils series 2 - $100 (still working fine - 20PSI) 3. R33 Gtst S2 splitfire ignition coils About 5000Km - $400 4. Z32 Bosch AFM New in the box - $250 Contact me via message or text me on 0458221468 Dennis

Hi Guys, Have the following parts for sale 1. New R35 EBC formula front pads - $400 2. R33 gtst stock Ingition coils series 2 - $100 (still working fine - 20PSI) 3. R33 Gtst S2 splitfire ignition coils About 5000Km - $450 4. Z32 Bosch AFM New in the box - $250 Contact me via message or text me on 0458221468 Dennis

Still here guys.

pre-xmas bump

bump

R34liner - I was told that the r34 is the same as r32/33 except you will need to redrill the holes on the bracket to 14mm. Can someone please confirm on this?

Front kit only. Custom made CNC by an engineering workshop in Wetherill Park which cost $1k. My mate has the brand new rear callipers to match as well, however he didn't get the adaptor made. The rear adaptor bracket will cost about $600 to make. You can have the rear callipers for $1100 if required.

Hi All, I have the brand new kit from Gtr35 to bolt straight up gtr32 & gtr33 for sale. You will need the new brake line to suit. 1. gtr35 Brembos never used, only test fit to ensure that they fit R32. There is a little scratch mark from handling to the testing piece- see picture below. Also the nipple plastic cover broke off which only be dispose piece and not require - see picture. 2. 380mm DBA 2-pieces 5000 series 3. EBC sport formula pads 4. Nissan genuine 4 x pins and 2 x clips. Note 1 pin and 1 clip were opened to test fit only. 5. CNC bracket to suit R32&r33 You will need a minimum 18" rim TED37s or LMGT4 to clear, otherwise 19" rims will be required. All up I'm looking for $6000 ONO to help me recover my cost. Prefer to be pickup, that way you can inspect the items. let me know if you want more pictures. Location - Silverwater (working days) or Liverpool (weekends) Contact - Dennis (0458 221 468).

it's not the sparkplug because it is firing normal at 27psi with 0.5mm gap stock harness. have already changed 2 sets of plugs previously. Definately the HKS twin power harness. Does anyone know where i can get the harness fix? Thanks

Paul - I'm running the splitfire now but with 0.5mm gap with no problem if running 0.6mm i will get miss fire. With the hks i can run 1mm gap with no problem. Well i will give up if it die on me again. Now i have 2 twin power with problem harness. The harness to operating but when running more boost it won't work. It acts like stock harness. Thanks

Sinista32 - have already spoken to the supplier and i was told it has been discontinued. Kitto - The coils are fine as i have been running it now with 0.5mm gap to be able to run at high boost. with the twin power i'm actually running with 1mm gap and it's fine untill the twin power not firing at high boost. GTSBoy - the harness itself also have circiut boards, to each plug.

Hi guys & girls My twin power ignition just died recently. I than bought the twin power unit without the harness thinking it was my unit that fried. However, when my new unit has arrived a few days ago and plugged up and I still get the miss fire. This makes me thinking the harness itself. Does anyone know where I can source a HKS twin power harness for r33 gtst - part number 4399-SN004? Thanks

what you are saying is that it will learn itself? My old hks evc used to do that, where it leak the characteristic of the pressure/turbo. my old hks evc3 was pretty good on bringing the boost up with mimimal spike and hold boost to redline if turbo can support. sounds promising! So i will have to do a few 3rd or 4th gear run?

Trent - I have data logit. Please let me know those tricks I used to run it 0.9 bars preload with the hks evc3, now i have increased the preload to 1.1bar but it seem to didn't do much! I will relocate the vac source. Thanks

Hi all, Car - r33gtst just rebuilt and run in. Just upgrade my hks evc 3 boost controller to pfc boost control kit. However, it seems like i can't get it to run high boost eg. 1.5 to 1.8bar steadily. With the old HKS it held at 26 and dropped to 24psi to redline. With the pfc unit when set to 1.2bar with 36 duty cycle, i got spike d to 1.28bar and then dropped back to 1.15bars to redline, which is not too bad. Then set to 1.5bar with 56duty cycle, i got 1.7bars and dropped back to 1.3bars. If i tried to increasethe cycle it will just spike even higher and still can't get to 1.5bars. For your information, the wiring from the solenoid (pink and brown) are connected to the wires (white and black) that wired to the stock solenoid. Is it correct? The MAP sensor with 3 pins plug is plugged to the PFC, while the plenum pressure is Tee from one of the vaccum hose (larger one) to the black canister (just in front of the stock air box. Any suggestion would be appreciated.

thanks Trent, will check it tonight. Just a thought, why is it just doing it now and not intially for a few hundreds km? Tried this morning again, have also noticed that as long as it is on boost (8psi) half throttle it also have the same problem!

Hi Guys & girls, need all your helps please. car: r33 gtst Car has just rebuilt and run in. Have started to tune and it was running fine (7500rpm) with 25psi for a few hundreds km. Recently experiencing something like misfire which almost like hitting the rev limiter at about 6000rpm+ at 15psi or even at 12psi. Initially it was intermittent but now it is all the times. some of the parts are: new split fire copper plugs with 1.1mm gap running HKS twin power ignition PFC GTX3071r forge internal metal jack balancer June oil pumps etc. Things that i have eliminated: running 15psi 1.gap the plugs to 0.8 - problem still persisted 2.removed hks twin power and replaced with my stock harness - problem still persisted 3.Replace all split fire to stock coil packs - problem still persisted 4.Checked all vacuum hose - all good 5.fuel pump is ok. fuel pressure 44psi, and 54psi at idle, 60+psi when under load. 6.Datalogged the a:f ratio stays at 11.8. so injectors and pump should be ok? Since it is only happens from 6000rpm and not from 4500rpm, I believe it is electrical issues and not the typical misfire that many people experienced. Is it possible than the ECU ground not connected properly? Where about can i fine it? Should it be clamped to the cylinder block? All your helps would be appreciated.

actually the torque was 85ft-bls not NM. I will ask him later about the Ra thing. thanks

sorry double posted. yes, it was tigthened in stages, followed the Nissan manual. i personally don't think it is the HG faulty as you've said, This leaves the machining and tightening. Can anyone confirm the torque for the ARP head stud, hopefully they are under tightening, that ways i can just tightening it up to the required spec. Note the leaks is very little, even after puting about 14psi in the system.

Simon – what is the size of the studs? On ARP website, they recommend 62ft-bls (84Nm) for 10mm and 80ft-bls (108Nm). Hopefully under tightening is the cause. J. It is only leaking on the driver side HG/block. Used Nissan gaskets kits and Tomei head gasket. ARP main and head studs/bolts. Pretty sure it is not coming out of the inlet manifold. I can see the coolant between the head gasket and the bottom block, along the block. Is there any chance of faulty head gasket, block not machine properly?

Simon – what is the size of the studs? On ARP website, they recommend 62ft-bls (84Nm) for 10mm and 80ft-bls (108Nm). Hopefully under tightening is the cause. J. It is only leaking on the driver side HG/block. Jez – Used Nissan gaskets kits and Tomei head gasket. ARP main and head studs/bolts. Pretty sure it is not coming out of the inlet manifold. I can see the coolant between the head gasket and the bottom block, along the block. Is there any chance of faulty head gasket, block not machine properly?

Arp studs.

Guys, Just got my rebuilt engine back from my machanic mate. After put evrything together, I have noticed coolant leaking out between tomei head gasket and the bottom block, on the driver side. Spoken to the mechanic said that it could be the head gasket faulty. He told me that head studs were tighten to about 87Nm. Note that the block and head have all machined. Any idea why is it leaking even before any pressure? Thanks

That's what i thought, high rev with the power level, the rod just let go. like i said pistons are fine, not a scratch. Also i have allowed piston 1 and 6 with extra fuel (1% & 2% respectively). After running WMI for last few years, the pistons are all clean, no carbon build up what so ever. As entering the freeway, on 2nd gear on full throttle and went bang. I'm pretty sure i didn't hit the rev, it was more like about 5000rpm.